I am in the middle of replacing the lifter galley (aka push rod cover) gasket.

I ended up removing my entire distributor (I snapped a bolt, separate thread on that).

I'm stuck again. Sorry guys. I guess I'm in over my head, but I've come this far...

I can't figure out how to get the oil dip stick off. The dipstick has a bracket that secures it to one of the push rod cover bolts. See photo below:


I broke the nut loose (its a 16mm), but its turning the entire shaft of the dipstick tube. I suspect that it is not supposed to do this, because it bends the bracket as the bracket is still on the screw.

However, I can't pull the bracket off the screw unless I remove the dipstick tube. The bracket seems to be spot welded to the dipstick tube.

Is my solution here to cut the bracket? Or is the dipstick tube nut supposed to loosen without rotating the dipstick tube itself?

Thanks again folks. And, yes, as you can see, my 4.9 leaks a lot of oil.

 

Anybody???

 

I realize this is an old thread, but I too am trying to replace my leaking push rod cover (1990 F-150 4.9L), and am wondering the same thing about how to remove the dipstick tube. Hopefully you eventually got it off and you still remember how you removed it.

 

The 16mm needs to be loosened to remove the bracket. On mine it was easy but you may have to hold the bracket with some pliers or vice grips to brake that nut loose.

 

Thanks for your response. I was able to easily loosen the 16mm nut, but like the OP stated, the entire tube spun along with the nut. Is the nut supposed to rotate without the tube spinning with it? So, when you write "...you may have to hold the bracket with some pliers or vice grips to brake that nut loose," I suspect you mean to break the nut loose from the tube, not from the male thread?

 

Yes from the tube. I am sure I would reemeber if the 16mm nut and the tube would have seized together. That would make removing the bracket from the push rod cover stud almost impossible.

I am sure you know but when you install the cover with the new gasket be careful not to overtorque the bolts. Since my cover isn't straight anymore I opted for tightening them without a torque wrench. I was very careful though and started very light. If it was still leaking I tight end some more. Took me 3-4 rounds of retigtening till it was sealed.

 

Ok, thanks. I unsuccessfully attempted to break the nut free from the tube today. So, I've sprayed with PB plaster, and will continue to, while I wait for the gasket to arrive.

 

I left my dipstick tube in place, and just kinda gently bent it out of the way when I replaced my lifter cover gasket, and bent it back into place once it was finished. .

 

I tried that but it didn't work for me. Maybe i was just to chicken to really bent it but then again I didn't have an issue with the nut.

 

Push rod cover bolts should be tightened to 18-27 INCH POUNDS. That is 1 1/2 to 2.25 Foot pounds. You can buy an inch torque wrench, or just take it easy. You can use a little rtv on the gasket to hold it in place. Warm the truck up and make sure you have no leaks. Drive it a few miles and check it again. You can lose a lot of oil in a short period of time. If you like a clean engine bay you can paint it while it's out. Sandy

 

Thanks for all the input. I sprayed with PB plaster yesterday; this afternoon, I was able to free the tube from the nut with an open wrench on the nut and holding the tube in place with pliers.

 

Yes, I've seen both of these warnings a few times in my search results. I do have an inch-lb torque wrench, and I plan to take the advice of securing the gasket to the cover with silicone prior to installing it. Thanks for the note. .

 

You're welcome. I used cork gaskets both times I did it with good results.

 

Responding for posterity:

The dipstick tube is flared for the rear of block located tubes, near the sending unit/ oil filter. You loosen that adapter as mentioned, but then the whole thing needs to be pulled as an assembly, the tube won't just pull out of that threaded adapter.

Learned this as my core was missing it, and donor engine had one busted off and noted the flare.