Torque wrench?
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Torque wrench?
Well sticky fingers have relieved me of my torque wrench. Doesn't much matter, i am not an engine builder and the one I had was equipped with the pointer dial. But my question is, what kind of torque wrench do you have? I need a new one this week. Sears is having a sale, Craftsman clicker type for $40, digital for $80. Harbor Freight has one for $22, auto parts stores range from $35-$60. What do you dent guys suggest?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
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From: Stanley, VA
Well sticky fingers have relieved me of my torque wrench. Doesn't much matter, i am not an engine builder and the one I had was equipped with the pointer dial. But my question is, what kind of torque wrench do you have? I need a new one this week. Sears is having a sale, Craftsman clicker type for $40, digital for $80. Harbor Freight has one for $22, auto parts stores range from $35-$60. What do you dent guys suggest?
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 279
Likes: 8
Clicker types work well, we use those to assemble everything at work, the real difference in torquing comes from the lube you use and how consistant your arm is, if you have fast or slow motion with the wrench it will make a difference, also be consistant at the click point, if you run past the click or click it multiple times it will alter it a 1-3 pounds, so just be consistant, if it's a head, main or rod bolt get some ARP lube or at least clean oil.
Hide this one in the bottom of the tool box, I had one sprout legs also, funny how the expensive tools get away so easily.
Hide this one in the bottom of the tool box, I had one sprout legs also, funny how the expensive tools get away so easily.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Sunny Florida
Clicker types work well, we use those to assemble everything at work, the real difference in torquing comes from the lube you use and how consistant your arm is, if you have fast or slow motion with the wrench it will make a difference, also be consistant at the click point, if you run past the click or click it multiple times it will alter it a 1-3 pounds, so just be consistant, if it's a head, main or rod bolt get some ARP lube or at least clean oil.
Hide this one in the bottom of the tool box, I had one sprout legs also, funny how the expensive tools get away so easily.
Hide this one in the bottom of the tool box, I had one sprout legs also, funny how the expensive tools get away so easily.
I have no idea how long it has been gone, I have not used it in years. My stuff is locked up tight now though!
What kind do you use?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
FWIW, Carcraft did a comparo last year: Torque Wrench Testing - Shop Tools - Car Craft Magazine
The HF wrench faired pretty well....
Whatever ya get, always zero out the torque wrench after use. Always.
The HF wrench faired pretty well....
Whatever ya get, always zero out the torque wrench after use. Always.
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Posting Guru
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the newer crapsman the red plastic lock likes to break. i have had it happen twice buddy has done it three times.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Craftsman, have a separate 3/8 dv inch lb and 1/2 dv ft lb audible (clicker) type. Digital will not take a drop as well. Remember is you add a "dog bone" torque adapter it has to be 90 degrees off (L or R), if its straight out, it changes the tq value. And its math time....
Yes try not to pull past the "click" a lot. Click and stop. If you are trying to to get a castle nut lined up, start at the min work up to get the slots to line up, work your way to your max torque in increments. If you hit max and its not lined up, take the nut off and add washers, start at the min torque again.
I despise a thief, specially a tool thief....
Guess the ol "Lock it or lose it" is in effect. Paint all you stuff, so its bright neon road worker green or orange, I do that to my trail loaner tool bag.
The trick works great on Q/D shackles, ****** straps, ratchet straps, anything that can get "borrowed". Makes it easy to find when dropped in the dirt or left in the back on some one else's rig. No more "oops, I though it was mine".
I digress.....a torque wrench beats German torque, "goot-n-tight". lol
Yes try not to pull past the "click" a lot. Click and stop. If you are trying to to get a castle nut lined up, start at the min work up to get the slots to line up, work your way to your max torque in increments. If you hit max and its not lined up, take the nut off and add washers, start at the min torque again.
I despise a thief, specially a tool thief....
Guess the ol "Lock it or lose it" is in effect. Paint all you stuff, so its bright neon road worker green or orange, I do that to my trail loaner tool bag.The trick works great on Q/D shackles, ****** straps, ratchet straps, anything that can get "borrowed". Makes it easy to find when dropped in the dirt or left in the back on some one else's rig. No more "oops, I though it was mine".
I digress.....a torque wrench beats German torque, "goot-n-tight". lol
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
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From: tujunga, calif
Edit, who makes the Craftsman tools these days? Years ago Singer made them I believe.
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From: Sunny Florida
Thats good to know, I haven't looked at them in years, most of my Craftsman tool are between 15-45 years old. Maybe I'll have to look at Snap-off for any future needs. I've had good luck with the old stuff, I just recently had to remove a rear end pinion nut, 40 year old 1/2" breaker bar with a six foot pipe and socket and that wasn't the first time...
Edit, who makes the Craftsman tools these days? Years ago Singer made them I believe.
Edit, who makes the Craftsman tools these days? Years ago Singer made them I believe.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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Quality has slipped with craftsman too. Bought a 250 ft lb torque wrench from them last year. I had 3 of them in a row slip on me torquing 175 ft lb bolts. Could've killed me if my engine stand had tipped as a result. Returned the last one for a refund. Never again. I'll go snap on from now on!
As a side note my 10+ year older craftsman torque wrenches work great.
As a side note my 10+ year older craftsman torque wrenches work great.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,844
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
I have two 1/2" drive Craftsmen clicker types, one is likely 30 years old, goes to 250 ft lbs. The other is maybe 5 years old, longer, 350 ft lbs. Most use is limited to wheel nuts though I do use for any engine assembly jobs. Also have a 3/8: drive Craftsman that I use mostly when doing maintenance on my two GoldWings or my old Triumph Trident. I Always .... always park them at zero and in their blow molded cases.
I have two "beam" type Craftsman torque wrenchs too, one is 1/2" drive and goes to about 125 ft lbs and the other is a 1/4" in lbs tool. They are accurate if used correctly, slowly, deliberately, and as long as one makes sure the hand grip is "on pivot" in use. They both have a nylon zip tie through them and hang free from their hooks. They are accurate, just most people take a dislike to them because they require that you look at the reading.
I have two "beam" type Craftsman torque wrenchs too, one is 1/2" drive and goes to about 125 ft lbs and the other is a 1/4" in lbs tool. They are accurate if used correctly, slowly, deliberately, and as long as one makes sure the hand grip is "on pivot" in use. They both have a nylon zip tie through them and hang free from their hooks. They are accurate, just most people take a dislike to them because they require that you look at the reading.