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77&79F250 09-27-2014 12:37 AM

Ford truck information and then some....
Ok so here is the deal FTE folks, I am going to dump all the information, tips & tricks/troubleshooting ideas and all other Ford truck related stuff in one thread.
I have accumulated a lot of over the years and I want to say a big “Thank you” to mikeo0o0o0 , Number Dummy and Dennis AKA mil1ion.
In all actuality I only have a few from him, but want to thank him and the many others that have contributed either a little or alot like earthquake68, ranger429, 75F350.

I am thankful I have a job that lets me travel the world, but sometimes I have a lot of free time on my hands, especially on weekends.
I hate being away from my trucks, and to help pass the time I focus on things I like. That being 73-79 Ford trucks and helping 73-79 Ford truck owners.
FTE is a great enabler for this, yea I can’t wrench bend on my trucks from where I am at, but I can FTE it for sure.

I simply copy and paste in a JPEG format the diagrams and the PDF like it is, and save it in a picture folder on my computer, the word stuff is saved in a Doc folder. (hint hint)
That way it’s always on my computer, internet or not.

Now I know it’s not all 110% perfect, but I have read, reread, tried, applied and used pretty much all of it, in one way or the other.
If it’s wrong or you think its BS, then don’t read the rest of it, try it, or copy it, it’s that simple.
A lot of the sequences like front clip removal, gas tank drop…are just what works for me.
The diagrams work for a # of things, like disassemble of certain items, and to get you going in the right direction come time to ask mikeo0o0o0 or ND “Where is X part”, just reference the diagram part #.

Again, thanks to all the FTE members that have given their input. And always remember ND said “The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.”

Edit: Sorry a lot of the wording and pics do NOT match up. I too expect after reading something, that the pic is right there supporting the explanation. But as you go thru it and copy stuff and build your tech library, just put it in individual sections or folders, like eng, trans, body, a/c ect... I have it all in one folder and knew where things are. Also if I blew up your phone with FTE thread updates sorry. And I want to apologize for the picture size's too, I work on Ford trucks and helicopters, not computers. lol I think this might get a sticky and maybe some IT guru can work it over to be more user friendly?

77&79F250 09-27-2014 12:40 AM

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Do you see the blue line with User CP, Albums, FAQ? See the SEARCH on that line?
It has a drop down search menu arrow, go to the "Advanced Search" option, top left side (search block) type in there what you are looking for and then go to the lower right column and highlight 73-79 forum. Select it and then you will have a detailed search just in the 73-79 forums.
Ford 351M and 400 fuel pumps put out about 7 psi if "spot on".
Holley and Motorcraft Carbs can take in excess of 7 psi due to longer float arms with large floats. Carter AFB & AVS & Edelbrock carbs have shorter float arms which is in part why they are more compact, and smaller floats and they are less tolerant of higher fuel pressures, 6 psi is the max that Edelbrock recommends for their carbs which are copies of the Carter carbs. They recommend that a max pressure used at 5.5 psi. High fuel pressure does not mean more power as many cars we considered as muscle cars used 4-6 psi.

You likely need a decent Fuel Pressure Regulator like Holley's # 12-803 and use a fuel pressure tester in a tee between the carb and FPR to set pressure at 5.5 max. Do not waste money on a Spectre or Mr Gasket FPR. Once set you can remove the tee and tester.
SD spring lift info
I got a set of SD springs from the junk yard and added my bottom stock leaf to them. Had to get me 4" or so. Add-a-leafs will ride terrible. For the rear, just flip the shackle, that will net you around 3" and will sit the truck a little more level. I spent $45 a spring pack for the SD springs, so I had a 4" lift under $100. Oh, I suggest making some front shackles 1-2" longer than stock, as the SD are around 1" longer, so they could bottom out on the frame. All in all the whole setup should get you 3-5" and a level truck. If the front sits too high you could also get F-350 rear blocks, they are 4" instead of the 2" that are in F-150 and F-250
In case you want to replace the alternator wiring harness, that's the one that goes from the alternator to the regulator.
Harness, alternator wiring
Fits 78 f100-350 w/ amp and oil press. gauges all engines and 70 amp Ford alternator
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 40 (800) 543-4959

77&79F250 09-27-2014 12:42 AM

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Steering box out put seals leaking ?

