Well had fuel in the overflow tank so I got the injector cup kit from riff raff and all went well. Now have no power blowing white smoke and fuel and oil in the overflow tank. I'm about to cry. It was some what fun the first time getting in there but now I'm ready to ghost ride this X over the clif. Plus my gauge pods aren't working now. Fuse I guess. Ugg
Lots of beer time
Any ideas?

 

I still like the excursion few beers down

 

Sounds like one of the cups isn't seated all the way. That could explain the white smoke. How much oil in the overflow? Could just be residual from a poor flush. Any chance you forgot or damaged an oring or copper washer?

 

Tugly has a video somewhere of how to do a cup leak test. Maybe you just have to redo 1or2

 

Ya that is what I'm thinking but what a pain in the *** I'm thinking it is in the passenger bank. Near the fire wall. My main concern for the riff raff tool was is it seated all the way?

 

Look up a thread called "stinky's stick up" by Tugly. Either way, all the sticks have to come back out at a minimum. It's also not uncommon to double up on copper washer by mistake. The answer very well may stare you in the face when you start removing sticks.

 

Ah... the ol' leaky cup. I have cleaned up a couple of these, which brings me to the first question: Exactly how clean did you get the heads before installing the cups? Shooting it with brake cleaner and wiping it real good doesn't get it done.

The link you're looking for is in my signature - injector cups. You can see there how I failed miserably at everything except getting the heads clean and the cups sealed.

Here is another [LINK] that can help with injector cup leak detection.

 

I did one injector at a time so no duble up on the washers. It must be that it didn't seat. So I will try the pressure test I think autozone loans a coolent pressure tester.
Time to have at it again tomorrow. Any diesel shops in LA. The SFV
Thank guys for the help.
Is hand cranking good enough to purge the oil out of the cilinders or should I bump start it a bit. If it is just one cup do I need to remove all the glow plugs.

 

Owning a 7.3L and owning a Mity-Vac are synonymous, in my opinion. I use a Mity-Vac with a 1/4" semi-rigid tube inserted in the vacuum tube on the pump. This fits inside the glowplug hole and the hole in the cup.

I am unsure what method you are planning to use for a pressure test, but I thought I should share some Factoids:

• I came up with my little foam test because I pressure-tested my system for 24 hours, and it missed a very slow leak on #6.
• I pressurized BWST's truck (his 6th or 7th time in to find cup leaks) with all the injectors out, and we couldn't spot the leak. We then drained all the coolant (need to anyway because it's contaminated) and did the foam test - that's the video I posted on the link yesterday. We had our answer in seconds, not overnight.
• In his case it wasn't a problem with seating or sealant, it was the hole prep that got him.
• In my case, it wasn't seating or hole prep, it was taking too long to seat the cup, and I broke my semi-fresh sealant (I was learning on that cup).

The seating was good in both leaky cups, so sealant, seating, or hole prep can get you.

I knew where I screwed up - so I took a big risk by just pulling the driver-side injectors and leaving the passenger side in. I was correct with my "educated guess" that it was #6, so mine is a success story.

I wasn't there when you had issues with #7 (I hate that freaking hole), so only you know why you are just targeting that hole without checking any of the others. This is a response to your comment on just removing the glow plugs on the other cylinders for the test.

 

what causes the original cups to start leaking?

 

They are a brass cup in a steel head subjected to radical temperature, pressure, and chemical tortures for many years and cycles. Sometimes the seal gives, sometimes the brass splits.

 

Thanks guys elbow deep at it again

 

Well gentlemen got it all apart again feel like master now at this motor. I thought it could be the pass bank but saw a problem in the driver side bank. There was a bit of loc tite on the injector body.
Had three craftman ratchets brake on me. Two 1/4 and the big boy. Never again will I buy crapman.
Anyways got to burp the cillinders by hand and ready to put the injectors in. Praying to Henry that he's looking down on me

 

Just kinda wondering if any of you guys did a compression test before and after a cup replacement?

 

bkuuz1 - Compression test is unaffected by the cups. The base of the cup area has a big steel face leading to the cylinder. If you could plug the injector nozzle hole, you could conduct a compression test. When the cup is properly seated, it sits flat on that steel face.







Kulapp - this is the time to take your time. After letting the cups seal overnight, do your pressure test and look for leaks. You want this to be the last time you go in. I'm sure this has already crossed your mind, but these threads linger - and it's good information for the readers in the future.