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converting my 86 F150 5.8 to EFI using ford racing harness and stang stuff and want to delete egr(hopefully temporary) just till truck gets running to eliminate possibility of engine light coming on(being a new system).It needs
different headers etc to hookup tube. have egr position sensor plugged in and pin held in half way just laying on intake (supposedly correct way ?) do i just use a block off plate or does the system still need to see vacuum from egr valve?
If you are using the Ford EEC and the EGR doesn't move (sensor at top tells EEC what position it is in) when the EEC "tests it" at start up , it will set a code and go into limp mode. Then you have no timing advance and air/fuel ratio is fixed.
Computer controlled vehicles are real tough to modify.
The EGR not working is not that serious, at least not in my experience. Some trucks I have worked on don't even turn the light on, even though it does set a EGR code.
From what I have read, the computer functions normally in all modes with the EGR blocked off except the curve for the timing is set more conservatively. They expect it to ping some when it's not working, so that's the reason why. Otherwise, everything else is supposed to work.
My little 86 ranger has the EGR blocked, mainly because the pressure sensor was broken, and I don't feel like spending the money to fix it. It runs pretty good, and I was playing around with the initial timing to try and compensate for the more lazy timing the EGR code will make it use.
And yes, they have got you on trying to fake it, though some people have rigged a relay to fake it out. The computer tells the EGR to open, and then it looks at the position sensor to see if it really moved. If it doesn't then it sets the code. Some people have disconnected the solenoid, hooked a relay in it's place, and then put a certain value resistor on the contacts of the relay to "fool" the computer.
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