It’s done before with the box on the bench, but I think it can be done on vehicle?
Remove the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft (sector shaft), then there's a snap ring that needs to be removed. Once that's out of the way there is a washer, then a seal, then another washer and another seal.
Remove the first washer exposing the first seal. Take a sharp center punch and pierce the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out. You can do two screws 180 degrees apart too.
Once the first seal is out, remove the second washer and repeat the process. (you can also try just removing the snap ring, (after the pitman arm is off) turn the wheel to the left and start the engine, it will usually blow the whole thing out, both seals and spacers but you better have a huge drain tray under it, then reassemble.)
To replace the seals, apply a thin coating of grease to the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of sealer to the outside diameter of the seal (I like No. 2 Permatex non-hardening).
Slide the seal over the shaft and take a deep socket that’s just slightly smaller than the OD of the seal and drive the seal in until it seats. Replace the washer then the next seal, washer then snap ring.
Reinstall the pitman arm, hook up the steering linkage and that's it.
If you don't have a socket that's deep enough you can use a piece of pipe or tubing too.
The killer on these is getting everything centered. With the exception of the sector shaft Ford basically only sold the internals as an assembly.

The input shaft (F3AZ-3E502-A) & sector shaft (D7AZ-3E501-A) seal kits are available from Ford and auto parts stores.
Seal kit, steering gear sector shaft
Parts list #64, With gear ID SPA-AB, AJ, AN, BN, BS, BX, CC, CN
Basically this covers all 73-79 2WD F100-350 w/power steering
D7AZ-3E501-A .. Sector Shaft Seal Kit
Last dealer cost $29.41 List $43.71
So try the dealership OR ……
Parts International, Farmers Branch, TX has 50 (972) 241-8730
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 19 (800) 543-4959
Manderbach Ford, Temple, PA has 5 (610) 929-3683
Freese Motor Inc., Monticello, IA has 4 (319) 465-3541
Herb Chambers Ford, Westboro, MA has 2 (508) 366-8311

Steering box input seal…piece of cake 30 minutes 78 F250. Try dealership OR……Autozone part # 8520 $8.99 in stock. Ford part # F3AZ-3E502-A Input Shaft Seal Kit…
undo bolt at rag joint, remove plastic cover on steering column (in cab) loosen steering column bolts (2 bolts to dash) pull up on column and disconnect rag joint from steering box
drill small hole in dust seal on steering box & screw a screw in and remove seal remove snap ring, drill hole in seal remove with screw. Replace seal, snap ring, dust seal and reconnect steering column.

77&79F250 09-27-2014 12:45 AM

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The locking hood latch used on 1973/79 F100/350's & 1978/79 Bronco's is the same ... The locking hood cable is the same as 1975/80 Ford Granada/Mercury Monarch
Turn signal issues?
First you need to remove the steering wheel, then the turn signal switch. Drive the roll pin out of the gear shift and pull it out. There is some spring pressure to work against to get the shifter out. Then, underneath the turn signal switch are two nuts. Try loosening these first then remove the casting. These are what "clamps" the collar in place. If you take the nuts all the way off the little square head bolts might fall into the steering column and can be a real pain to retrieve. Once all that's out of the way, you can pull the shift collar off. To remove the turn signal switch, you need to remove the phillips head screws that hold the switch in place. Unplug the switch harness under the dash. Look at the harness plug, then look at the terminals, there are little plastic fingers that lock them in place. Depress the fingers and pull the wires out of the plug. Be sure to make a chart of where the wires go. Once the plug is removed, tie a string around the wires and pull the switch out all the way. The string will make getting the wires back through easier. The shift collar just pulls off and the new one pushes on. After that reassemble in reverse order.
To use H1 rims on a Ford without recentering them. If you want to use them in a stock form, then you need a 76" wms. Stock single wheel rears are in the 67" range. So basically if you have a 60 front you need the dual wheel hubs. If you’ve got a 44 then get the front drw spacers from a 88-up chevy or 94-up dodge. For the rear get a dual wheel rearend from a pickup. Can’t be from a cab and chassis truck. Those have a 72" wms. Then you can get a 2" spacer. Another option is if you can find a drw 14b or d70 hd from a chevy you can swap the drw hubs for the srw hubs and you’d be set. Have to figure out brakes but with a disc swap it’s not hard.

