Electric radiator fan
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If I remember correctly, a 96 to 98 Windstar is a very close fit. There are two fans that can very easily put on separate circuits. The one I saw, had the smaller fan come on with A/C activates, and the larger one with the engine temp. I have one, but have not hooked it up yet on my sons 98 SCab 4x4 with a 5.4l.
I do know that you will need a 70 amp MINIMUM for running both fans through one controller, and if 2 controllers, no smaller than 40 amps each.
I do know that you will need a 70 amp MINIMUM for running both fans through one controller, and if 2 controllers, no smaller than 40 amps each.
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Senior User
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From: Geary OK
After further review I think the flexalite may be the way to go. I drive about 1100 miles a week and a used fan could spell trouble. I can pick one up for about 150 so that's not bad.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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Just some comment on fan cooling.
The stock fan moves at least 2500 cfm of air with it's shroud in place.
You need near that much capability to cool reliably over the seasons of the year.
Fans with this rate of flow consume a lot of current such that your control circuit, temperature sensing and wiring have to be up to the task for reliability.
The factory control on these fans is quite involved and integrated with their PCM.
One example of a popular fan was the Lincoln Mark 8. That fan consumes near 140 amps at full starting current. This fan was used on a similar engine as in these trucks.
Electric fans are not all free power because the power to run the fans comes from the alternator which is still driven by the motor and consume as much as 8 hp +/- under full load. The rough rule is 1-1/2 hp per 1000 watts generated.
The Mark 8 fan could draw as much as ( 140 amps X 14 volts )= 1960 watts upon starting plus other vehicle loads that add to the total, at different times.
The perceived gain is the difference between the mechanical fan and the electric fan operation is the "on to off time ratio" during use.
Battery and alternator have to be up to the job long term.
The only gains are when the electric fan/s are not running (on/off ratio) as opposed to a mechanical fan that may be powered when it's clutch engages more often due to temperature changes from the radiator/thermostat operation.
Good luck.
The stock fan moves at least 2500 cfm of air with it's shroud in place.
You need near that much capability to cool reliably over the seasons of the year.
Fans with this rate of flow consume a lot of current such that your control circuit, temperature sensing and wiring have to be up to the task for reliability.
The factory control on these fans is quite involved and integrated with their PCM.
One example of a popular fan was the Lincoln Mark 8. That fan consumes near 140 amps at full starting current. This fan was used on a similar engine as in these trucks.
Electric fans are not all free power because the power to run the fans comes from the alternator which is still driven by the motor and consume as much as 8 hp +/- under full load. The rough rule is 1-1/2 hp per 1000 watts generated.
The Mark 8 fan could draw as much as ( 140 amps X 14 volts )= 1960 watts upon starting plus other vehicle loads that add to the total, at different times.
The perceived gain is the difference between the mechanical fan and the electric fan operation is the "on to off time ratio" during use.
Battery and alternator have to be up to the job long term.
The only gains are when the electric fan/s are not running (on/off ratio) as opposed to a mechanical fan that may be powered when it's clutch engages more often due to temperature changes from the radiator/thermostat operation.
Good luck.
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