I'm sure that one of the well-informed members of FTE knows why, in my '66 there's a copper/brass contact where the steering column bolts to the rag joint. I suppose it's a ground. Is it necessary for the horn to work, or is it a common ground for all the steering column wiring to function? More importantly, when I change my steering column to a later tilt column...if I go with a universal joint coupler, will that take the place of this metal contact?? I'm not sure at this point, if I'll keep the rag joint or change to another type of connection. Thanks to all!

 

I replaced the rag joint in my 73 with a steel u-joint and every thing still works horn ect. I never did like rag joints , look dangerous to me and i always replace them with a good U-joint i can trust . Gives it a cleaner look too and the feel is good , no bad vibes up though the column like a few people told me i would get, they were wrong. Good luck .__JIM__

 

Jim was it a bolt on or weld on u joint you replaced the rag joint with? Got a link to the joint you used?

 

When I put the power steering box and steering column in my truck I didn't have the metal connector and everything worked but the horn. After I put a metal connector in the horn worked so I would say its for the horn.

 

I don't remember for sure but i believe it was "Borgeson" or some thing like that I have used them from a number of places . Just do a search on line for "steering u-joints" and you should come up with a few . Look in speedway. Jegs , Summit, they all carry them. You will need to check and see how your rag joint is attached. Mine on the 73 had a 3/4" 36 spline shaft on the steering column and the stub that goes in to the gear box. I don't trust my welding enough to be welding on steering components . On my street rod with R & P steering it is smaller on the rack with 3/4 splined on the custom column. From there i used whats called " Square D "joint ends and solid square D shafting cut to size i needed. Like i said check what you have and look at some of the supplies to find what you need. They are easy to do that way and look good.



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Thanks for your input. I'm leaning towards the U-joint due to the steering column changes. I think it will afford me more options to column length. The supplier Jim is referring to, is Borgeson. They have a really nice website with a lot of information on the different coupling options. Seems reasonable that the rag joint, being rubber would need something metal in it for continuous ground, although I would expect that the coupling bolts would serve this purpose, as well as the column mount to the dash??

 

Hello Guys
I just converted my 65 F-100 to a Ford (Saginaw) PS box. Found all the proper fitting Ford parts. I have a shorter column that fits however the end where the rag joint connects at the bottom of the column was cut off. I have a longer shaft that I could cut and weld the rag joint end on, however the U-Joint sounds like a safer and better way to go.

Instead of welding that part on could I have the end have splines or flat surfaces machined on the shaft end? I have never used U-Joints before on steering. I assume one end will match the splines on the PS box and I don't know how the column end is configured.

I am looking at a catalog from Sacramento Vintage Ford and they list the Borgeson steering joints, however there are a bunch. There are ones listed for various vehicles and some they call the Double D.

If you could offer some input that would be greatly appreciated.

 

Larry:
If you check out the Borgeson website, it answers some of your questions. They make U-joints with differing spline counts. Also they combine spline/D-shaft U-joints. You can make yours into a "D" or double-d by grinding a flat on the shaft. Just check the diameter spec's of the joint.

 

That makes more sense now. I have the short column with the end cut off where the rag joint connection was pressed on by the factory. Plenty of shaft left. I just grind a flat spot on each side of the shaft and attach the U-joint with set screws. That will be safe enough? Sounds like the way I should go.

Thanks for the info, I'll let you know how it works...

 

Double Ds work good and you can flatten 2 sides of a round shaft to fit, not easy but can be done. I like using 'Double D' because i can buy the shafting in different sizes up to 36" and cut it to fit. With shafting that has splines on it i have to get them closer to what i need as they can't be cut off very much. On my street rod i used three U-joints , two 'Double D ' shafts and one bearing support to hold things in place . That was to get around the exhaust manifold and connect to the R-P steering.

 

Here is a photo of my column, it is the short one for the Ford Saginaw unit. someone cut off the rag joint connection so I think this will work with the DD U-Joint, it's a 3/4" shaft. I'll take the shaft over to the machine shop and have some flats milled in that way I know they will be right on. I don't want to tackle that with a file or grinder.

 

That will work , they recommend you drill a dimple in the shaft for the lock bolts to go in for more security. I have never done it with no problems but it is probably better that way. I have been using them for about 25 years on different vehicals , hot rods most of the time.





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