5.4 rebuild
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5.4 rebuild
I have a 2000 F250 SD with a 5.4 that has 266,000 miles on it. It has just recently started having overheating issues and some knocking so I am going to build a new motor for it. I think the overheating is because of a head gasket. That seems to be the consensus from the mechanics I have talked to. The knocking is just from high mileage. I use it like a truck! I am a contractor so I haul quite a bit. Even "empty" it is still loaded with tools.
I am just now in the planning stages. Any advice?
I found an engine from a 2002 F150 at a wrecking yard that was totaled when someone T-boned it. No idea how many original miles on it. They had 3 engines sitting there. The guy that pulled it said it was the best of the bunch. It was running when he pulled it . He said it was running smooth and no knocks or other issues. Looks clean, no oil on the motor or obvious leaks. There was road dirt on it so I know it was not steam cleaned. The price isn't bad. $850 for the complete motor excluding alternator and compressor. Thoughts?
I want a good reliable every day truck with some pep. Any suggestions would be helpful. The truck was a gift from my mother so I will never sell it. I am planning on a few upgrades but have no desire to go overboard or build a "performance" truck.
I am not that educated on the 5.4. This is the first Ford I have ever owned. I know that is indecent, but the family was always Chevy people. Now I know better! So any suggestions for upgrades or mods that aren't too aggressive are appreciated.
Budget is not a huge concern but I don't have unlimited funds.
I am just now in the planning stages. Any advice?
I found an engine from a 2002 F150 at a wrecking yard that was totaled when someone T-boned it. No idea how many original miles on it. They had 3 engines sitting there. The guy that pulled it said it was the best of the bunch. It was running when he pulled it . He said it was running smooth and no knocks or other issues. Looks clean, no oil on the motor or obvious leaks. There was road dirt on it so I know it was not steam cleaned. The price isn't bad. $850 for the complete motor excluding alternator and compressor. Thoughts?
I want a good reliable every day truck with some pep. Any suggestions would be helpful. The truck was a gift from my mother so I will never sell it. I am planning on a few upgrades but have no desire to go overboard or build a "performance" truck.
I am not that educated on the 5.4. This is the first Ford I have ever owned. I know that is indecent, but the family was always Chevy people. Now I know better! So any suggestions for upgrades or mods that aren't too aggressive are appreciated.
Budget is not a huge concern but I don't have unlimited funds.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Roanoke, VA
Check with them because usually if you open a powertrain unit they void your warranty.
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I will do that.
I guess I should have included this in the original post... The truck is running now so I'm in no great rush to swap the motor. Hence buying the other to rebuild. I made arrangements with a local transmission shop to rebuild the transmission after I swap motors because I'm trying to avoid pulling the cab off to get the engine / transmission out. This way I can trailer it to the trans shop after the swap and they can do their thing.
I guess I should have included this in the original post... The truck is running now so I'm in no great rush to swap the motor. Hence buying the other to rebuild. I made arrangements with a local transmission shop to rebuild the transmission after I swap motors because I'm trying to avoid pulling the cab off to get the engine / transmission out. This way I can trailer it to the trans shop after the swap and they can do their thing.
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Cargo Master
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From: Nowthen, MN
I wouldn't spend $850 on a good running engine just to tear it apart and rebuild it. Their 30 day warranty assumes you're just dropping the engine in as-is. If you tear it apart and rebuild it, that warranty is gone. If you're going to spend the money on a good engine, I'd just swap that one in, forget about the rebuild, and probably enjoy years of good service from it. If you want to rebuild, just pull yours and rebuild it. I don't see any reason to spend $850 on an engine to rebuild when you already have one you can rebuild.
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I guess I am not making myself clear.
I'm not asking for advice on what you think I should do as far as buying the other motor.
I drive the truck daily. I don't want to rush the rebuild or swap the motor for an unknown.
I am going to do the rebuild on a second motor. That way I can take my time and do what I want to do without having to bust my *** to get it done and be without transportation any longer than I have to.
Does anyone have anything constructive to put in about what parts to use or upgrades to do? I just want a steady dependable work truck with a better than stock motor.
I'm not asking for advice on what you think I should do as far as buying the other motor.
I drive the truck daily. I don't want to rush the rebuild or swap the motor for an unknown.
