HELP Rumble strip noise
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Freshman User
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HELP Rumble strip noise
Have a 2000 ford excursion 4wheel drive v10 not a diesel and only after you drive for a while and hit a bump does it make this rumble strip noise only last for 30 seconds and hit another bump it stops then another starts again. We've replaced the wheel bearing, ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar bushings. Still got the same problem. Desperate for some help ):
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
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Mine had this exact same issue, both the front wheel bearings were destroyed.
Also pulled the hubs off to inspect them and they too were in serious need of grease. Ended up replacing them too they were so far gone.
Also pulled the hubs off to inspect them and they too were in serious need of grease. Ended up replacing them too they were so far gone.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
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The cheap replacements don't have a phenomenal life span, especially if you don't keep on up the maintenance such as greasing the hubs. How do the front half shaft u-joints look? They can cause the noise as well if they've never been greased or replaced.
Focus on components that move and spin, not trying to be a dick but replacing the TRE's and ball joints was pointless unless they were due anyway. But they would in no way cause a noise of this nature.
Focus on components that move and spin, not trying to be a dick but replacing the TRE's and ball joints was pointless unless they were due anyway. But they would in no way cause a noise of this nature.
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Checked bearing so I would assume the hub would still be okay..? Ujoints was my guess but they look fine. And no problem every little bit
helps. Spent $300 just throwing money at it lately.
helps. Spent $300 just throwing money at it lately.
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Logistics Pro
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Hub won't check out the same way as the wheel bearing. Should really pull it off and inspect it and the stub shaft for excessive wear and proper lubrication.
I'm guessing you just jacked up the front end and checked for play? Doesn't necessarily mean it's in good shape, just a good indication. Same as with the hubs... Pull em and actually look at them.
U-joints shouldn't have even a tiny bit of play in them, if they do - change em.
I'm guessing you just jacked up the front end and checked for play? Doesn't necessarily mean it's in good shape, just a good indication. Same as with the hubs... Pull em and actually look at them.
U-joints shouldn't have even a tiny bit of play in them, if they do - change em.
Logistics Pro
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As for greasing everything, if you haven't been doing so every few months it's something you really need to get in the habit of.
U-joints are easy enough to check, grab both the axle shaft and the stub shaft on either side and see if you can twist. Watch the yoke ears closely when doing to.
If you don't have zerk fittings on the u-joint caps, they're sealed units and cannot be serviced and must be replaced if worn.
U-joints are easy enough to check, grab both the axle shaft and the stub shaft on either side and see if you can twist. Watch the yoke ears closely when doing to.
If you don't have zerk fittings on the u-joint caps, they're sealed units and cannot be serviced and must be replaced if worn.
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 727
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From: Seaside NJ
If the hubs are locking and unlocking properly then it most likely won't be an axle ujoint since they won't turn unless 4x4 is engaged so there shouldn't be a vibe coming from the axle ujoints unless you're unknowingly rolling around in 4x4. By all means check them anyway but I think Matt is onto something with the bearings