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Died, won't start back up??

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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Nero Morg
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Died, won't start back up??

Okay, so I was on my way home from work and I noticed the engine seemed to be lacking in power, and felt like it was shaking, as if two cylinders weren't firing. Get on a long stretch, and it just dies completely. I tried to crank it while rolling (manual trans are awesome) but no luck, ended up having to get it towed.

Anyways, yesterday I cleaned the injectors up and put new O rings and redid the entire fuel return lines at the engine, and did this mod to eliminate air intrusion, and had to replace a few other hoses that were in dire need of replacement due to cracking.

After all of the new hoses were installed and the injectors reinstalled, it fired up after a few cranks. The following morning (this morning) it sounded like the truck was struggling to start, but eventually did. It did this when I left work as well. Now it won't turn over at all, haven't checked the battery voltage yet.

Any ideas? Also, any links/directions to properly pop-test injectors?

Not sure if it is in my sig yet, but it's a 1989 F250 7.3 IDI non-turbo 4x4.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 10:24 PM
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From: Michigan
When you get up in the morning, spin the fuel filter off and make sure its completely full. I dont think its real likely that you have air intrusion since you fixed a bunch of stuff, but it doesnt hurt to make absolutely sure. Are your glow plugs working right? How good did it start before?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 10:31 PM
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Nero Morg
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All glow plugs are brand new Motorcraft no more than 5 months old, and was working perfectly fine before the labor I did, I believe I may have burnt up the starter trying to purge the air out of the IP, I purged the air out of the filter/water separator using the schrader valve like you are supposed to, and I drove it about 20 miles before it stalled and wouldn't start.
A thought; two of the injectors were literally pouring fuel out when I tried to pop test them (less than 200psi each and would drip), maybe the IP for those two ports are weaker? I replaced the two bad injectors that pop tested at the same psi as the rest of the injectors, I think 1250 each, or 250, my psi gauge only shows in three digits.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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well if their was fuel pouring out of 2 of the injectors im going to venture to guess those ones are bad. How many miles are on the IP and injectors?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 10:40 PM
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145k original, I think the IP may have been changed by the previous owners judging by how clean it is, however the injectors were never touched (except the occasional o-ring replacement.) I put the Viton O-rings in it and lubed them up with vaseline, but I doubt that has anything to do with it. I was trying to do it right the first time.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 11:15 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
if an idi stalls out like this,the first thing to do is pop the hood and check oil level.caution: high oil level due to fuel in base could = runaway if you did get her started!!! (if fuel pump diaphragm ruptured,you don't want to introduce any more fuel.just have it towed if oil level looks high.change oil and fuel pump once home.) then check for power at the FSS with key on.simply unhook the top most wire clip on the ip,and hook it back on.you should hear a loud distinct "click".if not,run a temporary wire from positive bat post and see if it "clicks" then.if so,she should start right up.hook the jumper wire up semi-permanently to get your home.
followed by a steady (no air bubbles) fuel stream at the Schrader valve while cranking.if not,look for any fuel leaks to see if you can patch it road side,and or try the other tank as it could be a faulty selector valve,or a failed fuel pick up.if the stream looks really weak or non existent,the fuel pump may have failed or fuel filter could be plugged as well.


1250 psi is too low for fuel injectors.

Opening Pressure (New) 13,100 ± 517 kPa (1,900 ± 75 psi)
Opening Pressure (Minimum) 9,998 kPa (1,450 psi)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fications.html

now that she's home,the first test would be (with charged batteries of course) to insure power @ FSS. if so, unhook fuel pump supply line,and run a devoted hose to it with a jug of diesel.this will help narrow things down real quick.
very,very simple old school,basic engine.diagnose simply,without jumping to any conclusions,and you'll narrow it right down quickly.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 11:31 PM
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The stream from the schrader valve was consistent with no air bubbles during cranking (before the starter went) and the IP has the distinctive click, I just walked out and checked it. I'll have to read up on the injectors, is there a way to rebuild them myself, or should I just get new/remanufactured ones?

Edit: I'll have to do the test with the fuel bypass tomorrow after work, I'll get back to you on it then, I appreciate the advice so far though!
Second edit: When it WAS running (on my way home from work before it died) it was pouring out quite a bit of white smoke, if I'm not mistaken, that means it's running too lean, right? With the injectors popping at such a low pressure, I would think the IP is going. I know it's not a fuel issue as I just replaced all of the replaceable lines and purged them, and the fuel tank was completely full and never switched to another tank (was on front tank, rear was empty.)
Before I tightened the steel lines to the injectors, I cranked the engine to purge them, plenty of fuel came out each line, then I connected them. From what I could tell it was pumping evenly, is there a way to test the IP, or just replace it?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 08:29 PM
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So I replaced the injectors with new ones, turns out one of the "replacements" I used unscrewed right in the middle, and almost hydro locked the motor with fuel... Is there anything I should check? It appears to be running perfectly fine now, no engine shake or anything.
 
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