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I just got her back on the road after a battle with fuel pressure....I ended up replacing the regulator housing on the fuel bowl and its been going good for two weeks.....until last night......
Last night my truck was idling in the driveway and started running rough. Almost the same symptoms of fuel delivery issues to the fuel bowl.....here is what is happening now.
When I cycle the ignition, I get nothing as far as noises.....no pump noise under the truck(I tapped on the pump thinking it was stuck), no noise on the passenger side inner fender(what ever that pump noise is from over there), I can't hear the solenoid over there clicking either.....no fuel getting to fuel bowl either.....
Any suggestions on where to start? for tools I have basic stuff....test light and volt meter.
I JUST GAVE THIS TRUCK A NEW COAT OF PAINT>>>>>I want to drive it some!
The noise you hear on the passenger side is the vacuum pump running, check the power box under the hood. The real big fuses, sounds like you lost power from that part of the ignition switch, by the way it could also be the ignition switch, with key on make sure those big fuses all have power. The fuel pump should be on a different circuit than the vacuum pump, thats why I mentioned the actual ignition switch, weren't those the ones that were catching fire and killing people? Just kidding that was the car line.
I am guessing you only have so long to check the voltage at the pump once you cycle the key? doesn't it quit pumping after so long until you start the truck?
Is the vacuum pump running? with the key on turn your climate control to def, floor, vent ect. it might have enough vac to not come on. Did you try the fuel pump reset switch, passenger side kick panel push down on the switch. Does your check engine light come on? Ya once the ECU see's the CPS signal it will keep the pump running, you got 5-6 seconds
I double checked the voltage at the pump, this time I left the hot lead on the power side...used a frame bolt for the ground and cycled the key...I have just under 12 volts at the pump, once the cycle is over, it dropped to .01.....I am guessing my pump is shot.....
I double checked the voltage at the pump, this time I left the hot lead on the power side...used a frame bolt for the ground and cycled the key...I have just under 12 volts at the pump, once the cycle is over, it dropped to .01.....I am guessing my pump is shot.....
The PCM commands it to stop after 10-30 seconds. So that appears to be okay. Check your fuel pressure at the bowl. It could be your pump is heading south.
Do you get 12v across the terminals at the pump? If you only see it when using the frame as ground then the problem is with the ground wire or ground coming from the relay.
Seems like you have checked quite a bit I dont remember seeing anything about this....
Check the fuse panel under the dash. 30amp fuse, bottom of the third column.
If it is blown, unplug the bowl heater and replace the fuse n try again.
Here is where I am at.....I unplugged the fuel pump and checked the voltage at the wire connections within the harness first....it was reading 11.9volts. then I plugged the harness back together and checked it at the pump, with the pump hooked up, 10.8volts.
When I have someone turn the key, the pump "jumps" like the it is trying to turn but is stuck....When I say "jumps", i have it out of the frame bracket and on the ground, holding on to it you can feel the power hitting the pump motor, but it isn't spinning...feels stuck to me.
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