I am going to do the rebuild on a second motor. That way I can take my time and do what I want to do without having to bust my *** to get it done and be without transportation any longer than I have to.
Does anyone have anything constructive to put in about what parts to use or upgrades to do? I just want a steady dependable work truck with a better than stock motor.
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From: Stephensville WI
OK, when rebuilding, there are a few things you can do.
Stay away from things like large camshafts, high flow heads, high flow intake manifolds, or any parts that claim they make more horsepower. You don't want to specifically create high end horsepower, you want to engine to make more LOW end torque. This will give you a better driving experience in a street vehicle.
Replace the stock cam with something like a Comp Cams XE262H. That, in conjunction with a new tune, will give you a good low end torque boost. Back in my younger days these were called RV cams.
Use gapless rings on your rebuild. Those also allow the engine to make more power.
Get a 3 angle valve job. This enhance the off-seat flow on the intake side, which creates torque. Remember, off seat flow and intake port velocity are more important for a street engine than port volume.
Replace the Y-pipe on your exhaust, but don't go overboard in the exhaust size. Stock tubing is OK for this application.
Stay away from things like large camshafts, high flow heads, high flow intake manifolds, or any parts that claim they make more horsepower. You don't want to specifically create high end horsepower, you want to engine to make more LOW end torque. This will give you a better driving experience in a street vehicle.
Replace the stock cam with something like a Comp Cams XE262H. That, in conjunction with a new tune, will give you a good low end torque boost. Back in my younger days these were called RV cams.
Use gapless rings on your rebuild. Those also allow the engine to make more power.
Get a 3 angle valve job. This enhance the off-seat flow on the intake side, which creates torque. Remember, off seat flow and intake port velocity are more important for a street engine than port volume.
Replace the Y-pipe on your exhaust, but don't go overboard in the exhaust size. Stock tubing is OK for this application.
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Thanks Redford.
Like i said, I am looking for suggestions and doing research. Any suggestions from you guys with more experience with these motors is helpful.
I am not intimidated by the rebuild. I am better than average as far as mechanical aptitude. What I am doing may not make sense to some of you but I have a plan that works for me.
If I absolutely destroy the new motor then it's on me. I need a project for the winter.
Like I said, the truck is running right now. It just occasionally has overheating issues and some knocking. If I drive it reasonably and don't haul heavy with it I can keep it running indefinitely. Or it could blow tomorrow. Who knows.
My main objective is to have a fresh motor to put in when it does go. I have the time and money to rebuild one now more than I have the luxury of doing without the truck. Plus I get a second motor that I can rebuild later if I want to go at it again. Maybe I will do a little more aggressive build on that one.
I really only need to get a few more years of service out of the truck before I can turn it into a project truck. As I said previously, it was a gift from my mother when I started my new business so I will never sell it. Eventually I will restore it and keep it as a toy.
With all that in mind. I figured now was the time to start learning what I want to do with the final project as well as the ins and outs of the truck.
If I just wanted a truck I would go buy one. This is kind of a long term project. Multi incarnation kind of thing.
Like i said, I am looking for suggestions and doing research. Any suggestions from you guys with more experience with these motors is helpful.
I am not intimidated by the rebuild. I am better than average as far as mechanical aptitude. What I am doing may not make sense to some of you but I have a plan that works for me.
If I absolutely destroy the new motor then it's on me. I need a project for the winter.
Like I said, the truck is running right now. It just occasionally has overheating issues and some knocking. If I drive it reasonably and don't haul heavy with it I can keep it running indefinitely. Or it could blow tomorrow. Who knows.
My main objective is to have a fresh motor to put in when it does go. I have the time and money to rebuild one now more than I have the luxury of doing without the truck. Plus I get a second motor that I can rebuild later if I want to go at it again. Maybe I will do a little more aggressive build on that one.
I really only need to get a few more years of service out of the truck before I can turn it into a project truck. As I said previously, it was a gift from my mother when I started my new business so I will never sell it. Eventually I will restore it and keep it as a toy.
With all that in mind. I figured now was the time to start learning what I want to do with the final project as well as the ins and outs of the truck.
If I just wanted a truck I would go buy one. This is kind of a long term project. Multi incarnation kind of thing.
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"I am not that educated on the 5.4."
"I just want a steady dependable work truck with a better than stock motor."
"Budget is not a huge concern but I don't have unlimited funds."