77&79F250 09-27-2014 12:47 AM

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The 351C/M/400 takes a special thermostat with a kind of collar around it. A 192-5F thermostat is the one to use. Use only the Cooper-Robertshaw thermostat. This has been discussed many times in the 335 series engine forum.
Where to buy a 335 Series thermostat
3 options:
-Find a dealer with a RT-139 still in stock.
-Robert Shaw 333-180
-Napa THM 297 After calling a local Ford dealer, I was able to track down a dealer that has the RT-139.
It’s a dealer in Kansas but they will ship it to you.
Bob Allen Ford 1(800)676-0675
Ignition modules, 74 (black grommet) and 75 (green grommet) are year specific and will not interchange. 76 to 79 (blue grommet) are interchangeable.
Ignition modules: 1974 is 1974 ONLY / 1975 is 1975 ONLY.
Blue module introduced in 1976 was used well into the 1990's. 1973-1974 ?? D4AZ-12A199-C
Green Sales in OH.
Collectors Auto Supply in WA.
Haven Ford in KS.
Klimesh Motor Sales in IA.
Bob Allen Ford in KS.
Freese Motor Inc in IA.
Wesley Obsolete Parts in KY.
Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC.
The 400 uses a 12" clutch and the 351m uses a 11"
D7TZ-6375-D .. 400 Flywheel-Use with 12" clutch.
D7TZ-6375-E .. 351M Flywheel-Use with 11" clutch.
Bleed p/s the FORD way and it works every time!!!
1- Hook everything up
2- Fill with fluid
3- Jack up front of truck off of ground (Both front wheels)
4- Disconnect or Disable coil (So Truck CANNOT start)
5- Turn Steering wheel lock to lock about 5 to 10 times
6- Top off Fluid
7- Repeat Step 5
8- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
9- Crank engine over (Ignition Disabled) and turn steering lock to lock 5 to 10 times
10- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
11- Repeat Step 9
12- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
13- Enable Ignition
14- Start Truck and turn Lock to Lock 5-10 times
15- Turn off Truck
16- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
17- Repeat Step 14
18- Repeat Step 15
19- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
20- Let Truck Down off of Jacks or jack Stands
21- Repeat Step 14
22- Steering should work just fine, have all the air bled out and have a quiet pump to boot!!!

77&79F250 09-27-2014 12:52 AM

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NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts Warranty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19.
Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off.
NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins.
To remove this cap, it must be pressed down and held down while turning it counter clock wise to remove it. (Its spring loaded and twists into place, we removed one and it was a 2 person job. Put the trans into 2nd, 4th, or reverse, then one person holds the cap and applies pressure, twisting in a counter clockwise direction. The other person hits it from the top with a hammer to get the cap to go in below the two clips that hold it in.) People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out the pins.
Originally NP435: Reverse-down towards the seat while Warner T-18: Reverse-up towards the dash.
The reverse shift pattern was changed circa 1973, but I can't recall for which of these 4 speeds. ( I believe it the NP435)
Note: There's another 4 speed: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive introduced in 1978 F100/150 300/302, TRANS code B
The OEM radio was powered by a GREEN 2-terminal pigtail. YELLOW with a BLACK stripe is switched power, BLUE with RED stripe is dash illumination. Do not mistake the BLUE with RED stripe wire for ground. The OEM radio grounded through its mounting chassis. The speakers were connected over a separate pigtail.
Ok I looked behind the glove box and found a connection the goes off the green and yellow. GREEN with YELLOW stripe wiring is hot-at-all-times power for the courtesy lamp circuit. Use that. There is a 3-connector pigtail behind the glove box (which also goes on to power the cigarette lighter).
It's not the stock radio wire because the stock radio didn't need hot-at-all-times power (EXCEPT the factory digital AM radio for clock memory).
solid black—power
blue with red stripe--dial light
black with gray dashes—ground
orange with green dashes--right speaker
white with green dashes--left speaker

