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Leak began right after I turned off engine, stopped after just a few minutes. Slow leak, looks like oil...I don't think it's brake fluid, but it's running down break like. I've attached some pics...let me know if you need more info.
Brakes feel a little difficult in slowing down truck, but like I said...looks more like oil.
78 f250 2WD, 300.
dripping from this area, but I think it's coming from something else.
different angle of first pic; you can see the drip here.
I didn't realize that last pic was so blurry until I uploaded it. I'm going to go outside and take a few more pics. Also, what cord is that hanging down (in the first 2 pics)? Haven't noticed that before.
Power steering?
In that location, about the only thing is the steering box.
hmmm...possibly the lower hose. I just replaced the pressure hose, and I'm positive it isn't leaking. Lower hose was not replaced though. I'll go check the fluid level in a bit.
Any ideas on the cord? I don't see a place where it might have come loose from.
If the leak is at the steering box, it's a good chance that it's the box itself leaking and not the hose(s).
Very common for either the sector shaft seal or input shaft seal to leak.
What colors are the two wires that are hanging down?
Look again, there are two wires in a common sheath. Clean the individual wires.
I looked at the wiring diagram. That plug looks like it's connector C-330. If it is, there should be a blue wire and a red w/ yellow trace wire.
That wire goes to the throttle kicker that was only used on F150 w/ manual transmission and a 302. So, in your case, it's not used.
What's the difficulty level in replacing this part?
That kinda depends on your mechanical ability. It's just replacing the external seals and can be done with the box in the truck but it can get tedious. It's easier if the box is sitting on the bench.
One thing that's important, you DO NOT want to disassemble the box. This will be a major mistake that you will regret in short order.
If you do it "in truck", you'll need to remove the steering column to replace the input shaft seals.
With the column out of the way you'll see the first "seal", that's actually a dust shield. Get a sharp center punch, awl, or even a nail and punch a hole in the shield, then screw a sheetmetal screw into the hole and pry the seal out. Beneath the seal is a snap ring, remove it. This will give you access to the seals. Do the same thing to the seal and pry it out, then remove the flat spacer, next is the second seal. Do the same thing and pry it out.
Use a deep socket or piece of pipe to install the new seals. Don't forget the spacer between the two seals.
The sector shaft seal (the one for the pitman arm) is basically the same only you have to remove the pitman arm.
If you consider installing a rebuilt gearbox instead of tackling the seals, I have two words, Red Head. These boxes are truly rebuilt, not just resealed like the chain stores, and they are competitively priced.http://redheadsteeringgears.reachloc...563&kw=5007907
Look again, there are two wires in a common sheath. Clean the individual wires.
I looked at the wiring diagram. That plug looks like it's connector C-330. If it is, there should be a blue wire and a red w/ yellow trace wire.
That wire goes to the throttle kicker that was only used on F150 w/ manual transmission and a 302. So, in your case, it's not used.
That kinda depends on your mechanical ability. It's just replacing the external seals and can be done with the box in the truck but it can get tedious. It's easier if the box is sitting on the bench.
One thing that's important, you DO NOT want to disassemble the box. This will be a major mistake that you will regret in short order.
If you do it "in truck", you'll need to remove the steering column to replace the input shaft seals.
With the column out of the way you'll see the first "seal", that's actually a dust shield. Get a sharp center punch, awl, or even a nail and punch a hole in the shield, then screw a sheetmetal screw into the hole and pry the seal out. Beneath the seal is a snap ring, remove it. This will give you access to the seals. Do the same thing to the seal and pry it out, then remove the flat spacer, next is the second seal. Do the same thing and pry it out.
Use a deep socket or piece of pipe to install the new seals. Don't forget the spacer between the two seals.
The sector shaft seal (the one for the pitman arm) is basically the same only you have to remove the pitman arm.
If you consider installing a rebuilt gearbox instead of tackling the seals, I have two words, Red Head. These boxes are truly rebuilt, not just resealed like the chain stores, and they are competitively priced.Red-Head Steering Gears
Well I can't thank you enough. I'm beginning on it today. I really, really appreciate the help.
J
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