Hi Guys,
Couldn't find an answer to my problems in search so I'm posting.
66 f100
had a problem with the ignition switch and a bad battery (battery was really old)
ignition switch wouldn't spring back from the start position so I had to move the key by hand to stop it from cranking the starter after the motor was running. it finally wouldn't stop cranking the starter even with the key off.
Replaced the ignition switch, battery, both battery cables. Now all it does is go "click".
I cleaned off all the mountings as I installed the new cables but I'm thinking it's still a ground issue.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
p.s. The switch I had trouble with was an universal one and was replaced with same.
I really need to get this sorted out as this truck is my daily driver.
Thanks,
Judi

 

Check the solenoid where the battery cable connects. Jump the two smaller wire terminals with a screwdriver and see if it cranks over. If it cranks your solenoid is bad.
Recheck all your connections on the ignition switch.
Good luck

 

Classic symptoms of a bad solenoid, the one on the fender. The contacts inside do get hot, and under cranking stress such as you are describing will often melt together. The solenoid then will not shut itself off - and then will no longer work at all.
To test it, and eliminate the possibility that the ignition switch or wiring is bad or not correct, first, look for the large post (on the solenoid) the the battery cable from the positive "+" battery post feeds to. Next, use a long screwdriver or any other metal thing to connect this large post with the nearest small post. MAKE SURE the truck is in neutral!
If the solenoid clicks but the starter does not run, then either the solenoid is bad or the starter is bad (or possibly both).

Get a replacement solenoid at your local parts store - and shop around. I think even Ford still makes them - but ND can easily correct that.

Be sure to note which wire goes where on the solenoid, in particular, the small ones. One of the small ones is the 12V signal from the ignition switch, which activates the solenoid. The other small one sends 12V to the points when the solenoid is energized.
Should you accidentally switch the two, no harm is done - the solenoid will simply just not energize. Simply switch the two small ones around to resolve it.

Once you have the new solenoid in place, all should be well, unless the starter is bad.

Best of luck.

CD "Deo Vindice"

 

Perhaps a bad key assembly, and or, ign. switch. There's also the possibility the key assembly was not installed in the switch correctly. Not sure about 'aftermarket' variety key assembly; having said that, the procedure for removing the key assembly is to turn the key to the off position, there is a small hole on the face of the assembly, using a paper clip, or something similar, insert in the hole and then turn the key assembly to the 'accessory' position and the assembly should come out. Installing is in reverse; the key needs to be in the accessory position when key assembly is inserted into the ignition switch.

Before replacing electrical components suggest start at the starter and work back to the ground wire from neg. side of batt. to engine block. Starter is grounded thru bolts to bell housing, make sure clean surface and bolts are secure. The condition of the sire from starter to starter side of 'starter relay', which is on the passenger side inner fender, is not frayed and secure. There's an 'start' side, and 'ign' side of the starter relay and the crimp type retainer clips can become distorted and fail to make a good connection. There's the cable from the other side of the 'starter relay' to the pos. side of batt., it is surprising how residual film that collects on the batt. post can effect batt. output. Finally, the neg. cable to the engine block, the surface should be clean and secure to the block.


Pos. pix of couple circuits may find helpful. Suggest purchase wiring manual, understand many Ford part supplier's carry them, or purchase directly from source: Jim Osborn Reproductions for $7.


[URL=http://s300.photobucket.com/user/goatfarmer_photos/media/65FordTruckWireDiagP5-1.jpg.html][IMG]

 

Ford replaced the original 1961/66 ignition switch (C3AZ-11572-A / Auto-Lite SW-353) with the 1967 Econoline & 1967/77 Bronco switch (C7UZ-11572-A / Motorcraft SW583) that has an extra terminal.

Confederate Diesel has the wiring diagram for the Bronco/Econoline switch.

 

Have I told you lately how much I love you guys.
I'll get to testing tomorrow when I have some daylight to see with.
Will let you know what I find.
Thanks,
Judi