Hey guys,

I have a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Automatic with a 4.0

A few months ago I went to start it and it would not start. All the lights were on and working, the radio worked etc. I figured it was the fender solenoid so I replaced it. Didn't fix it. I jumped the solenoid and it spun up. The only way I can start the truck is by turning the key to on, and jumping the solenoid. I replaced the ignition switch that is under the instrument panel, and the ignition cylinder that the key goes in to. I have reason to think that it may be the neutral safety switch, but I do not want to go out and buy the part and it not be the issue.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated seeing as I need to smog it within the next month.

 

Welcome to FTE.

I'm not real clear on what you mean by it won't start. Do you mean when you turn the ignition key to Start, the starter motor won't crank the engine, or do you mean it will crank the engine, but the engine won't fire & run????

Since you say the problem began a few months ago, have you checked the battery state of charge???? If it fails a load test, under load voltage drop may be too much for the computer to run the fuel pump & have the ignition make good spark, while trying to crank the engine up to speed, like we have when trying to start with a weak battery. If battery voltage is dropping below 10 volts on a start, it may not fire & run.

If the battery is low on charge, put it on an over night low rate of charge, say 4-10 amps, to slowly bring it back to a full state of charge & see how it goes. If the battery has removable cell caps, make sure all cells are covered with Distilled water, before recharging.

 

Thank you for responding,

What I mean more specifically is I turn the key and it wont start. In order for me to start it I have to bridge the solenoid posts (solenoid on fender) while the key is in the on position. I have replaced said solenoid.
For some reason it will not attempt to ignite, when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump working. When i turn the key to ignite nothing happens. The lights turn off, the radio turns off. Ive been driving it to and from work ever since then. But every time I start it I need to pop the hood and bridge the solenoid. I have tried starting it in neutral and have gotten the same thing.

Thank you for reading

 

IIRC, the Park/Neutral Safety Switch is also a part of the back-up lamp circuit(s).

Do the back-up lamps illuminate when the truck is shifted into Reverse?

 

Yes the white reverse indicators light up when it is in reverse.

 

OK, so when you go to Start with the ignition key, the starter motor won't run to crank the engine over & all the lights on the dash go out, including the radio. But if you jumper the starter motor solenoid B+ contacts, the starter motor will run & crank the engine & it'll start & run.

So, something between the ignition switch & starter solenoid seems to be on the fritz & Rockledge is right, a number of things are in the B+ circuit between the ignition switch & fender mounted starter solenoid winding & the auto tranny neutral start switch is one & the brake switch is another. The dash lights going out is a clue, that sorta sounds like a ground loop problem to me, like the fender mounted starter solenoid winding may have a bad ground, or maybe the battery to body & or engine ground points are loose, corroded, high resistance, in need of cleaning, tightening of fasteners, ect. You could use your multimeter to check for voltage drop on any suspect connections, or wire runs, as that will tattle on poor connections right away.

If your not familiar with doing voltage drop testing, have a read here. Voltage Drop Testing

If you don't have a multi-meter, or don't want to do the testing, try using a good quality low resistance large wire gauge jumper cable, as a parallel connection between the battery B- post & suspect connection, or wire run, to see if it'll wake up & start working, then closely inspect that wire run, or its connections on both ends, for rust, corrosion, loose fit fasteners, broken wire strands, ect.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

So im going to take it into the Ford dealership tomorrow. My dads best friend works in the service bay and is going to diagnose it for free. He can get me the parts if I need any for cheap. I tried cleaning the grounds and connections, and well...it didnt help. I shall see what they say and let you guys know tomorrow.

 

OK, good idea to tidy up the battery to body & engine ground connections, but don't give up yet.
When no joy after cleaning grounds, did you also inspect, or perform a voltage drop test on the B+ connections to the under hood power distribution box & or perform a wiggle test on the fuses & wires feeding the in cabin fuse panel, tranny TR/neutral start switch, brake pedal switch, ignition switch, all the way to the starter solenoid????

With the dash lights & radio going out when you try to crank the engine, suggests an electrical anomoly & grounds are the most frequent problem, but members have also reported finding corroded B+ contacts in the under hood power distribution box relay & fuse connections & its fuses feed the in cabin fuse panel.

You have checked/thumped/swapped out, the starter interrupt relay & checked instrument panel fuses.....right?????

Why did you mention that you had reason to suspect the tranny mounted neutral start/transmission range selector(TR) switch???? Have you been having problems with it????

 

I think that the ignition switch cuts power to the lights, radio and all other accessories while in the start position. I have not paid close attention, but that is my memory.
If the truck has a PATS system, the flashing light should go out with the key in the ignition and turned to on.(start?) If the light is still flashing, it has not recognized that key and is preventing theft by disabling the starter.
If you have that situation, you can try another key if you have one, or check the sensor under the steering column cover.
tom

 

Well when I bought the truck it was fine for a while. Then there were a few times where it would be in park, but wouldn't start, so I had to put it in neutral to start. I checked every single fuse and even replaces them all to no avail. I dont know exactly how to see if its the anti-theft system. How would I go about checking it? My remote disables the alarm.

 

OK, good feedback & I agree you have good reason to suspect the tranny neutral start/TR sensor, if you were having to put it in "N" to start it & now that doesn't work.

 

The effect from changing the gearshift position sort of points to a MLPS failure. Manual Lever Position Sensor.
It prevents the starter from engaging when the transmission is not in neutral or park positions.
You should be able to test the switch for functionality. I don't have a shop manual for that year so I cannot give wire colors and pin selection.
Try holding the key in start, and moving the shift lever through the other positions in a continuous motion. That will check if there is continuity in any switch position. If you get starter response in some other position, I would replace the switch, or at least check that it is adjusted properly.
tom

 

Its being looked at right now. My dads buddy is a Ford tech. I will update with any new finds.

 

Right now, with the trouble you've reported on the TRS, it belongs high up on your suspect list.

 

Well on closer inspection (my boyfriend is an idiot) the lights do not turn off when I try to ignite it. Everything else does. Ford couldn't fix it in the time they had. I have to wait aweek