77&79F250 09-27-2014 12:55 AM

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Here's what the factory wiring diagram says: for rear lights
Blk/rd= backup lights
Black= side marker, tag lights (on styleside)
Brown=tail lights, tag light (on flareside)
green= RH stop and brake
Yellow/blk= LH stop and brake

Rear light wiring
BROWN: running light circuit
YELLOW with BLACK stripe: driver-side stop/turn
GREEN: passenger-side stop/turn
BLACK with RED stripe: backup lamps

73 & 79 headlight-marker lights use same color codes
Brown= side marker and parking lights
White-blue trace= turn signal
Red-black trace= Low beams
Green-black trace= Hi beams

Flat bed wiring…
Brown= Run Light
Green= Brake light- L
Yellow= Brake Light- R
Black= Reverse Light??
Just wired my front lights. The brown wire is the marker light (side and turn) it is also the top wire on the turn signal socket (three wires in a triangle). The black is ground of course. The white/blue it the turn signal.
78/79 duel fuel tanks frame switch-Duralast/Universal 3 port fuel selector valve used with SW48 toggle switch Part Number: FSV4
There are two differences between the tanks. Tanks with EEC have a hole in the top center of the tank. A rubber grommet and check valve are pressed into the hole. A line goes from the check valve along the inside of the passenger side frame rail to the engine compartment where it hooks up to a charcoal canister. Non-EEC tanks don't have this hole. The other difference is the nipple for the breather line that is located right next to the nipple for the filler hose is located 180 degrees opposite.
If you are going from an EEC tank to a non-EEC tank you must also change the fuel cap to a vented style. The EEC tanks are vented through the EEC system and use a sealed fuel cap. Non-EEC tanks vent through the fuel filler cap.
If you run a non-EEC tank and a sealed cap the minimum is you'll have fuel starvation problems, at worst a collapsed fuel tank.
- Is your truck a long bed 4WD? Does it have evaporative emission system?
There are two possibilities with the plastic tank.
79 F150-350 regular cab, 133" WB 4WD, w/ evap. emissions system, 24.8 gallon mid-ship plastic tank
Same w/o evaporative emissions system 26.3 gallon plastic tank
Fuel sender
76-up F100-350 >s/n C00,000
Use with aft axle steel tank, includes gasket
Bob Hoover Ford-Mercury, Vienna, IL (618) 658-9218
Brighton Ford, Brighton, MI (800) 336-3305
Beau Townsend Ford, Vandalia, OH (937) 898-5841
Own Ford, Jarratt, VA (434) 535-8515
Vintage Fords, Beaver Dam, WI (877) 846-8243

