ELECTRICAL ISSUE HELLLPPPPP!!!
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
I am going by memory, but I believe the black/orange is the output wire from the alternator. All that stuff is hooked together. The yellow wire going through the firewall to the ignition switch usually also goes to the fuse box.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
B/O is alternator output on a 2G, but I'm not sure about the OP's truck.
2G plugs are known for shorting internally and killing the battery.
I'm not sure what the OP is saying about that splice.
With a 2G there are two 10Ga. B/O wires coming from the infamous "Fire Plug" to a single fusible link at the solenoid stud.
There is a TSB on this issue and it is one of the main reasons that Ford went with a separate charging lug on the 3G series of alternators.
The charging pigtail should always be replaced whenever the charging system is worked on (according to the Ford TSB 96214)
Borg-Warner PT-780
Standard Motor Products S-542
Power Plug 4628011
KEM Parts 350-220
Pico 5711
Dorman 85123
Motormite 08622
NAPA VRA400
ETA;
1G's have a splice going to the ammeter and the headlight/ignition switch.
That ammeter shunt could be bad and causing an issue.
2G plugs are known for shorting internally and killing the battery.
I'm not sure what the OP is saying about that splice.
With a 2G there are two 10Ga. B/O wires coming from the infamous "Fire Plug" to a single fusible link at the solenoid stud.
There is a TSB on this issue and it is one of the main reasons that Ford went with a separate charging lug on the 3G series of alternators.
The charging pigtail should always be replaced whenever the charging system is worked on (according to the Ford TSB 96214)
Borg-Warner PT-780
Standard Motor Products S-542
Power Plug 4628011
KEM Parts 350-220
Pico 5711
Dorman 85123
Motormite 08622
NAPA VRA400
ETA;
1G's have a splice going to the ammeter and the headlight/ignition switch.
That ammeter shunt could be bad and causing an issue.
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i found that diagram and have chased just about everything i have cut the R/O, Y/W and the Y/LG everything but the large Yellow wire but i went into the cab dropped the steering column and disconnected the Large yellow from the ignition switch and no change. if the shunt is bad where can i find a new wire that has everything in it for the truck? cause ford doent even have a listing for one?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The large yellow wire is not the shunt, so the shunt is not your problem.
If you already tried disconnecting the ignition switch, try disconnecting the connector (that says "same connector" in the above diagram)
Then at least you can isolate it to the engine bay or inside the cab.
The dual fusible link seems to be on the other side of the firewall, but I don't have a 1G truck to look at.
You could really help yourself by getting the proper Electrical and Vacuum Testing Manual for your truck.
They should be available from Helm Inc., and sometimes on Ebay.
If you already tried disconnecting the ignition switch, try disconnecting the connector (that says "same connector" in the above diagram)
Then at least you can isolate it to the engine bay or inside the cab.
The dual fusible link seems to be on the other side of the firewall, but I don't have a 1G truck to look at.
You could really help yourself by getting the proper Electrical and Vacuum Testing Manual for your truck.
They should be available from Helm Inc., and sometimes on Ebay.
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From: Virginia
One some of the trucks, the large yellow going to the ignition switch has a splice in it, and branches off underneath the dash and feeds the hot all the time fuses in the fuse box also.
I think later on they wired it differently, one yellow wire dedicated to the ignition switch, and another dedicated yellow wire to the fuse box.
I think later on they wired it differently, one yellow wire dedicated to the ignition switch, and another dedicated yellow wire to the fuse box.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
Ok, I have a decent diagram from a old Haynes manual(the one they don't make anymore).
Working back from the ignition switch, there are two yellow wires feeding the ignition switch. They go back from the ignition switch to a splice. There are 4 yellow wires at this splice, the 2 from the ignition switch, 1 goes to fuse 13 in the fuse box, and the other is the feed from the solenoid. Before it gets to the solenoid there is a "junction block" somewhere out there that connects lots of wires together.
Fuse 13 says "exterior lighting, emergency flasher".
A black/orange wire feeds the hot all the time part of the fuse box. There is also a black/orange wire that feeds the headlight switch.
Is any of this jiving with what you are seeing? The diagram is very hard to read, there are different options depending on how the truck was optioned out.
Working back from the ignition switch, there are two yellow wires feeding the ignition switch. They go back from the ignition switch to a splice. There are 4 yellow wires at this splice, the 2 from the ignition switch, 1 goes to fuse 13 in the fuse box, and the other is the feed from the solenoid. Before it gets to the solenoid there is a "junction block" somewhere out there that connects lots of wires together.
Fuse 13 says "exterior lighting, emergency flasher".
A black/orange wire feeds the hot all the time part of the fuse box. There is also a black/orange wire that feeds the headlight switch.
Is any of this jiving with what you are seeing? The diagram is very hard to read, there are different options depending on how the truck was optioned out.
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jackdaniels250
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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