So I have a question... 96 E350... I noticed at the last oil change that the front seal is apparently leaking on my 460. Not enough to drip while parked, but enough to leak during operation. Enough that I will need to replace the gasket. So the question is, how much of a pain is it in the van to do this? I haven't looked closely at what may need to be moved or removed to get full access to the pan. Am I in for a real chore here? Also, with it just about to turn 120k, this would be a good time to replace the timing chain and maybe even the oil pump, no? Any other tips on stuff to replace at the same time for preventative maintenance?

 

per the autozone repair section:


1992-96 MODELS
See Figure 7

Drain the cooling system and crankcase.

Remove the alternator and power steering belts.

Remove the radiator shroud, fan and fan clutch.

Remove the water pump pulley.

Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and the automatic transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator.

Remove the radiator upper support and the radiator.

If equipped, remove the alternator splash shield.

Loosen the alternator pivot and mounting bolts.

Remove the alternator

Remove the alternator adjusting bracket from the water pump.

Remove the air pump.

Remove the alternator and air pump bracket.

Remove the pulley from the power steering pump.

Remove the power steering pump brace.

Disconnect and cap the lines from the power steering pump, then remove the pump.

Remove the A/C compressor and the compressor/power steering pump bracket.

Remove the crankshaft pulley from the vibration damper. Remove the bolt and washer attaching the crankshaft damper and remove the damper with a puller.

Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft.

Loosen the by-pass hose at the water pump and disconnect the heater return tube at the water pump.

Remove the bolts attaching the front cover to the cylinder block. Cut the oil pan seal flush with the cylinder block face with a thin knife blade prior to separating the cover from the cylinder block. Remove the cover and water pump as an assembly. Discard the front cover gasket and oil pan seal.

Place the front seal removing tool (Ford part no. T70P-6B070-B or equivalent) into the front cover plate and over the front of the seal.

Tighten the two through bolts to force the seal puller under the seal flange, then alternately tighten the four puller bolts a half turn at a time to pull the oil seal from the cover.

 

Thanks, I was thinking more along of the lines about hearing from someone that's done it on a van, especially a 350 if that makes a difference, and has any gotchas or tricks to share.

 

I've done the timing chain/cover gasket/front seal on the 351W, just 2 months ago on my '92. Done a couple of other over the years.

You asked about the 460, which I've never worked on, or owned/driven.

As that outline is posted, that's about what is needed to get to the front seal/timing chain and cover.

You do not need to remove the alt, power steering pump, or AC pump, just loosen the brackets, and swing them out of the way of the water pump.

But you do want to set the crank on TDC before you remove the Harmonic Balancer, to set the timing chain with the 2 marks on the gears.
The Woodruff key will be at 12:00 o'clock.

The hardest part I ran into was removing the water pump, that took over 4 hours, and 4 busted off bolts later.........

The last ya-hoo that replaced the water pump on my 'new to me van with 104k on the clock, never used pipe seal on the water pump bolts, that's why they snapped off.

By the time I got to the timing chain, with the slack in it, it was not OEM, and the front cover gasket was the aftermarket one.

So, replaced the timing chain, used a new cover gasket (in which you cut off the front part of the oil pan gasket) and new front seal, and put everything back together, with making some new water pump bolts, that was 2 days killed.

As far as replacing the oil pump, if your oil pressure is steady on the gauge, That should last the life of the engine. If the pressure is very low at idle, that's the main bearing wearing out.

Oh, and did I mention that working on vans is a real PITA. That's why WE as van owners need to do our own work, cause most shops don't want to work on them

 

oil pump will require pan removal and that means in most cases pulling the engine. Replace the pressure sender 1st and see if that makes any difference as with most electronic stuff it does fail with time. I just had the OP in my ranger done as it was apart for a suspect rear main seal leak and clutch R&R. Cost me $200 more to have the pan gasket replaced (it was seeping/leaking) and since it was off I redid the oil pump for GP's. Shows good pressure but it bounces which I found was often due to bad/loose electrical connection on the sender.

again go to the autozone site and check out the repair guides to help with your questions, its free!