77&79F250 09-27-2014 12:58 AM

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Fuel gauge issues?
Disconnect the wire that goes to the fuel sending unit at the tank. Ground that wire to the frame, making sure the frame is clean. Turn the ignition to the "run" position and watch the fuel gauge. If the gauge swings all the way to full, either the sending unit itself is bad or it has a bad ground. If the gauge stays on empty then either the gauge is bad or there is a wiring problem.
To pop the plug off for the test, you can barely get up in there with your head and see the plug. While looking at it, VERY CAREFULLY use a screwdriver to pry it off. AND I MEAN VERY CAREFULLY. It is only pushed on like a 1/8". This is only if you can’t get it with your hands.
Once you have done the test (above) and decide it’s the sending unit. And you have cleaned the ground and that did not work. Then disconnect the ground again and fuel line and read on….
If you can't get either one disconnected, no worries you will have a little more room once the tank is dropped down a little. But make sure you have some wire slack in the plug connector.
Run the tank dry or almost or siphon it empty, I would not do it with a tank of fuel, but if you just have to, just use a big floor jack and a piece of 2x2 plywood. It’s not heavy at all, unless you have it full or 1/2 full of gas. DRAIN THE TANK!
Loosen the filler and vent hose clamps at the tank end and maybe you can pop the lines off? But most of the time you have to just loosen the clamps and wait till the tank is about out.
With the jack in place, or not, just loosen the hdwr (2 bolts) on the front straps, and remove the tank straps aft hdwr all together, then swing the straps out of your way.
Slide the tank to the dvrs side about 1/2" and then pull out or let the passenger side come out of the frame. Then disconnect the elec connector and eng feed fuel line if you could not get to them earlier.
Then slide it as far as you can to the right and pop off the filler/vent lines. Sometime you need to carefully put a flat tip screwdriver in between the rubber hose and the tank to break it loose. The filler neck and vent lines get stuck to the metal pretty good sometimes.
Once the tank is removed there is a lock ring that comes off with a screwdriver or punch, look for a small tab that has been bent over to lock it. Un-bend it, tap off the lock ring, remove the sending unit.
Insp the underside of the tank where the support straps rest, lots of dirt and moisture build up there, and that causes the bottom side corners to rust out. You can also come reinstall time replace the anti-chaff material. Old 2" ratchet strap work great, glued to the support straps. (Rub/coat them with grease so they do not retain moisture, or coat them in the plastic tool handle dip).
Insp the inside of the tank, might be a great time to replace it all together? Before you reinstall anything connect the electric connection and ground to the sending unit. Wire it up under the truck so it is not hanging by the connection. And with the key in the 1st (on position) you should be able to move the float arm and see a difference in your gauge?? It is always easier to do this with a helper.....
Also before install, paint the complete tank with some good paint. Even spray on bed liner or undercoating??
460 info
I think the 1979 casting number prefix could be either D1VE or D9TE
1971/78 and some 1979 460 engines: The block casting number is D1VE-AB, A1B or A2B. These 460's do not have a weighted spacer / D1VE also applies to 1971/73 429's, as the block is the same.
Mid-model year 1979: FoMoCo changed the 460 engine, has a weighted spacer, the block casting number is: D9TE-AB
Since this was a "running change," there are no before/from specific serial numbers or production dates, so in 1979...the block casting number must to be known to get the correct parts.
The flywheel (flexplate) & harmonic balancer are specific to either the D1VE or D9TE blocks.
460 WAS not available (FROM THE FACTORY) with 4WD or a Manual Trans until 1983, then only in F250/350's / No 460's available in F100's after 1976, F150's after 1979 (CA:1978), Passenger Cars after 1978 / No 460's available in 1980/82 F250/350's, E250/350's only.
1983/97 F250/350 460's have a hydraulic clutch.
1973/79 4WD's do not use engine towers (aka perches, stands), as there is no engine cross member to bolt them to. 4WD engine supports bolt to the inner frame rails.
1968/78 Passenger Cars, 1975/97 E250/350 and 1983/97 F250/350 460 engine mounting parts will not work on 1973/79 F100/350's.

77&79F250 09-27-2014 01:01 AM

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I'd start by determining how much mechanical advance you have, then set my initial advance accordingly so you achieve 32-36 degrees total (as long as you don't experience detonation).
You can determine mechanical advance by pulling the breaker plate and seeing which advance slot the dizzy is using, the numbers will be stamped on the reluctor arms (only one advance slot is used) multiply this number by 2 and that's your mechanical advance.
Example: a 13L advance slot = 26 degrees mechanical advance, so you'd want to keep the initial advance in the 6-10 degree range to avoid spark knock.
Every vehicle/engine is different so you'll need to see what works best for your particular application, but the above numbers should get you in the ballpark, check out the link below it'll make things more clear than me trying to explain.
Dual Battery System You can connect the batteries with a heavy duty relay. Wrangler Power Products in Prescott, Arizona sells a relay, three position switch and all wiring for about $100. Switch lets you connect both batteries when running (for normal use), all the time (jump start yourself), or not at all (If there is a problem with the batteries).
Also marine supply houses sell manual switch for use in boats, they will work fine in a car, but you have to turn off the car to turn the dial and switch modes, or else it can fry your alternator.
Door hinges: you could look at the hinges on the driver side compare them to the passenger side. you will see that there is only two hinges and they are upside down on one side of the truck, ford only made 2 hinges for the 4 locations, so take the hinge you need from the opposite side off a truck in the wrecking yard as the passenger sides get used way less.
So lower driver side hinge matches upper passenger side - they are the same part
and upper driver side hinge matches lower passenger side - they are the same part
According to sources this above info is incorrect, but it always worth a try to ck it out. They might be different part #’s but they might be interchangeable ?
1973/79 F100/750 & 1978/79 Bronco:
D3TZ-1022800-A .. Right & Left Upper Hinge / Obsolete
D3TZ-1022810-A .. Right & Left Lower Hinge / Obsolete
The lower hinges contain the check strap, the upper hinges do not.

