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I have heard about the G2G. To bad its a little too far for me here in VA.
I have been thinking about the DS conversion. I believe it just has to pass a visual inspection. I actually have everything needed except for the dizzy.
I am looking forward to seeing your numbers on the return trip.
Also I believe that 4wd has a direct effect on mpgs even when your not using it. Extra weight on the truck + extra parts causing friction. I have two friends with 90's rangers one 2wd and the other 4wd and the mpg difference between them is substantial.
Yes, there is some additional drag with 4wd, but Dad's was getting 14+ on the highway if I kept it to 65 MPH, and that's with a 351M, a 4bbl carb, and 3.50 gears. But, I was running a ZF5 manual tranny with OD. So at the same RPM you run at 55 I was running 65+. So don't assume that you can't get good MPG just because you have 4wd.
If everything is right, it should cruise right along with everyone else. My old diesel does it fine. I have taken it on several interstate trips.
I-81 is getting a reputation nationwide I believe. It is pretty bad sometimes.
Yep, I dislike 81, but mostly 'cause the semis get side-by-side and can't pass, or won't. Much more fun to go down past Bill's place.
Originally Posted by 84StraightSix
Ok so plan of action
Try to time vehicle again
Check engine codes
Manually check gear ratio.
Im just afraid of how fast the engine will be turning at 70mph
You don't have to run 70. You can do 65 and be fine. And don't sweat the axle ratio. I think it is 3.08 but you either are going faster than 55 or the tach is wrong.
Its a good time.....If you watch the race ill be in one of the clean up trucks not sure which one yet....I'm a new guy so if there's a wreck I cant get out of the truck...hopefully next year!
Those tires are 28.9" tall. The NP235 won't slip and has a 1:1 4th gear, so with 3.08 gears you should be turning 1969 rpm. With those tires and that trans 3.27 gears would put you at 2100 rpm, somewhere around 3.34 (if there was such a thing) would be 2200. So 2100 - 2200 definitely seems high for 3.08 gears.
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
With EEC IV you can't just spin the dizzy to adjust timing. I assume you know that?
Are you sure of that? My '97 F-250 is EEC-IV and I was told in the '87 - '96 forum that I could still adjust timing like that. And when I did I was able to get it to knock if I went too far and got rid of the knock by backing it off, so it seems to work on the '97 EEC-IV anyway.
My understanding is that there is a crank sensor on those and you can't just spin the dizzy to change the timing since the computer determines when the ignition is supposed to go. But, there is a way by using the SPOUT connector to adjust the timing.
On the EECIV's with a distributor, you have to take the spout connector loose before you adjust the timing. The computer assumes it's set at a certain spot, and then adds or subtracts the timing from there according to all the sensors and the programming. That value listed on the radiator support is with the spout disconnected.
If you do not disconnect the spout, and try to set it to the value on the radiator sticker or in the book, you will be way off, since the computer is already adding or subtracting some timing value. By taking the spout connector off, you are taking the computer out of the equation and can then set it to the spec on the sticker or the book.
You certainly can change the timing without disconnecting it, but who knows where you are at, and if you put it in the wrong place, you are limiting the control the computer has over the timing if you get it too far out of the "window" or range of adjustment.
Yeah, the EEC-IVs don't have a crank sensor. The computer must get it's base timing from the distributor. So turning the distributor does change timing just like you'd expect.
As far as the SPOUT connector is concerned, it's the same as the vacuum advance on an older distributor. You can check and set the timing with it connected, but you aren't seeing or setting the base timing. The rule in timing an older distributor is keep the engine at idle to keep the centrifugal advance out and disconnect the vacuum line to keep the vacuum advance out. then you're dealing with only the base timing. The EEC-IV is the same, time it at idle and with the SPOUT removed to keep the "centrifugal" and "vacuum" advance out, but in the case of the EEC-IV the computer is taking readings from sensors and adjusting timing rather than actual centrifugal weights or a vacuum diaphragm, and pulling the SPOUT tells the computer to ignore all that and leave it at base timing.
I know its been a couple of weeks so I figured I would give an update. As for the timing that has been put off for probably a couple of weeks. I need to source a timing light and the help of a good friend. Also currently it is my Daily Driver the mustang is down for some repairs. I didn't want to start messing with it just in case I did something and then it wouldn't run right.
I have worked on the truck though. I bought new shocks for all four corners and I sourced an interior light from the local junk yard. Its probably the piece I've been most excited about getting.
I also promised a few pictures for the Richmond race and I have a picture of my door label just for reference.
Door Label
Brand new Chevy 2500HD that we rode on sticker price $58,000
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
