Hey guys, I just picked up a '98 B4000, 4x4 SE. She only has 126,000 kms on 'er, runs like a top but has a few issues. I was told when I bought it that the 4 wheel drive is not working, but when I put it in 4 hi and did some tight cornering in a parking lot it seems like it's engaged. Then as I tried to drive out of the turn it seemed as if the rear axle was really stiff and had trouble rolling. After disengaging 4hi it drove normal again. Any thoughts on this?
I've been researching the PVH system and it seems like the Rugged Ridge/AVM hubs are the way to go, but they only list B4000 from 2001-2008, will they fit? I don't know how many splines the 98 Mazdas have.


Also the thing seems to pull right pretty good, but it has 4 different tires on it so I'm going to change that first and have it aligned.

The stereo switches from radio to cd and back again about every 15 secs, anyone experienced this? Would like to put a deck in it but won't have the cash for a little while to blow on that.

Anything you guys can suggest I check out? Trying to put together a list of things to service first, and have some suggestions put out there.

JB

 

If your '98 B4000 has the PVH engagement system, then the AVM/Rugged Ridge hubs will fit.

There are other options: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-of-them.html

 

Hey thanks for the info Rockledge. I should be ordering those up at some point before winter.
Now that i've been driving it for a week and a half I've noticed that it's burning way too much fuel. I've got maybe 175km to 3/4 tank. Any thoughts on what could cause this? Seems to run fine, spark plugs were changed recently (I'm told), it's clean under the hood and I can't spot any loose vac lines.

Maybe O2 sensors or a dirty MAF? Still think that even if those were both shot it should still give better mileage.

Any thoughts and suggestions appreciated, thanks guys.

 

On these motors, the best thing you can do for fuel efficiency is to keep them tuned-up. They aren't known for great gas mileage to begin with.

New plugs and wires, replace air and fuel filters, and cleaning the MAF should help.

 

So I calculated today I am getting 22l/100km or about 10mpg. It has new plugs, wires are in good shape and air filter is brand new. I really think this is more than a tuneup issue. I can smell it's burning rich but I don't know what is causing it. CEL is not on and it seems to run fine.

Please help guys. thanks
JB

 

Different size tires aren't good for the 4X4, as the wheels turn at a different rate & if on the rear, will un-calibrate the rear speed sensor, so your fuel consumption will be questionable. Best to use the specified size tires & wheels on all 4 corners.

 

Tires won't make it smell rich....

 

Right, but different size wheels/tires on the same axle can cause binding when in 4X4 & doing tight turns because they turn at different speeds.
Having un-calibrated for, or different sized wheel/tire sizes on the same axle isn't gonna do the rear differential, traction lock, anti-lock brakes, or speed sensor output to the speed-o, engine & ABS computers any good.
Overly rich fuel smell suggests he may have more than one problem, like corrupt fuel trim & a number of things can cause that.
Pulling to the right could be an alignment problem, bound up brake caliper piston causing brake drag on that wheel, low tire pressure, different size tires/wheels on the same axle will have the wheel speed sensors on the same axle output different rotational speeds & that can confuse the ABS computer about what the wheels are really doing, confuse it & have it apply differing pressure to the opposite wheel to compensate for what it thinks is a wheel about to lock up.
Still lots of unknowns, so we need the op to post up more clues, to maybe zero in on the problem & offer up more focused trouble shooting suggestions.
Posting Engine, or ABS computer trouble code Number clues can be helpful in diagnosing problems.

 

Okay lets clear up a few things.

All the tires are the same size. They are different brands/models of tires but they ARE the same size. Yes there is likely an alignment issue, and it would be ideal to have 4 of the same tire with the same amount of wear on them. That being said, I do not have the money for 4 new tires right now. This is not my biggest concern right now (and I'm not using the 4x4).

I am going through way too much fuel. I have no check engine light or abs lights on. There is a rich smell, and white exhaust (unburnt fuel) at the tailpipe. So it could be possible that I have a miss and I'm not hearing it, it could also be possible that my O2 sensors aren't working as they should. Those are the only things I know of that might cause this. What else would cause those symptoms?

I have a new air filter and spark plugs. Wires appear fine but I intend on misting them to check for arcing.

 

Ok, good feedback on the tires. Not sure yet what to make of the rear end binding, but it may also be figuring in on the bad fuel consumption some, maybe the alignment too, if its out of spec far enough.