77&79F250 09-27-2014 01:04 AM

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1973/97 F250 rear of rear spring bracket-frame mounted / Rear shackle & bushing kit
The rear spring bracket (hanger) is available from Ford.
This is the bracket that is riveted to the frame rail (rear of rear spring), is notorious for rusting out.
EOTZ5775C ..Rear Spring Bracket / EOTZ-5775-C replaced: D8TZ-5775-B & D3TZ-5775-C.
MSRP: $71.34 / price: $54.79
Application: 1973/97 F250 2WD / 1977 (after serial # Y20,001), 1978/97 F250 4WD.
After serial # Y20,001: This is the cut-off serial number for High Boys. This bracket is not correct for High Boys.
This same rear spring bracket also fits some F150's & F350's.
EOTZ = Ford updates 10's of 1000's of part numbers every year. This is a typical example.
D3TZ5630F .. Rear Spring-Rear Shackle Bracket & Bushing Kit / Obsolete.
Application: 1973/79 F250 2WD / 1977 (after serial # Y20,001) 1978/79 F250 4WD.
Green Sales 1-800-543-4959 Dennis Carpenter has ONE 1-704-786-8139
D3TZ5776B .. Rear Spring-Rear Shackle Bracket / Obsolete
This is just the shackle bracket only, it does not include the spring hanger or bushings.
Same application as the shackle bracket & bushing kit.
Collectors Auto Supply in Oroville WA has 276 (that's right, 276) 1-800-414-4462
Green Sales 1-800-543-4959
Part number sources:
1973/79; 1980/89; 1990/2002 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalogs.
1991 Ford O-S-I (Obsolete-Supercede-Interchange) Catalog.
Some (most) dealer parts personnel are clueless, because when they look the number up in the 1973/79 truck parts catalog, it shows D8TZ5775B.
When they type that number into the system, it comes up empty.
What they are unaware of is, Ford updated D8TZ5775B in 1980 to EOTZ5775C.
This is a good part number: Guaranteed.
All your local dealer has to do is look up D8TZ5775B in their Obsolete-Supercede-Interchange Catalog
For the steering box play - Start by adjusting the slack adjuster - it will be a locknut over what appears to be a bolt with a screwdriver slot. Put a screwdriver into the slot to hold it and back off the locknut. Slowly turn the screwdriver clockwise while rotating the steering shaft back and forth until there's very little to no play. Hold adjustment bolt and tighten the locknut. With power steering this is done with the engine running. Once the slack is adjusted out of the steering box, look at the top of the steering column (still under the hood) under the master cylinder. There's a heavy fiber washer (sometimes referred to as a rag joint) (1/2 ton only) that makes a coupling in the column, usually this is worn out and the cause for excessive steering play.
Why did I post a 65 Mustang 3 G you know what to get from a 93 taurus.

77&79F250 09-27-2014 01:08 AM

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Transmission install tip-8" long grade 8 bolts with the heads cut off to make guide studs. These make installing the transmission a whole lot easier, and since I was doing everything by hand, easier was always better. These bolts have been put in their own box and labeled for future use. Use a hack saw to cut flat tip screwdriver slots in the ends, use a grinder to round the ends a little after cutting off the heads. LOOK AROUND THERE IS A PIC OF THIS.
Trans tip 2- When installing a flywheel and torquing the bolts, you need to prevent the crankshaft from turning. I used a piece of 1/2" aluminum U-channel which I cut to length and slipped between two of the ring gear teeth. I then wedged it against the bottom inside corner of the frame at about a 60 degree angle. The aluminum is softer than the iron teeth, so any damage will occur to it long before the teeth, and it will actually conform itself to the iron teeth if enough pressure is applied. The U-channel also fits perfectly over the outside edge of an FE flywheel, so it will not slip off!
To actually install the transmission itself, I slid it under the truck on a piece of cardboard, then used two pieces of 2" round hardwood stock laid across the transmission tunnel as "hands"...I tied two pieces of rope under the front and rear of the trans, then ran them over the stock, then back down to me. This way I could pull down and push up from underneath, while having the option of tying off the rope to the frame to hold the trans suspended while I re-positioned.
Two different types of windshield wipers, two different wiper switches. Two speed wiper switches have a low & high speed.
Intermittent (delay) wipers were optional on 1973/79 F100/350's and 1978/79 Bronco's. Intermittent is not another name for low speed!
DOOZ-17A553-A .. Two Speed Wiper Switch-Not used with intermittent wipers (Motorcraft SW-896) / Marked: D0OB-17A553-A or D / Obsolete
1973/79 F100/350 / 1978/79 Bronco // 1970/71 Fairlane/Torino/Montego / 1970/72 Maverick/Comet.
SUSANVILLE FORD in Susanville CA = 530-257-2137.
NOS ONLY in San Jose CA = 800-667-6659.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959.
D1OZ-17A553-A .. Two Speed Wiper Switch-Used with intermittent wipers (Motorcraft SW-1010) / Marked: D1OB-17A553-AA / Obsolete
1973/79 F100/350 / 1978/79 Bronco // 1971 Fairlane/Torino/Montego.
BURNS FORD in Burns OR = 541-573-7278.
1st 2 pics....1976 on the left 1978 on the right.

