New Test Results
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 385
Likes: 13
From: Stanwood, WA
I've read normally open and normally closed, that is why I applied power and attempted to push in the plunger with a screw driver. Theory being if the power holds it closed, then, although I like to believe I'm super strong, I don't think I would be able to push the plunger in. At least not if its designed to hold back 3,000 psi.
FTE Remembers
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
So when you appied air and powered the valve you
got a closing sound and still had air flowing?
It takes a little bit to push oil out of the rails.
The in coming air at about 100 PSI . Take you ear
and listen to see where the leak is at. The passenger side
valve cover is easy it has a built in stethoscope. For the other
locations a bit of pipe if paper towel tube help to get a better
sound location. If you have the turbo off also listen to the drain
hold on the side of the HPOP cover.
Sean
got a closing sound and still had air flowing?
It takes a little bit to push oil out of the rails.
The in coming air at about 100 PSI . Take you ear
and listen to see where the leak is at. The passenger side
valve cover is easy it has a built in stethoscope. For the other
locations a bit of pipe if paper towel tube help to get a better
sound location. If you have the turbo off also listen to the drain
hold on the side of the HPOP cover.
Sean
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 385
Likes: 13
From: Stanwood, WA
No, I'm doing this out of the truck.
I placed about 80 psi to the end of the IPR, where the screen normally goes. It pushed out the oil and then let air flow through the holes on the side of the outer cylinder. I then applied power and although the air slowed down it did not stop air flow out of the holes on the outer cylinder. I'm wondering if this is normal or if it should stop all air flow out of the holes.
I placed about 80 psi to the end of the IPR, where the screen normally goes. It pushed out the oil and then let air flow through the holes on the side of the outer cylinder. I then applied power and although the air slowed down it did not stop air flow out of the holes on the outer cylinder. I'm wondering if this is normal or if it should stop all air flow out of the holes.
FTE Remembers
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Well the pintail should seal the opening but I am not
sure if it would seal 100% or not. Never tried it out
of an engine. If I had a known good valve I would
give it a try. I do have a used valve in she garage
but I don't know if it's good or a dud. Let me go play
with it and I'll report back.
Sean
sure if it would seal 100% or not. Never tried it out
of an engine. If I had a known good valve I would
give it a try. I do have a used valve in she garage
but I don't know if it's good or a dud. Let me go play
with it and I'll report back.
Sean
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 385
Likes: 13
From: Stanwood, WA
That would be awesome, I'm really getting frustrated. Not how I wanted to spend money and time on our new Ex. I was thinking something a little more optional for my first venture into working on my 6.0.
FTE Remembers
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Well I had 2 valves. One with a known bad coil.
The coil was removed some time ago just for S&G.
The other I have not messed with.
So I got my air nozzle with the rubber cone tip
and pushed air into the one without a coil got air
leaking after the oil forced out. I then stuck a donut
magnet on it to act as a coil would. Not much of anything
at that point and that was with 125 PSI.
The other PCR really set air past and even with power
applied it still let air past just the same. BTW it came in
a lot of junk parts so most likely was dead anyway. My
DMM was not right at hand. But like I said it was blowing air.
When you pushed the screwdriver down into it did you also
flush it out?
Sean
The coil was removed some time ago just for S&G.
The other I have not messed with.
So I got my air nozzle with the rubber cone tip
and pushed air into the one without a coil got air
leaking after the oil forced out. I then stuck a donut
magnet on it to act as a coil would. Not much of anything
at that point and that was with 125 PSI.
The other PCR really set air past and even with power
applied it still let air past just the same. BTW it came in
a lot of junk parts so most likely was dead anyway. My
DMM was not right at hand. But like I said it was blowing air.
When you pushed the screwdriver down into it did you also
flush it out?
Sean
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 385
Likes: 13
From: Stanwood, WA
No, got off work late and didn't have a chance to stop by the auto parts store. I'll have to try for tomorrow. Looks like I'll be ordering yet another tool/part to run diagnostics, need to put air to the ICP. I really want to say thank you for the information, I'd be lost without all the information here.
