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Wanting to hook up my fuel tank in the bed to flow into the rubber hose filler neck. Has anyone pieced parts together to do this? I am not interested in spending the 70-80 bucks to get the fancy hook up. I already have a 12v switch to cut it on and off. I previously had this tank plumbed directly to the engine with a seperate return line. However I have figured out that the 12v switch does not flow enough fuel and it was drastically hurting my performance.
Should be able to use pvc ( schedule 40) tee off with fill size of 3/8" barb or whatever you need & some hose clamps. You'll need to measure the ID of the fill tube. I found a chart of compatible materials & pvc & diesel are OK. Cant find it right now . Someone else will verify. Install shutoff ball valve on the outlet of tank & good to go.
I would get the kit off Ebay. Sounds like you have close to the big bucks in separate return line etc....
I spent 89 on mine (Ebay). half hour install and it's safe and haven't had to worry about running out of fuel, separate filtering or return etc etc. Gravity fed and my fuel gauge alarms me when I can only go 400 miles when the aux tank is dry and the needle moves on the stock tank. (110 gal aux tank)
I would get the kit off Ebay. Sounds like you have close to the big bucks in separate return line etc....
I spent 89 on mine (Ebay). half hour install and it's safe and haven't had to worry about running out of fuel, separate filtering or return etc etc. Gravity fed and my fuel gauge alarms me when I can only go 400 miles when the aux tank is dry and the needle moves on the stock tank. (110 gal aux tank)
Michigan to California non stop type.
Denny
The only big bucks I had in my fuel system were the 2 12v switches, about $25 a piece. The rest was fuel lines and clamps. Plan on using 1 of the switches I have to gravity feed my factory tank when get to 1/4 tank or so.
I only paid $60? For my gravity kit northern was a lot more. I have no switches just a on ,off ball handle that works great. Only thing I have to do is shut it off when done for the day.says it will run out overflow if your main tank is full.
First time I used it the fuel gage went up not pulling anything, never saw that before!
I debated taking the filler neck off and welding in a "bung" and using a switch/pump.
Glad i didn't. I bought the kit from northern tool and it worked super.. Comes with a check valve and ball valve. Way easier than welding / mounting pump and running wires and a switch. I figured i would end up forgetting and leaving that switch on at least once and that won't pretty. .
I fill up both tanks and it don't leak a drop and i never even turn off the ball valve . I don't get anything out the overflow either.
I set mine up with the kit from northern tool. I wired a normally closed solenoid to a switch in the cab so I can turn on when needed. It is currently gravity fed but I am in the process of wiring up a pump so when I turn on the switch it pumps instead of gravity. I am not happy with the feed rate (little ADD kicking in). I would def go the kit route, it was super easy.
It costs me a lot for northern to ship to me in Maine,went elsware. I don't think I will see fuel gauge go up when I hook onto my 40ft 5'er in a couple weeks heading south.
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