77&79F250 09-27-2014 01:11 AM

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Non-divorced transfer case attaches directly to the transmission. A flange on the trans tailshaft housing mates up with the mounting surface on the and the trans tailshaft is splined into the input gear.

Divorced t.cases mount away from the trans. They are physically mounted to the frame and have a short driveshaft going from the rear of the trans to a yoke on the input shaft. They used to be common on pickups, but tend to push the back too far for short wheelbase vehicles
Lincoln Mk VIII two-speed fan, Taurus or Lincoln cars
A 95 Mercury villager minivan with a 3.3L V6. The stock radiator for this thing was a gigantic three core all aluminum radiator. However, the fan for this was a gigantic 19" two speed fan. This thing is massive. Bigger than a mark viii. If anyone's interested, I did some research the 92-2002 Villager is a rebadged Nissan quest.

77&79F250 09-27-2014 01:14 AM

8 Attachment(s)
E Brake- Pay attention to where the cable splits and goes from one to two cables. There are two different set ups. Here is what the Ford parts catalog calls for:
Cable, front, emergency brake.
Fits 78-79 F250 4WD reg cab, 133" WB.
cable length 108 1/2" long
Wesley Obsolete Parts, Liberty, KY has 78 (606) 787-5293 Dennis Carpenter Obsolete, Concord, NC has 1 (704) 786-8139 Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 1, (800) 543-4959

The BRAKE lamp light in the instrument cluster has nothing to do with the emergency (parking) brake being on! Meaning, if you set the park brake, DO NOT LOOK FOR THE LIGHT TO COME ON LIKE NEW VEHICLES!

C8AZ-2B264-A .. Low Brake Fluid Warning Lamp Switch-Threads into the Brake Pressure Differential Valve / Available from Ford & auto parts stores.
Applications: 1968/79 F100/350, Bronco and Econoline & Misc Passenger Cars.
When this plastic switch goes bad, the lamp comes on and stays on, so it's possible someone disconnected it.
Edit: Wesley and Green Sales also have this switch.
D6TZ-2A635-C .. Right Rear Parking Brake Cable - 57 1/8" long / Obsolete
HAVEN FORD in Haven KS = 620-465-2252.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959.
D6TZ-2A635-D .. Left Rear Parking Brake Cable - 65 3/4" long / Obsolete
D6TZ-2853-B .. Front Parking Brake Cable - 89 5/16" long / Obsolete