FTE Remembers
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
If you use the search tool at the top you should be able to find the
metric thread size and type for the ICP fitting and pick that up at
any hydraulic shop. Then your set to go with pressure test on the
HPOP system.
I have the silly thing here but don't know the size or pitch.
NOTE : I just looked it up M12x1.5
BTW it's O-ringed. So that is M12X1.5 male to 1/8 or 1/4 female pipe
for you air line into it. Just tell the person that you also need an O-ring
to stick on it for better sealing. Or you could use a stat-O-seal and the
O-ring won't squish out on you.
Sean
metric thread size and type for the ICP fitting and pick that up at
any hydraulic shop. Then your set to go with pressure test on the
HPOP system.
I have the silly thing here but don't know the size or pitch.
NOTE : I just looked it up M12x1.5
BTW it's O-ringed. So that is M12X1.5 male to 1/8 or 1/4 female pipe
for you air line into it. Just tell the person that you also need an O-ring
to stick on it for better sealing. Or you could use a stat-O-seal and the
O-ring won't squish out on you.
Sean
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 385
Likes: 13
From: Stanwood, WA
Picked up a fitting to add air, stopped by the International shop next to my work and the parts guy said the "tool" was about a $110.00 last time he ordered one. Went to The Hose Shop in Burlington and got the fitting I needed today for $7.00 and added a ball valve for another $6.00. Pressurized the system, cleared the oil, energized the IPR and heard no difference in air flow. I think, in conjunction with the bench test I attempted, the older style screen on the IPR, and the previous work done within the last 1.5 yrs, I have a bad IPR. I will be ordering one tomorrow and installing when it arrives. Any input from others would be greatly appreciated.
FTE Remembers
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
May be time to buy one in a blue box or from IH.
It seems like a lot of the aftermarket stuff is not
holding up very well. You don't want it to dump you
on a back road somewhere just to save a few $.
Sean
It seems like a lot of the aftermarket stuff is not
holding up very well. You don't want it to dump you
on a back road somewhere just to save a few $.
Sean
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 385
Likes: 13
From: Stanwood, WA
My plan is to stop by the International dealer tomorrow and pick up n IPR, sounds like they have them in stock. Only thing that concerns me is hey don't carry Racor filters, they have Fleet something or others, and that leads me to believe they may have subpar IPR's that they carry also.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 385
Likes: 13
From: Stanwood, WA
Hating life right now
I would like to preface this by saying many people told me to stay away from a 6.0; I wanted an excursion though and was not interested in a V10. I am at the point where I wish I would have listened.
I've installed the IPR valve because I didn't hear a change in noise when air testing ($255.00 mistake with tax).
I have paperwork for new HPOP with updated fittings along with stand pipes and dummy plugs within the last year and a half. (Every video I watch says the new units don't fail)
I still don't hear a change in air movement when air testing, even though I bought a new International IPR.
Noise is louder out of the oil fill tube, but I can hear a slight noise on the drivers side also, do I attack the passenger valve cover first or the HPOP?
I have verified fuel delivery, LPOP, FICM, voltage to IPR, ICP voltage.
I've installed the IPR valve because I didn't hear a change in noise when air testing ($255.00 mistake with tax).
I have paperwork for new HPOP with updated fittings along with stand pipes and dummy plugs within the last year and a half. (Every video I watch says the new units don't fail)
I still don't hear a change in air movement when air testing, even though I bought a new International IPR.
Noise is louder out of the oil fill tube, but I can hear a slight noise on the drivers side also, do I attack the passenger valve cover first or the HPOP?
I have verified fuel delivery, LPOP, FICM, voltage to IPR, ICP voltage.
FTE Remembers
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
What is your weekend looking like ?
Also have you looked this this video?
I am an afternoon person. I take it you got my Email address.
If not use my username and @ xxxxxxx.com
We can see about doing a meet.
Sean
Also have you looked this this video?
I am an afternoon person. I take it you got my Email address.
If not use my username and @ xxxxxxx.com
We can see about doing a meet.
Sean