 

Thanks. I'm not having any issue with the oil pressure. I was just thinking that if I was replacing the gaskets, maybe I may as well just replace the pump, timing chain, etc. Van's running fine at 119k miles, just wondering if preventative maintenance was the right thing to do alongside the seal repair.

 

Yes.

With 100k+, in concert with, the vehicle's age--and, your planning to keep the vehicle, I'd take it all the way down to a short block. (I know very well that the intake manifold end seals are leaking at this point.)

You're way ahead money wise to do everything at one time. Additionally, it's much easier to get around in that
engine compartment with the motor stripped down. Also, it's gotta be taken down to raise the motor enough to get the pan off when the transmission is bolted up.

Another issue: some of the exhaust manifold studs/bolts are likely loose and/or broken and in need of attention (tapping the bolt holes etc.)

Another issue: trans. needs to have front pump bushing replaced. (Replace engine crankshaft rear main seal, too, if you get this far.)

Over 100K? Rod bearings for sure. And the oil pump. Additionally, the harmonic balancer, water pump, thermostat, belts, hoses, timing chain and gears, timing cover, rocker arms (if pedestal style). Radiator needs cleaned or replaced if any integrity issues. Knock out core plugs and flush block if any doubt about the cooling system not being properly maintained. Hell, do it anyway. Fan clutch needs to go with 100K+. Valve job anybody?

If you don't replace the timing cover, clean it up like a new one and inspect before reuse. I recommend you replace with new. These timing covers take a beating and they're aluminum.

 

I don't mind the size of the task. I love working on cars and this is the first 'major' work (other than oil changes, routine maintenance) that my son will be observing. He's old enough now to start wrenchin'.

At the time I do the seal replacement, I am planning to replace the following:

Timing chain
Serpentine belt
Hoses
T-stat
Tune-up, (of course, why not).
Water pump, (again, sound PM in my mind anyway).
Clean TB and MAF, (and anything else anyone thinks should be cleaned up).

I was not planning to strip it to a short block. I am not a 460 expert but I am not aware of any exhaust leaks or any issues with the manifold end seals. It runs great and the only issue I've seen is the slowly leaking front seal. Looks like the front seal anyway. Why do you say all those things are surely wrong with the engine at this point? Those items are not on the list for this project...

 

That's a no-no. The pan gaskets on these engines are one piece rubber and are not suitable for that kind of repair. You'll end up with a vacuum leak at the oil pan rail. Oil leak, too, before it's over.

 

So I was going through the how-to for cleaning the MAF sensor, and have a quick stupid question... Where do I find it? Is it inline with the two big air intake hoses? I can't see without taking off the air cleaner and doghouse which I haven't done yet...

 

It's mounted to the end of the air cleaner base. BTW: most of what we were discussing previously had to do with your using the term "preventative maintenance."

I gotta say: you said your van is running great. If it were me ..., I'd leave the TB and MAF alone. Idle's great? Leave 'em alone.

One more maintenance item: if equipped with the factory engine oil cooler, replace the engine oil cooler O-rings. There are four (4) O-rings total. Clean cooler and inspect for corrosion etc. Repaint if needed.

 

So, I don't have anything on the air cleaner except tubes and an air filter. Is the MAF sensor mounted on the TB? I can't see it anywhere along the routing of the tubing.

 

par the AZ site

Mass Air Flow Sensor
1996 Ford Truck E350 1 ton Van EFI 8cyl 460
The Mass Air Flow Sensor is located:
Under hood, center, upper engine area, mounted on air filter housing

 

Crazy, I don't have any electrical components or wiring on the air cleaner assembly at all. 6 air hoses, the air box, and that's all.

What's the component mounted to the driver's side of the throttle body, any idea?

 

That's the throttle position sensor (TPS).

Go to Motorcraft.com. Load your vehicle in and look at the exploded drawing in the appropriate link. You will see the MAF located between the air cleaner top and the attaching hose connection at the air cleaner.