Since you don't have a CEL lit, maybe consider investing in a low cost ELM scan tool here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & use FORScan software with the viewing device of your choice, to have the ELM take an in depth look at the engine control computer, its sensors, like the MAF, O2, ECT, & IAT sensor input to the computer, fuel trim for both cyl banks, to try to get some clues to what's going on with MPG.

Good idea to mist the plug wires, plugs & coil pack after dark, to look for electrical break down. Also a good idea to bring all past & present due scheduled maintenance replacement items up to date as Rockledge suggested & you've begun that with the spark plugs & air filter.

All that said, since you didn't install the plugs but were told they were new, you didn't say you know if they're the specified design & heat range plug, or if they're properly gaped & torqued to spec.
Our engines are kinda persnickety about such, as they use a waste spark ignition system that works the plugs, wires & coilpack Twice as hard, as they're fired on Every rotation of the crank shaft, once on the power stroke, again on the exhaust stroke (waste spark), so our coil pack, spark plugs & wires need to be designed to take that double work load, thus the specified OEM fine wire iridium enhanced center electrode, with platinum pad side wire design plugs, properly gaped & torqued to spec & OEM wires, are recommended, as they're designed for our engine & of good quality.

With your fuel consumption so bad, I agree that O2 & MAF sensors belong on your suspect list, as they have a large influence on fuel consumption. If it had an oiled cotton gauze, or foam air filter, or improperly buttoned up air box or air tube, the MAF sensor may be dirty & its output to the computer would likely be slow to respond/be corrupt, to airflow changes. First disconnect the battery B- cable if you decide to remove & clean the MAF sensor, to get at both sides. Opt for a plastic safe, non residual spray product, formulated just for cleaning the MAF sensor, like CRC or Valvolene MAF sensor cleaners. If just driven & warm, let the MAF cool before hitting it with the cold spray, so as not thermally shock it, don't touch it with the spray wand & keep it squeaky clean when re-installing.
If the O2 sensors have more than 75K miles, they're suspect, as their switching range & speed slow with age, sorta like me!!!

With the ELM, if you find the O2 sensors switching range & speed are slow & you replace them, take the time to perform the base cold & warm idle relearn strategy here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...9&postcount=12, as disconnecting the battery will wipe the KAM in which this info is stored, as well as the old fuel trim tables, but that's ok, because if the MAF & O2 sensors were faulty, the data stored in KAM was corrupt anyway, so now you'll have the computer begin with new in spec info & that might preclude driveability problems & improve mpg.

SO, the inexpensive ELM scantool can take an in depth look at the engine control system computer, sensors & actuators, to offer up good clues on where best to focus your next trouble shooting moves & help you get the best bang for your maintenance bucks, which you say are tight right now.
A bunch of thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.

 

How's the brake system? Any chance they could be failing to completely disengage when you let off the pedal?

I agree, it would be great to know what the relevant sensors are telling the PCM. A bad signal from the ECT, for example, could cause engine control issues and negatively affect air/fuel ratios.

 

Temp sensor failure will make it run in cold mode, a mileage killer.

wag alert...

 

Ok so I ordered an ELM interface. It should be here sometime by the end of the month (I live just south of Santa so it takes a while). I haven't had a chance to mist the wires yet, or clean the MAF but that will be tomorrow or Thursday night.

Are there aftermarket wires/plugs that are built to the same spec as OEM or is it best to just go with OEM?
Same question for plugs?

The truck has ~78400 mi. on it so I'm guessing it would be a good time to do all three O2 sensors regardless? I was thinking of ordering Bosch sensors off Amazon, any thoughts on that?

And then for the binding, I only noticed it once when I had it in 4hi. I hope this weekend I will be able to get it into the company shop and pull the tires and do a more thorough inspection.

Thanks for the help guys

 

Will the Temp sensor failure set off a CEL?

 

Maybe not. After all, you don't get a CEL when the engine is cold. Seems like you should get a CEL if it's still cold after an hour, but I think a temp sensor is an easy check.

Resistance checking. You can probably do this on the engine. Read it cold, read it hot, see if there is a difference:


Might be different for your truck:

| Repair Guides | Component Locations | Coolant Temperature Sensor | AutoZone.com

There are two, one for the gauge, one for the computer.