No start
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Going to check all electrical connections again, make sure everything is good at the coil, and any issue there might be with the damper. Thanks
Friend recommended pulling up the distributor partially and moving it over one tooth to center the timing. Anyone ever heard of or tried this?
Friend recommended pulling up the distributor partially and moving it over one tooth to center the timing. Anyone ever heard of or tried this?
As it is limited by it's free movement. Then move one tooth over to correct the timing problem..
Orich
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
I wonder if the retainer pin is bad that holds the Dizzy's gear on and in phase. That would cause having to turn the Dizzy a rediculous amount trying to get the timming back in. Ya might mark where th dizzy is now and where the rotor is clocked. Pull the dizzy and look at the gear and it's pin. The pin might have been sheared and the gear spun on the Dizzy's shaft. This happens every once in a while.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 7
From: Gainesville, GA
What Jeff said is right on. I had that problem in the wilderness and solved it with a nail. The roll pin was sheared. You also don't need the retarding vacuum advance. You can put the distributor anywhere you want if the wires are correct and the timing is on. If you pull the distributor out make sure the oil pump rod doesn't come out with it or drops in the pan.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
What Jeff said is right on. I had that problem in the wilderness and solved it with a nail. The roll pin was sheared. You also don't need the retarding vacuum advance. You can put the distributor anywhere you want if the wires are correct and the timing is on. If you pull the distributor out make sure the oil pump rod doesn't come out with it or drops in the pan.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 7
From: Gainesville, GA
A short course on the oil pump drive. It's a 1/4" hex that connects the oil pump with the distributor. There is a pal nut on the bottom that's supposed to hold it in the engine when the distributor is removed, but..... It often breaks and the rod is pulled up with the distributor. It's no big deal if it doesn't fall back down in the oil pan, you just put it back in the oil pump and install the distributor. If it falls it can sometimes be removed with a magnet, I've done it. When you start your engine the first thing to check is the oil pressure.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
A short course on the oil pump drive. It's a 1/4" hex that connects the oil pump with the distributor. There is a pal nut on the bottom that's supposed to hold it in the engine when the distributor is removed, but..... It often breaks and the rod is pulled up with the distributor. It's no big deal if it doesn't fall back down in the oil pan, you just put it back in the oil pump and install the distributor. If it falls it can sometimes be removed with a magnet, I've done it. When you start your engine the first thing to check is the oil pressure.
By reinstalling the oil pump drive rod by just dropping it back in from the dizzy hole is it won't have the retainer lock washer that is suppose to keep it from coming out again when the dizzy is pulled out next time.
My fix is when ever installing a pump drive rod, I use JB weld epoxy to keep it from ever sliding down the shaft any to let this drop out of the pump drive socket place.
Wayback in the early 60's ford used two of these locking washer, one on each end so no one would ever make a mistake putting the rod in upside down. Well guess they wanted to save some money by just using one.
I would slide both of them together to hold it from sliding down any before, I thought of using JB weld to hold it in place..
orich
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Try to turn the rotor by hand. If it turns, the shear pin has gone. Also check your ballast resistor. If it starts while turning over but quits when releasing the key to run. This is most likely the culprit. Did you have the distributor out then turn the motor? Put engine to tdc on the timing marks then start with plug 1 inline with the rotor. If it wont start change the wires 180 degrees. Flip wires that are opposite from each other on the cap and try again you might be on the exhaust stroke with your spark.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Try to turn the rotor by hand. If it turns, the shear pin has gone. Also check your ballast resistor. If it starts while turning over but quits when releasing the key to run. This is most likely the culprit. Did you have the distributor out then turn the motor? Put engine to tdc on the timing marks then start with plug 1 inline with the rotor. If it wont start change the wires 180 degrees. Flip wires that are opposite from each other on the cap and try again you might be on the exhaust stroke with your spark.
But a bad condensor would mimic the same as a bad ballast resistor block.
Orich
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
2X on trying to spin the Dizzy by grabbing the rotor.
2X on changing the condensor. Ford part number C9AZ12300A (DC13A).
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New User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Well...moved the distributor but didn't seem to help. It gets close, but doesn't turn over. Coil and wires all look good, gas at the carb and compression all good. Going to change the electronic ignition otherwise check the timing chain and TDC trick.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2011
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Never pulled the distributior all the way up, only a little to move it over. Doesn't start then stall, gets close but never full catches. Ballast resistor is a great idea too and couldn't hurt either way.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
All most starts but not catching on and run, So if not the condensor, Then can very well be a bad ignition switch.
I'd try adding a hot wire jumper wire from the Hot+battery terminal going to the + wire on the coil. This is where the + hot ign. wire connects at the coil. Remove this wire and put the jumper Hot wire there. Then try starting it with the key..
If it starts then check for bad key switch and burnt switch contacts in it's plug.
This is a common problem with old classics ...Old age setting in on it.
I had this same problem until I changed out to a newer style with the flat switch contacts. The switches with round contacts need the switch & a new plug pigtail is the real fix.
Or do as, I did buy a new switch that has the flat plug contacts an find a new or good used pigtail plug and wire that into your harness.
Orich
I'd try adding a hot wire jumper wire from the Hot+battery terminal going to the + wire on the coil. This is where the + hot ign. wire connects at the coil. Remove this wire and put the jumper Hot wire there. Then try starting it with the key..
If it starts then check for bad key switch and burnt switch contacts in it's plug.
This is a common problem with old classics ...Old age setting in on it.
I had this same problem until I changed out to a newer style with the flat switch contacts. The switches with round contacts need the switch & a new plug pigtail is the real fix.
Or do as, I did buy a new switch that has the flat plug contacts an find a new or good used pigtail plug and wire that into your harness.
Orich
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Sounds like it has jumped time or lost compression.
Yes check your timing. Instead of pulling the dizzy
to change the timing a tooth, just move the wires
around one plug on the cap. Same thing.
Yes check your timing. Instead of pulling the dizzy
to change the timing a tooth, just move the wires
around one plug on the cap. Same thing.
New User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Just went through a similar bout of this on my son's Toyota pickup. It would start and idle perfectly but when you raised the RPM's it would immediately retard the timing. After a lot of trouble shooting it turned out it was the brand new magnetic pickup. On the Toyota it calls for an ohm reading of between 130 - 190 his was at 192. Put the old magnetic pickup in and it ran like a champ.
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