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...and the Y pipe. I don't have the 'pinched off' version, but that crazy 180 degree turn off of the driver side makes me think the new Y pipe will make the exhaust a little less restrictive.
Couldn't for the life of me get the PCM cover off to read the code - the idiot alarm installer shoved everything above and around the PCM (so getting a grip without yanking out alarm wiring is a concern) and with the bolts removed, it would only angle out about 3mm and would only side back about 3mm...any more force and I was worried I'd break something.
Mike said no worries, I can hook it up, get the code from the X4 then email him the numbers and he can extrapolate the strategy code from that.
Can't wait to see how this all works out.
Along with the tuner I picked up an air horn, tank, compressor and solenoid. Think I'm gonna mirror the 'piano hinge' install someone else did to make access and service easier. May upgrade the tank/compressor in the future, but for now I just need the horns. The switch was smaller than I thought, but I think that will actually be a benefit in mounting it:
Finally, picked up 4 new grille strobes (6 emitter instead of 4) and a new traffic advisor for the rear.
Now I gotta find some time to put all this stuff together. I'll add pics as I'm going along.
When you see an emergency vehicle on the side of the road or in a lane of traffic and that amber bar that lights up from right to left, left to right, center out or out to center - telling drivers what they should do...that's a traffic advisor.
I have one now mounted along the top roof that shines through the rear glass. For some reason one segment now suddenly stays on all the time - like the circuit board that controls it has a short in it.
Had to get a new one to replace it...will probably recycle the old light heads inside the old one if I can't fix the steady-on segment.
Still waiting on the grille LEDs, the rest has arrived. I also somehow killed my Kenwood Excelon with my dead battery fiasco over the weekend. Checked the fuses at the panel and on the back of the stereo - no power. Ordered a replacement and a new insert with pocket.
I have in my hands the horn, tank/compressor, switch and solenoid, and the rear traffic advisor. I have a first aid gig on Saturday, so I'm hoping on Sunday I can get the rear traffic advisor installed. I'll probably crawl under and start figuring out locations for the horn and tank/compressor. Trying to figure out how to mirror the 'piano hinge' install I saw but without removing the step mount...maybe cut out a notch and cut the piano hinge in half to work around it.
I'm also working on re-making my rear tool drawer. Original one was wood, but I found through YouTube videos that in Australia and NewZealand they make these plastic connectors you can use to tie in square 1" aluminum tubing. Guys over there are making some pretty elaborate drawer units with nothing more than 90degree chop saws and hand-rivet guns. I laid out a design that will hopefully have some decent weight load...
Frame only, drawers in play. The top section can be extended if needed...need to pull my old box out and get some better measurements.
Bottom frame:
...that top 5" section (4" + 1" cross rails) could be extended out further or taken completely off. I have an inverter, amps and a cap/batt that I'll mount on a wood platform screwed to that frame. Keeping it narrower than you might think to try to make it easy to get the spare tire out (I had a flat with my current box and it SUCKED - having to unload most of the gear to be able to tilt the tire down.
Might need to add additional cross members to tie in to the 3rd row seat mounts.
Top Frame:
...hoping the cross members are spaced properly to support a decent load.
Side Frame:
...with drawer. Found some 4' slides on line that lock closed...might also use a handle with integrated lock.
Trying to find out the laws in CA regarding weapon storage...someone mentioned there might be an issue with storing a weapon locked in a box that's "part of the truck". Thinking of adding a section to one of the drawers and making that a spot to lock a rifle in while traveling to/from the range or wherever. Worried that something like a Pelican rifle case would be easy to spot and tempting.
Update:
I ordered a single "L" joint from Steven Engineering (it arrived on Sunday) and I took it over to my local Lowes to see how it fits.
There are apparently two thicknesses of the 1" square tube aluminum that they carry over at Lowe. The thicker of the two (not listed on the sticker of course) is a perfect fit for those types of joints. At my local store it was something like $12.12 for a 3' section...the 8' section was the thin version (figures).
They also fit into the steel version, but again, not as tightly as the aluminum, so if you want to use these on steel sections you may need a small shim before you screw/rivet them together.
Now that I've confirmed fitment, time to start ordering the connectors and metal. Thinking I'll use thin ply for the top, side and back skins and for the drawer floors/sides/backs. Will probably use diamond plate aluminum for the drawer faces.
Anyone have a good source for drawer slides upwards of 40" long? Preferably with locks but not required.
Anyone have a good source for drawer slides upwards of 40" long? Preferably with locks but not required.
Sorry, I don't have a source for slides, but I did come across this a little while back. They come in two different depths, depending upon if you are running the third row or not. Not sure if that are something you could use, but I figured I would share.
Sorry, I don't have a source for slides, but I did come across this a little while back. They come in two different depths, depending upon if you are running the third row or not. Not sure if that are something you could use, but I figured I would share.
I kind of like those, but I'm worried on some aspects:
1. No ball bearing slides...so what will happen after a year or so of driving and summer heat - will the plastic become brittle and the drawers start to become difficult to pull out?
2. Plastic - item 1 above, but also how much weight can they hold? I'd like to be able to still house my breaching tools, hand tools, inspection cameras and safety gear in the drawers...summer heat makes plastic more flexible - will they scrape the bottom with all of the weight in the drawers?
3. Top strength - I throw big Pelican cases full of tac radios and other gear on top of my current box...will it flex under that much weight?
4. Security...a metal drawer system will be much harder to break into than a plastic one.
If the price were less on the deeper half-width ones it might make sense, but for a couple hundred more (after shipping) I could make metal ones that can hold more weight and will last a lot longer. I'd be pi$$ed if I dropped that much on the plastic ones to have one break and just come right back and have to make metal ones later.
I'm hoping I can make these aluminum ones for cheaper than the pre-fab ones you see at Northern Tool and other sites...the shipping kills you on those, and with this type of construction I could put the plans out there and guys can just tweak them to make it custom for their needs.
For those keeping score...per Amazon, I've been able to find all of the 1" x 1" aluminum (48" lengths) and all of the angle connectors (68 in all) for $404.71 (before shipping). A set of "KV 8900 Series Full Extension Precision Ball Bearing Slides 40" 500# Class (Set)" came in at 158.95 for a pair, so the running total before shipping is $561.06.
All that's needed in addition to this is the wood or metal sheeting that makes up the outside of the unit, and bolts/nuts/screws to put it all together and secure it to the floor of the truck.
Amazon estimates $65.69 in shipping and another $26.19 in tax, so all told $652.94 in structure and slides.
The plastic ones mentioned above (2 king size ones) come to 619.98. A metal JOBOX, Pack Rat or similar with one drawer but non-adjustable dividers comes to over $1000...a BetterBuilt drawer (you'd need two) comes to $499.99 per (before shipping).
All told, I think this would be tougher than the plastic option but cheaper than the common metal ones available.
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