Humbly take the council of an old mechanic. Have a Ford reman with their warranty put in it with a two day turn around.
Modular engines are not like 302's. More complex and they have OHC's that do not have replaceable cam bearings. If you must try to learn with this as a first engine remanufacture then buy the core and a new set of heads with cams. You do not have the equipment to spray weld the cam journals to get it back to OE specs.. If one of the heads cam saddles have a scratch that will catch a fingernail run across it then it is a boat anchor cause you cannot build the material back up and then align hone it. Further your local machine shop probably does not have a milling machine that can put the proper RA finish on the deck surfaces for the MLS head gaskets.
All of the TTY bolts are suppose to be replaced once they are un-torqued. As usual bore and hand fit each new oversize piston and turn the crank. If any of this is out of tolerance you will need another block or crank or connecting rods. Of course a new oil pump and a Ford timing set and harmonic balancer.
If you are unfortunate enough to need a couple of these hard parts that cannot be machined you could potentially have to pay more than the Ford reman to replace cause you don't get the volume pricing of the remanufacturer.
When you assemble it if you do not get the oil pump primed properly and the timing chains set correctly you could destroy this engine upon initial start up.
Many garages have had rebuild attempts, especially with the VCT Modular engines, fail prematurely. The tiny oil passages and oil galleries cannot always be cleaned in the hot tanks. Non silicone ADBV gasket material especially from oil filters other than Motorcraft have permanently sealed SOME of these passage ways on SOME of these engine cores and if not pressure tested will rear its ugly head upon start up.
Lastly you do not have a warranty and probably have an engine that will not last the hundreds of thousands of miles the factory engines do. The OEM machine shops cost millions.
Do not be discouraged! Go for it. I used to be a high school auto mechanic teacher. It's only money. Experience is the best teacher. My council has thankfully ended. Whew!
"I just want a steady dependable work truck with a better than stock motor."
"Budget is not a huge concern but I don't have unlimited funds."
Humbly take the council of an old mechanic. Have a Ford reman with their warranty put in it with a two day turn around.
Modular engines are not like 302's. More complex and they have OHC's that do not have replaceable cam bearings. If you must try to learn with this as a first engine remanufacture then buy the core and a new set of heads with cams. You do not have the equipment to spray weld the cam journals to get it back to OE specs.. If one of the heads cam saddles have a scratch that will catch a fingernail run across it then it is a boat anchor cause you cannot build the material back up and then align hone it. Further your local machine shop probably does not have a milling machine that can put the proper RA finish on the deck surfaces for the MLS head gaskets.
All of the TTY bolts are suppose to be replaced once they are un-torqued. As usual bore and hand fit each new oversize piston and turn the crank. If any of this is out of tolerance you will need another block or crank or connecting rods. Of course a new oil pump and a Ford timing set and harmonic balancer.
If you are unfortunate enough to need a couple of these hard parts that cannot be machined you could potentially have to pay more than the Ford reman to replace cause you don't get the volume pricing of the remanufacturer.
When you assemble it if you do not get the oil pump primed properly and the timing chains set correctly you could destroy this engine upon initial start up.
Many garages have had rebuild attempts, especially with the VCT Modular engines, fail prematurely. The tiny oil passages and oil galleries cannot always be cleaned in the hot tanks. Non silicone ADBV gasket material especially from oil filters other than Motorcraft have permanently sealed SOME of these passage ways on SOME of these engine cores and if not pressure tested will rear its ugly head upon start up.
Lastly you do not have a warranty and probably have an engine that will not last the hundreds of thousands of miles the factory engines do. The OEM machine shops cost millions.
Do not be discouraged! Go for it. I used to be a high school auto mechanic teacher. It's only money. Experience is the best teacher. My council has thankfully ended. Whew!
Lot of effort put into this for no thanks. Just stay stock. The aftermarket has not taken off on these engines for a reason.
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I guess I am not making myself clear.
I'm not asking for advice on what you think I should do as far as buying the other motor.
Does anyone have anything constructive to put in about what parts to use or upgrades to do? I just want a steady dependable work truck with a better than stock motor.
I'm not asking for advice on what you think I should do as far as buying the other motor.
Does anyone have anything constructive to put in about what parts to use or upgrades to do? I just want a steady dependable work truck with a better than stock motor.
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