No start after sitting overnight...
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
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From: western washington
the WTS light does not mean the glows are heating, if the relay is bad the light could still come on and the glows not get hot. there are two systems a low current side, (WTS and controller) and high current side, (post relay, and glows, large wire and fuseable link) he could have resistance in the high current side, and the controller see's the glows but there is no current to heat them, the easiest test for this is to plug the dam thing in several nights in a row regardless of out side temp, the engine will start right away if it is a glow plug problem. proper diagnosis of the problem is most important. chasing and killing the air fairy is not always the best solution.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Jerseyville,IL
I tested the relay per instructions I found on here, it checked out fine. I also tested the glow plugs this morning with an ohm meter and they were all good. I had the truck plugged in for a couple hours this morning and it I did manage to get it started without starting fluid. I looked over all the connecters at the glow plugs. They all looked good. Can I check each plug at the glow plugs with an ohm meter, or test light to make sure I'm getting power there when they are supposed to be cycling?
Also, I the fuel side of things. I still have my clear lines on for that test as I'm awaiting my olives to get here today. After sealing a few fittings up such as the bleeder valve and another sensor on the same side towards the back of the head, I'm getting no air bubbles at idle. When I speed it up a bit, I get a few bubbles coming out of the return line from the filter, but it clears up when it returns to idle after a few seconds. I get no air after the injection pump, and my line at injector #8 to the line back to the tank still remains empty.
Also, I the fuel side of things. I still have my clear lines on for that test as I'm awaiting my olives to get here today. After sealing a few fittings up such as the bleeder valve and another sensor on the same side towards the back of the head, I'm getting no air bubbles at idle. When I speed it up a bit, I get a few bubbles coming out of the return line from the filter, but it clears up when it returns to idle after a few seconds. I get no air after the injection pump, and my line at injector #8 to the line back to the tank still remains empty.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Jerseyville,IL
Should I be getting power to the metal curvy piece that comes from the glow plug relay when I turn on the ignition? There's no power there at all, and it used to click after the wait to start light went out, but it hasn't been doing that.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Jerseyville,IL
Okay, round 10. I found some further test instructions for the glow Plug relay. I'm suspecting that it is now the culprit. With the ignition switch on, I ground out the white wired terminal. The solenoid clicks in, but, there is no power passing from the yellow wire terminal to the glow plug (wavy piece of metal terminal). Also, I checked a couple of connectors at the glow plugs and there was no power there either. The red wire terminal has 12 v power with switch on, and the yellow wired terminals are always hot. White is hot with switch on, I ground it and the relay engages, but it must me burnt inside not making a circuit. I'm going to check the yellow wire terminals for corrosion before concluding that the relay is bad. Looking at it, they look fairly clean, but I'll take them off after unhooking the battery and give them a better look.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Jerseyville,IL
I replaced the relay, soon as I had someone turn on the key I had power across the relay. I couldn't get power across it before even by grounding out the white wire. Also, the yellow wire terminal was loose. Tomorrow morning will tell the story if this fixes it. I also replaced the fuel line olives today and ran it a while to get the air purged out of the lines.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: western washington
way to Diagnose the problem, good job, I am sure it will work fine, just because one sees bubbles doesn't mean that air fairy is not being controlled by the systems designed to do so. IMO that the return system is best unmodified. the return line fitting must be removed so one can see the orifice, be careful as the fitting holds in the tiny spring that holds the check ball if you are interested in watching it work place the return line hose, in a clear jar and watch the fuel flow it is about 1-4 oz per min. every 7.3 I have worked on has had the orificed fitting, some just don't have the check ball. the vertical fuel line that runs to the ip holds a couple minuets of fuel for an idling engine the fuel pump, if properly working will force out air and catch up to the engine before it runs out of fuel, the bubbles will rise to the high point witch is the return fitting and escape to the tank, I have seen a 7.3 run with a blown e pump fuse, the transfer pump is capable of pulling fuel, it may not start after seting for some time and the engine lost power under acceleration, but it did idle fine.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Jerseyville,IL
Well, it started this morning. So I am assuming I had more of a glow plug problem than anything else. I just didn't think it would need the glow plugs warm in 100 degree weather to get it started. I know it's started before with bad glow plugs in warm weather, but there must have been enough of it working to start it. Had trouble with the glow plug relay this past winter on our '00 7.3L. It wouldn't start unless it was plugged in, but on warm days it started fine even though the relay was shot. Also have a '97 7.3L that has never missed a start and rarely finds itself plugged in even on the coldest winter days. I can now rest easy and let all the hair I pulled out grow back. Thanks guys for helping me diagnose this problem, and convincing me that I need to look at the glow plugs and let the air problem go.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 2
From: western washington
hard cold starts I always look to the GP's.... and its easier to plug it in than to fight the AIR FAIRY. Park it for a week then plug it in over night if it starts right up, with out waiting for glows to heat, the Air Fairy is not a factor.
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