77&79F250 09-27-2014 01:17 AM

24 Attachment(s)
D44-D60 But you will have a hard time finding a 60 with the 32.5" spring spacing, it'll have to be from a dentside. The '86+axles are spaced at 36", but are more common. Honestly the price you pay for one is way over rated. I happened to get one and put it in my truck, but it is just bragging rights to say "Yeah...I got a D60 front axle." They are over rated unless you continually are beating on it so hard you are tearing your D44 apart all the time.
The truths:
Yes it is heavier...doesn't do much but slow your truck down.
Yes it has a bigger ring gear...haven't broke yours, so why need to go bigger?
Yes it has bigger u-joint...good news is that likely won’t break on you.
The pitfall:
[color=&amp](The outer shafts are the same diameter as the outer shafts on a D44) POSSIBLY INCORRECT (just a different spline count).[/color] Instead of maybe breaking a u-joint you will likely break an outer shaft and good luck finding a cheap replacement.
The D44 held up for you for now, why change it? Also spare parts for the 44 are cheap. If you have 3:55 gears now and want to find 4.11s just find a D44 with 4.11s in already. I wouldn't pay more than $200 for a D44 front...they are very common. One questions for this would be what size tire are you running? For off road use the D44 is usually good 35" and under tires (yes there are many exceptions for this). If you rebuild the D44, do you plan on putting in after market (stronger) axle shafts and u-joints (or do you already have them). Load rating tests show that a fully upgraded D44 axle with good aftermarket shafts (there are LOTS to choose from and some are far better than others) is about equal to a stock D60 with 35 spline outer stubs. Ok now you just upgraded your axle shafts... what does your current ring and pinion look like? If you are eating up teeth or snapping pinion shafts there is really no fix for this but to go to a D60... well there is one possible option and that’s a Dana 50 which is a kit to drop in D50 gears into a D44, bigger ring gear but same pinion shaft diameter. If you are going to regear and going to keep the D44 this might be a good time to look at this option for increased strength. Last question is... with the plow on the front and any extra weight are you over the D44's load rating? If you are really working it hard do you know if your D44 is still strait and are you overloading the wheel bearings? Might be time to weigh the front half of your truck and see where you are at. An axle truss might help, but I'd say if you are past the 44's weight I'd move on to a 60.
ranger429's hard work tracking down parts, shows right here
For anyone looking for a brass/copper core advanced auto part number 398304 is the correct one. It is also the same core that fits early, 68'ish mustangs. Laurel Mountain Mustang is where I bought mine from. Part number just in case it is needed in the future:
For A/C 18476-1A
For non A/C 18476-2
Also NAPA but makes sure and ask are they aluminum or copper? NOW CARRY SPECTRA BRAND that are ALUMINIUM
Copper is what you want.
Heater core, high output heater C6OZ-18476-B
Antique Auto Supply, Arlington, TX (817) 275=2381 CLOSED DOWN
Wesley Obsolete Parts, Liberty, KY (606) 787-5293

Dennis Carpenter, Concord, NC also HAD 1 but they have it listed under C60Z-18476-B, the third digit is "zero" instead of the correct letter "O". (704) 786-8139
Additional C6OZ-18476-B heater core applications:
1966/70 Falcon w/o A/C / 1966/72 Fairlane/Torino w/o A/C / 1971/73 Mustang/Cougar w/o A/C

Heater core w/ factory A/C or hi-low comfort vent system

Std Heater core
Why show a 90 to 96 fuel tank....that skid plate will fit a 38 gal tank you swapped into your truck.

77&79F250 09-27-2014 01:20 AM

7 Attachment(s)
For OEM radio help, the guy to use is in Scottsbluff Nebraska. His name is Gene Cochran, and he works out of his house. He's a crusty old codger, but does some tremendous work. While he had the radio apart, he updated some of the internals and cleaned the heck out of everything. My total bill was $25! His number is 308 632-2520 (I checked with him at the time I collected my stereo, and he was OK with giving his number out) He also lined me out on the manner in which the old radios were wired (mine at least). The speakers are in series meaning positive from radio to positive on speaker #1, negative from that speaker goes to positive on speaker #2. Negative from Speaker #2 goes to Negative on stereo. Now the stock stereo rocks as loud as the little 5 1/2 speakers can handle!!!
While it's there you might see if he'll wire in an aux input jack. I had it done with mine, and it allows me to run my I-pod through it. Basically when the I-pod is connected it becomes the antenna source. Cost in parts was under $5. I set mine on a 12" extension so I could just drill a small hole in the dash by the ashtray, which I'm turning into a covert charging / storage station for my phone and I-pod. won't cost much more.
Also just to clarify the square headlights did start on the 78 model trucks. The base and custom package trucks came with the round headlights in 78 and the rangers, ranger xlt, and lariat trucks came with the square headlights.

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