Door panels and misc issues
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
Door panels and misc issues
I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how to repair door panels that are pretty weathered. They're weathered to the point that I have holes. I don't know if there is some kind of plastic bondo that I can use.
Also, I have noticed that anything over 45mph my truck vibrates pretty bad. I'm thinking it's the drive shaft is bent or out of balance. It isn't the wheels as I can't feel it in the steering wheel.
The shift lever vibrates quite a bit when I get up to speed and it's either the transmission or drive shaft.
The reason I know it's not the engine is because I can rev the engine and not feel the vibration. I can get it up to 5500 rpm and it's smooth as butter.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Also, I have noticed that anything over 45mph my truck vibrates pretty bad. I'm thinking it's the drive shaft is bent or out of balance. It isn't the wheels as I can't feel it in the steering wheel.
The shift lever vibrates quite a bit when I get up to speed and it's either the transmission or drive shaft.
The reason I know it's not the engine is because I can rev the engine and not feel the vibration. I can get it up to 5500 rpm and it's smooth as butter.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Auto body supply shops will have filler for plastic bumper fascia.
This will stick and flex but there's no way to duplicate the texture of the door panel.
Have you considered replacements?
Driveline vibration can have many causes.
Beyond worn or dry universal joints, it could be;
An oil saturated transmission mount.
Worn tailshaft bushing.
Bad splines.
Shaft itself bent or out of balance.
Yoke wallowed out so the U-joint is not tight.
This will stick and flex but there's no way to duplicate the texture of the door panel.
Have you considered replacements?
Driveline vibration can have many causes.
Beyond worn or dry universal joints, it could be;
An oil saturated transmission mount.
Worn tailshaft bushing.
Bad splines.
Shaft itself bent or out of balance.
Yoke wallowed out so the U-joint is not tight.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Jim is spot-on as always. But as the vibration is a recent issue I'd bet on a u-joint.
For the door panels, I've never seen one so bad as to have holes all the way through, so they must really be bad. I would go to a salvage and look for some as every panel I've ever seen was better than yours. And I live in an area that gets very high UV.
For the door panels, I've never seen one so bad as to have holes all the way through, so they must really be bad. I would go to a salvage and look for some as every panel I've ever seen was better than yours. And I live in an area that gets very high UV.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
We're working on identifying the issue with the vibration.
Unfortunately the panels that have the holes in them are for the rear doors and finding panels for those are slim to none. I'll see about repairing them.
Unfortunately the panels that have the holes in them are for the rear doors and finding panels for those are slim to none. I'll see about repairing them.
Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
Auto body supply shops will have filler for plastic bumper fascia.
This will stick and flex but there's no way to duplicate the texture of the door panel.
Have you considered replacements?
Driveline vibration can have many causes.
Beyond worn or dry universal joints, it could be;
An oil saturated transmission mount.
Worn tailshaft bushing.
Bad splines.
Shaft itself bent or out of balance.
Yoke wallowed out so the U-joint is not tight.
This will stick and flex but there's no way to duplicate the texture of the door panel.
Have you considered replacements?
Driveline vibration can have many causes.
Beyond worn or dry universal joints, it could be;
An oil saturated transmission mount.
Worn tailshaft bushing.
Bad splines.
Shaft itself bent or out of balance.
Yoke wallowed out so the U-joint is not tight.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
I've never dealt with the center support other than to take it down and put it back in again. I've never replaced it. How much "give" is it supposed to have? In other words, how can I tell that it's bad?
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pedant
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think my drive shaft has splines except for maybe in the center carrier bearing. The connections to the transmission and the rear diff are both u-joints. I'll take a look at the u-joints and give them a couple pumps from the grease gun. I'll see if I can separate the shaft from the carrier as well.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
I was looking at the drive shaft. The only splines are on the center carrier bearing. The carrier bearing is easily able to be moved up and down at least 1/4-1/2" without the mount moving. I'm trying to explain that it appears as though the rubber bushing is worn. I'm surprised it hasn't caused me more issues before now.
I'm going to remove the drive shaft tomorrow. Are there any special tools I might need in order to remove the carrier bearing?
I'm going to remove the drive shaft tomorrow. Are there any special tools I might need in order to remove the carrier bearing?
Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
I was looking at the drive shaft. The only splines are on the center carrier bearing. The carrier bearing is easily able to be moved up and down at least 1/4-1/2" without the mount moving. I'm trying to explain that it appears as though the rubber bushing is worn. I'm surprised it hasn't caused me more issues before now.
I'm going to remove the drive shaft tomorrow. Are there any special tools I might need in order to remove the carrier bearing?
I'm going to remove the drive shaft tomorrow. Are there any special tools I might need in order to remove the carrier bearing?
from the rear pinion.
Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 376
Likes: 2
From: Lake Elsinore
The carrier bearing is only held in with two bolts but you will have to remove the rear driveshaft section to get the bearing off the front section. If the rubber cushion is shot you might as well replace the entire assembly as it's cheap.