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Is a Honeywell IPR 01621592 a good unit? How far should the throw be when pushing in the solenoid with a screwdriver? I'm getting about 1/8" if movement. Good news is the screen looks good and no green Dorman gasket debris.
Got a OTC IPR tester today. Tested my IPR out of the truck and I hear nor feel any click, not even questionable. I tested the output voltage of the tester and it is at 4.89 or so. With the IPR energized I am still able to push the plunger in with a screw driver with very little effort and it returns to its original position under the power of the spring. With my basic understanding of the IPR valve this leads me to believe that the valve is bad and the cause of my no start. Any input would be great
Last edited by BigGreenEx; Sep 2, 2014 at 09:26 PM.
Reason: New information
1/8" sounds like what I found with
the used IPR that I have. It does not
take much to bleed off the high pressure
oil. Not a lot of volume to move.
Did you get any access to scan tools?
If you do you can pull the FICM relay and crank
with the key and check the ICP to see what
your getting. Easy check without a total reassembly.
I was getting high 200's to low/mid 300's at my ICP when getting a cranking reading from my Edge Evolution CS. I have a IPR controller showing up tomorrow to test movement in the IPR.
Have an Edge Evolution CS that I've been getting diagnostic information from. Had high 200's to mid 300's before removing IPR. I have a IPR controller showing up tomorrow to test movement in the IPR.
I have an IPR controller I use for leak checking the HPOP system. From experience and talking to others 12volts nor an IPR controller will not compress the spring, just energize the solenoid in the valve. I've held an IPR valve in my hand and turned on the controller a click is all that is felt.
Last edited by f350project; Sep 1, 2014 at 07:47 PM.
Reason: Quoted wrong post
Here is the funny thing about that valve as I understand it.
It's normally closed by a spring and the
oil pressure overcomes that spring.
The power that is applied to that coil helps
to keep it closed not to open it. So if you did
hear a click then the valve was not closed like
it should be.
By pushing it open with a screwdriver tip you can flush
it out with carb or brake cleaner. I would use carb myself.
But you just push it open and spray into that same end
and see what is flushed out.
only 2004 MY engines have the early/late difference. 05 was all the same. Personally I would be looking at dummy plugs and updated standpipes if nothing obvious is wrong with the ipr. You can remove the valve covers and see by the head of the stand pipes and dummy plugs installed. The original had a 1/2" square for a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove them and the updated ones have a 12 MM allen i believe.
Reread post #2 the valve will not make any sounds
when powered. It starts in a closed state and the
oil pushes it open. The power applied will hold it closed.
Got about 4.9 when it evened out. After putting air to where the screen would normally go and hitting the switch, there is a distinct thunk and noticeable difference in airflow through the valve. Should it stop all airflow? Or just drop it down significantly?