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oil in my reservoir went too low, by the time i filled it with brake fluid it was to late my brakes went soft... what do i do now? please help its my work truck
If your fluid dropped that low you probably have a leak. Check for wet stains at all your calipers. Hard line on the left frame rail above the fuel tank is also know to rust through if you live in an area where corrosion is a problem. Fix the leak then bleed.
If you ran the master dry, you are either metal to metal on all 4 corners or you blew a hose or line period. After you make the repair you have to start all over, bleed the master or it will be damaged, then bleed the calipers. you have to find the leak first. report back
thinking about it i think one of my rear calipers is leaking.. i have been smelling something funny back their for a while now, like a year. btw is bleeding the master and calipers a different procedure... thanks
To bleed the master cylinder, you need to disconnect both hard lines off the master cylinder and install two clear hoses on nipples in the same ports.
Run both hoses back into the top of the brake fluid chamber.
Fill the reservoir with fluid.
Pump the brakes slowly, pressing all the way down to the floor.
Have someone watch the clear hoses while you are pumping the brake pedal, and when they see no more air bubbles coming up from the hoses, your master cylinder is bled.
THEN...
Proceed to bleeding the calipers, right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front... bleed each until no more air comes from the bleeder hose... and MAKE SURE that you check the fluid level about every ten pedal pumps to keep enough fluid level to prevent pulling air back into the master cylinder.
To bleed the master cylinder, you need to disconnect both hard lines off the master cylinder and install two clear hoses on nipples in the same ports.
Run both hoses back into the top of the brake fluid chamber.
Fill the reservoir with fluid.
Pump the brakes slowly, pressing all the way down to the floor.
Have someone watch the clear hoses while you are pumping the brake pedal, and when they see no more air bubbles coming up from the hoses, your master cylinder is bled.
THEN...
Proceed to bleeding the calipers, right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front... bleed each until no more air comes from the bleeder hose... and MAKE SURE that you check the fluid level about every ten pedal pumps to keep enough fluid level to prevent pulling air back into the master cylinder.
When I replaced the rear calipers on mine, they sent both for the passenger side, so the bleeder was at the bottom of the caliper on the driver side and wouldn't let the air out. I took it off and hung it upside down with a bungee, and with a block of wood to act as the rotor, bled like normal. If yours were replaced at some point, this may be the case. Just a thought, as its happened to others as well.
If your fluid dropped that low you probably have a leak. Check for wet stains at all your calipers. Hard line on the left frame rail above the fuel tank is also know to rust through if you live in an area where corrosion is a problem. Fix the leak then bleed.
The speed bleeders fit OEM calipers that have not had the bleeder holes re-tapped. Some rebuilt calipers have had the bleeders screws drilled out(rusted bleeder screws break off) and retapped with slightly larger bleeder screws. It is only obvious if you try to insert a speed bleeder, then you notice that the fit is very sloppy in the threads which makes it difficult to bleed without introducing air. Some people use a little grease on the threads of the speed bleeder to solve this problem.
Larry
The speed bleeders fit OEM calipers that have not had the bleeder holes re-tapped. Some rebuilt calipers have had the bleeders screws drilled out(rusted bleeder screws break off) and retapped with slightly larger bleeder screws. It is only obvious if you try to insert a speed bleeder, then you notice that the fit is very sloppy in the threads which makes it difficult to bleed without introducing air. Some people use a little grease on the threads of the speed bleeder to solve this problem.
Larry
Guess I got lucky. One of the benefits of living down south is very little issues with things rusting. Put them in my F150, wife's Expedition, and my truck. All fit with no problems.
It's good info for the future though. Do you think multiple wraps with Teflon tape would work as well or will brake fluid dissolve it?
Guess I got lucky. One of the benefits of living down south is very little issues with things rusting. Put them in my F150, wife's Expedition, and my truck. All fit with no problems.
It's good info for the future though. Do you think multiple wraps with Teflon tape would work as well or will brake fluid dissolve it?
Paul, I don't think that teflon tape is meant for repeated tightening and loosening like you do during brake bleeding. The speed bleeders will still work in a retapped caliper with a little grease on the threads to prevent air from being sucked in. The bleeders still rely on the tapered end of the bleeder screw to seal the caliper when done bleeding, so the threads are only an issue during the bleeding process.
Another benefit of some grease on the threads is that the screws will always work, even in a corrosive environment like the snow belt. Any bolt with thin coatings of zinc or other rust prevention coating will benefit from a little grease on the threads. (Like those older headlight rim mounting and alignment screws).
Don't use grease on lug nuts though-can cause those tires to run away from not enough lug holding power!
Larry
Paul, I don't think that teflon tape is meant for repeated tightening and loosening like you do during brake bleeding. The speed bleeders will still work in a retapped caliper with a little grease on the threads to prevent air from being sucked in. The bleeders still rely on the tapered end of the bleeder screw to seal the caliper when done bleeding, so the threads are only an issue during the bleeding process.
Another benefit of some grease on the threads is that the screws will always work, even in a corrosive environment like the snow belt. Any bolt with thin coatings of zinc or other rust prevention coating will benefit from a little grease on the threads. (Like those older headlight rim mounting and alignment screws).
Don't use grease on lug nuts though-can cause those tires to run away from not enough lug holding power!
Larry
Thanks Larry. So they will still snug up just loose when you back them out to bleed. Good tip.