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Any other vehicle I would not care about ABS. But my motorhome likes to lock the front brakes because all of the weight is over the rear (dually) axle.
I have a 1994 E350 motor home with 4 wheel ABS and duallys. Before some one says it YES I KNOW IT'S A 94 AND IT IS 4 WHEEL ABS. When I start going down the road the ABS light kicks on almost every time at 5MPH
The codes are:
C1230 Rear speed sensor (put in a new one already, no change)
C1198 Left front isolation/inlet valve coil circuit fault
C1214 Right front isolation/inlet valve coil circuit fault
C1206 Rear inlet Valve Circuit Fault
C1210 Right front Dump/Outlet Valve Coil Circuit Fault
C1202 Rear Dump/Outlet Valve Fault
Lots of views but no replies because so far no one has any experience with this situation. Personally its better to pass a thread by instead of posting wrong info.
I'd try posting this same question in the Brakes sub-forum here on FTE----someone there might be experienced with your chassis and situation.
Those look like OBD-II codes. I know it's a '94, but does it have OBD-II?
If so you need to look at live data. Just because you have a new sensor doesn't mean that it's good, or that there's not a short in the wiring. Look at what your wheel speed sensors are showing when you're driving it, I suspect one of them may be showing an incorrect speed value.
That happened to my '97 when I replaced a wheel bearing. The new tone ring wasn't aligned quite the same with the speed sensor and that caused it to spike to 0 at low speeds causing identical symptoms to what you're experiencing. Bent the sensor a little closer to the tone ring and it started reading correctly and it stopped giving me trouble.
I have the 3 wheel abs system that they call 4 wheel abs in 1994 Ford E350 chassis. 1994 Coachmen Catalina Sport 220RK with 39,551 miles on it. Mine is not OBD-II compliant either. I have replaced the rear sensor and it was bad. I put the old sensor in my Explorer and the abs light came on. So I bought one for Motor home and put the good one back in my Explorer. Brakes stop fine its just that darn ABS light that bugs me. How did you pull your codes?
Thanks, Andy
The ABS unit is on the frame rail under the driver's seat area. Just look to where all the brake lines converge, that's the ABS unit. Have you flushed the brake lines of all the old brake fluid ? Dirty fluid will cause the ABS system to not function.
I took the vehicle to a mechanic and he pulled the codes. It takes a very expensive unit to pull the codes.
I hope you don't need a new control module or a Valve unit. Not even for carries them anymore. I have just given up and come to the conclusion that I will be driving a motorhome that is dangerous when towing my toys UGH!
I found the control box that mounts to the fuel pump rail. It is the same as a 4 wheel club van without dually's in the rear. Not disc brakes in the rear model from 1993-1976. I have worked on ABS brakes for years now and I think mine is the control box being bad or wires that need cleaning. Mine won't even self test. I have not been able to work on mine since I broke my hand 2 weeks ago in a car wreck. My son was driving and a guy pulled out in front of us. Nobody but me was hurt and the other driver which will be fine. The air bag on his 2014 Toyota Tundra that was brand new (now totaled) passenger air bag caught my fingers as I was reaching for the dash. So it will be at lest three months per doctors before I can go back to work on my RV. But please kept me posted.
Thanks, Andy
No I have not flushed any thing or cleaned the connectors yet. I just replaced the bad sensor on the rear end. Sorry for the typing errors. Typing with one hand.
Thanks for the help, Andy
Also I forgot the mention that the left front wheel sensor pulls tight when turning hard to left. A friend of mine told me to look for that. He works at a local ford dealership and has been there as a mechanic for 35 + years. He is going to test mine when he can. I'll let you know what I find out.
Andy
7.5GasHog is this the hydraulic unit you need or maybe me also. I found it on Ebay. I am not paying that much for one. With only 39,790 mile on mine you would think that would not go bad. The Kelsey Hayes units had a lot of trouble with them. I checked the pump motor and it does run fine. My light stays on all the time. It never checks itself on engine restart. I think I am going to pull the bulb or make it real dim with a resistor.
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