Were you having this issue with the ICP before the oil cooler work?

 

Yes and no. It was miss-wired, had the reference volts and another wire swapped. I left it disconnected because the engine will run without it connected. I have since fixed it. It read .02v before KOEO and now reads the .25v KOEO. The truck acted the same way it's acted now, connected or not.

 

I cant see why you couldn't use a another PCM from the same year but im not sure if there would be any issues, I would think it would be plug and play, hopefully someone else with more experience on this type of issue will chime in. In your video you said the intake was not installed, by that did you mean the air filter is not installed or the intake manifold?

 

The air filer is not installed. Only from the filter minder to the turbo is installed so it breathes freely. I have red elsewhere that if you use another PCM it may run but run rough/differently until it is flashed by a dealer. I'm hunting for a PCM with the same Part number that I have installed because if it doesn't run it's kind of hard to get it to the dealer.
Also ICP is in Kpa. 1Kpa=.14psi. So 10000Kpa=1400Psi

 

You say that you have a glow plug code...do you know if the glow plugs are lighting up when you key on? I know sometimes on my truck if I'm playing around with the AE and the glow plugs time out from taking so long my truck will crank crank and crank until it pops into my pea brain that the glow plugs have shut off. One quick cycle of the key and wait till glow plug light turns off she roars right to life in the first 2 seconds. Might be an area to check for ya...

 

I can only assume. The coil appears on the dash then goes away then I crank it. I've also done the quick key off then on and try cranking with these same results.

 

I've never tried this myself but you may be able to unplug the glow plug harness where it drops down on the heads (each connection should be on top of your intake manifold on either side) and use a multi meter to make sure your getting some volts down to the glow plugs. Seems like your so close to starting and your other vitals seem ok (except for that weird 0 volts icp thing).

 

Wouldn't it be easier to plug the truck in overnight and see if it cranks. Or does plugging it in provide enough heat to make a difference? I really don't know. I didn't think the glow plugs were even necessary above 90 degrees.

 

Not sure about this one and it might be nothing but when I removed my IPR valve to check the IPR I did a volt check on the connector. I can't remember if the key was on or off but it showed the same volts as the batteries which tell me the IPR valve is constantly powered? Is that right? Does it not only get power when commanded by the PCM?

 

IPR default is open. The spring holds the valve open until the ipr coil is energized to close and compress the spring. so, yes. I think the ipr should not have any voltage going to it until the key is turnedn on. And then the voltage will be variable base on how much to close the valve. That needs to be confirmed by someone else. With the pcm diagram, you can check the output of the pcm pins. You will have to remove the drivers side battery and jumper it to the canbles.

 

Maybe some of this may help.

CHECKING ICPV
Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.82 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.

Press Press Sensor
(PSI) (MPA) Voltage
0 0 .02v
200 1.5 .4v
400 3 0.73v
600 4 .96v
800 5.5 1.2v
1000 7 1.4v
1200 8 1.6v
1400 9.7 1.9v
1600 11 2.1v
1800 12.4 2.3v
2000 13.8 2.6v
2200 15.2 2.8v
2400 16.5 3v
2600 18 3.3v
2800 19.3 3.5v
3000 20.6 3.8v


CHECKING IPR
You can test the electrical side of the IPR like this. Pull out the middle PCM connector and ohm out pin #2 of the PCM connector (yellow with red stripe coloured wire) to the positive terminal of the driver side battery at key-on/engine-off. A good IPR should read about 6.0 ohms.

GLOW PLUG CHECK
Disconnect the four-wire connector to the passenger side glow plug harness (the one with the red lock tab). Using your ohm meter (and the appropriate scale if it doesn't have the auto-range feature), connect the black lead to the passenger side negative battery cable and the red lead to each of the four cavities on the glow plug harness end. You should obtain readings between 0.5 to 2.0 ohms on all four circuits (cylinders #1, #3, #5 and #7).
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Install an inductive ammeter on one bank at one of the two harnesses at the Glow Plug Controller Module (GPCM). You can get up to 200 A at first, but then should stabilize around 35-45 A. Check the other bank with the inductive ammeter. Both sides should read the same. If not, check the amps to each individual glow plug to determine which one (or ones) is bad. Each glow plug should draw 10-12 Amps.

Fuseable link for glow plugs about 4"" down the harness from where it connects to pass side battery. take the tape off. should be going under your a/c line.

All this information comes from the 2006 Service Manual.

Glow plug on time is dependent on oil temperature and altitude. The GPCM will
command the glow plugs on for 1 to 120 seconds. The GPCM does not operate
if the oil temperature is above 55C (131F)
It looks like the GPCM is really 2 units in one box.
Glow plug to ground 0.1~2 Ohms
Glow plug connector to GPCM connector Less that 5 Ohms

Pin #3 on both is the VBattery

Green connector
pin #1 is gp#5
pin #2 is gp#7
pin #6 is gp#1
pin #7 is gp#3
pin 8 goes to the PCM
pin 9 goes to the PCM

Black connector
pin #1 is gp#6
pin #2 is gp#8
pin #6 is gp#2
pin #7 is gp#4
pin 9 goes to the VPwr

The Glow Plug length of operation (up to 120 seconds) depends on oil temperature and the BARO reading. Glow plugs are not operated if the oil temperature is above 131 *F (55*C). The Glow Plug system is PCM controlled. The Wait-To-Start light is initiated by the PCM and is independent of the Glow Plug system. Above 131 *F, the PCM will still bulb-check the Wait-To_Start light. The GPM (GlowPlugMonitor) system (part of the OBDII system) is designed to monitor and detect failed glow plugs or failed wiring in the Glow Plug System.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ce-manual.html

 

CHECKING IPR
You can test the electrical side of the IPR like this. Pull out the middle PCM connector and ohm out pin #2 of the PCM connector (yellow with red stripe coloured wire) to the positive terminal of the driver side battery at key-on/engine-off. A good IPR should read about 6.0 ohms.

This is just checking the wiring from the PCM plug to the IPR valve correct? Is it done with the IPR connected or disconnected?

 

The IPR should be connected. It assumes the harness is good and you're reading the resistance of the solenoid coil in the IPR to verify it's ok. So, you're testing the electrical side of the IPR. Open or no resistance might be a harness issue.

 

I think you can check the the pcm voltage output to the ipr by checking these same wires with the pcm connector plugged in at koeo, and during crank. I don't know what that value should be but I wouldn't think it would be 12v during either ..... Unless the ipr is commanded shut.

 

Ok I just verified a couple things
1: KOEO IPR connector is getting a constant voltage input. it shows battery voltage so in this case it showed 12.9v. Everything is connected and I disconnected the IPR connector from the IPR vlave and checked voltage and that is what I got.
This brings up a couple questions:
The IPR valve is being constantly powered
Wouldn't this burn out my IPR valves since during testing you can ony apply 12v for a limited amount of time.
2: I Ohm'd the #2 pin on the middle PCM connector KOEO and on 20K on my multimeter I got 5.69 ohms any lower for example if I set my Multimeter to 200 I get somewhere in the vacinity of 50-70+ ohms is that right?
So now I am not sure if it's the PCM or something telling the PCM to put the constant voltage to the IPR valve.