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I was thinking that 16" would be about right. This should allow plenty of room to turn wrench's even with a short cheater bar, but low enough the reach up into the engine area. Just my opinion.
I found out the curb weight of the truck, it is within specs for the ramps which are rated for 6500 lbs. the truck is in the 5500 lbs territory (F250hd, 2x4, x-cab, C-6, 460cid-- same as base F350).
That's why I love the air jack w/ built in locks..
If you manage to knock that sucker down, you must have hit it with a train...
Also nice to have a pit.
Just gotta get the lift installed, and my spine will love me forever, as will the life insurance company, I'm sure..
try this for a set of heavy duty ramps bolted 4 railroad ties together used roof bolts with couter sunk double washers then took a chain saw and cut them apart with a angle to make the ramp, on top i used the tip of the saw to make a cup in each one, i also made a couple of wedges by cutting diagoly thru a 4x4, i can hail these to lock the wheels i made 2 sets so when i drive truck upon them its like a portalbe lift, downside is there heavy as hell, good side is their foot print is lage enough it dosnt sink into the groun when the trucks on them, because of the cresote they wont rot
This past Christmas my father in law made me and my brother in law each a pair of ramps as a present.
He made them out of pressure treated 2x10's, screwed together. started out with about a 42" long piece, and they get progressively smaller till you get to the top which is about 16" long or so. I have my f-150 with 6" and 35's my bro-in-law drives an acura integra, and we both go up them no problem. About midway up the back of the ramp, he drove in 2 big screw eyes, and added about an 8" piece of nylon rope as a handle. He has used a similar setup for his Peterbilt for eons now, and since its solid, theres not really any chance of collapsing.
The only problem that i have found... is that they are heavy as all get out though I haven't tried them on concrete as far as slipping (like the metal ones do) but if there would ever be a problem, i think a piece of tire casing (like from a retread) fastened to the bottom would be plenty grippy
I've quit using ramps and jackstands completely, and collect appropriate-sized clean steel rims instead because they are highly stable and don't sink much in soft ground.
Just lift your truck/car/whatever with a floor or Hi-Lift jack and slide the rims inder the tires, which they cup safely. For extra height, either nest smaller rims in larger rims, or weld the edges together. Rims may also be set vertically in other rims (a salvage yard in San Antonio has hundreds of vehicles supported this way).
When supporting frames or other areas, 4x4 blocks nestled inside horizontal rims provide finer height adjustment/cushioning. 4x4s are tough, and if you use pressure-treated wood and slather it with used motor oil (treated wood is very absorbent) they will last for years.
Great idea on the rims, but don't use concrete blocks! They fail all at once, and the truck comes crashing down. Many have died due to concrete block failure (I cannot recall the source, but I've read that a number of times).
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.