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I know this is an old thread, but relevant. I will be using JWA's 1950's coolant flush. I buy deionized filtered water for the flush as it has fewer minerals that may interfere with the coolant.
I know this is an old thread, but relevant. I will be using JWA's 1950's coolant flush. I buy deionized filtered water for the flush as it has fewer minerals that may interfere with the coolant.
What was once old is now new again!
Since this thread first appeared I've used Prestone's system flush---went a bit overboard I'm sure but its only money and time. It was during the summer so no chance of a straight water and flush solution freezing. First time I drove a few days, maybe 150 miles or so--drained the water/solution out repeated the whole process once again.
After the second round of flushing added just straight water for another 150 miles before refilling with the pre-diluted anti-freeze mixture. I've become a convert to that as it is a simple pour it in and you're done. Of course the 5.4 motors take 4+ gallons so this isn't a job you want to do frequently.
I drained the coolant and it was a little more than 4 gallons (16 quarts). Everything I read says the capacity is 29 + quarts. Is there that much coolant left in the system after draining the radiator?
I've heard its closer to 6 gallons but even when replacing the radiator I used right at 4 gallons. To my eye the block and radiator along with the hoses just couldn't contain almost 7.5 gallons---I could be wrong though.
I've heard its closer to 6 gallons but even when replacing the radiator I used right at 4 gallons. To my eye the block and radiator along with the hoses just couldn't contain almost 7.5 gallons---I could be wrong though.
4 gallons total capacity? I recall using 2 gallons of concentrated coolant and 2 gallons distilled water for my 6.0 diesel van.
Can I use the original Ford Green Coolant? Zerex has the same formula and it's on sale at Napa for $11. I think Ford Gold was put into 2002 and newer.
After reinstalling the thermostat housing without the thermostat, I noticed water leaking out. Do I need a gasket or sealant to prevent leaking while running the hot engine during flushing?
The thermostat is not Ford. Is it standard practice to replace after flushing the coolant?
4 gallons total capacity? I recall using 2 gallons of concentrated coolant and 2 gallons distilled water for my 6.0 diesel van.
I can't speak for or to diesel engines in any regard---not sure what the coolant capacity is for that system.
Originally Posted by coolfeet
Can I use the original Ford Green Coolant? Zerex has the same formula and it's on sale at Napa for $11. I think Ford Gold was put into 2002 and newer.
Not sure what year engine you have but the green stuff should be fine---read the package label for their suggestions on year compatibility.
Originally Posted by coolfeet
After reinstalling the thermostat housing without the thermostat, I noticed water leaking out. Do I need a gasket or sealant to prevent leaking while running the hot engine during flushing?
The thermostat is not Ford. Is it standard practice to replace after flushing the coolant?
I've run my own 5.4's without a t'stat installed without leaking but if your's does it wouldn't hurt to use a bit of RTV temporarily. I don't recall there being a gasket for the t'stat, just the o-ring seal mounted on the t'stat.
Replacing the t'stat is probably optional if the existing part is working. Its okay to replace it while the system is apart---they're like $11 or less IIRC.
The thermostat was not Ford and felt weak compared with the new Ford T-stat that I bought on Amazon for about $10. I have a half gallon of FleetGuard Restore alkaline coolant system flush to clean the cooling system. I flushed the system with the garden hose on low and the radiator valve opened until it flowed clean.
I bought 4 gallons of Peak Original Green at Napa for $11 a gallon and returned the Peak E05 (Ford Gold). The alternator died midway through the flush ceasing the operation!
. The alternator died midway through the flush ceasing the operation!
Man that sucks----the upside is you're already working in that general area so what's a few more bolts and bucks huh?
I removed my '05's 5.4 alternator for better access to the galley---it was nearly full of oil from a ruptured accumulator mounted just in front of and above the alternator. That area is now nearly spotless and life can go on. For all the alternators I've removed these Ford 5.4's are just plain dirt simple. This did give me one more chance learning how to best use my Gear Wrench Serpentine belt tool--that thing is so useful and beats releasing belt tension any other way.
Replacing the t'stat in your case sounds prudent. If you suspect its bad or its simply peace of mind its perfectly replacing with a Motorcraft or other good brand.
I bought a GearWrench serpentine belt removal tool last year and I baffled 2 mechanics by telling them I removed the serpentine in the diesel van in under 5 minutes. It helped having 1 of the fan shroud bolts conveniently missing making room for the tool!
i am removing the alternator Sunday morning and will bring to O’Reilleys for testing.
With all all the open space I will install sparks plugs while waiting for the new alternator to arrive.
When I inspected the van before purchasing I was skeptical about the after market alternator and considered replacing for peace of mind.
The radiator installed in 10 minutes. Why did I ever own a diesel? Everything takes days in a diesel.
No more $150 oil changes. Heck I can take vehicle to ford for oil changes and it will still be less!
Given your experience with diesel engines these gassers will seem like child's play!
That's exactly what I told my wife. I removed the alternator this morning. It took a few "minutes" longer than expected because I backed the bolt too far with my Milwaukee electric wretch causing the ratchet to get stuck between the bolt and fan! Sometimes electric tools are not advised. This is one of those cases. While waiting for Oreilleys to open, I changed the oil in my Subaru. I mistook the transmission drain plug for the oil drain plug. I wondered "why is this so tight?". Good thing I realized my mistake!
I have too many car projects going and need to slow my roll.
I did the same bolt trapped thing myself in that exact same situation. I was using a ratcheting box end, the type that requires the entire wrench being flipped over to reverse its direction. That'll never happen again but that first time out is quite the shock.
My Milwaukee M12 ratcheting tools tend to be bulky enough that it functions as a warning backing off a bolt might be an issue---so far knock on wood I've not been trapped.
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