will a low battery keep the solinoid from disengageing

 

What happened to me recently was that excessive cranking got things too hot, and the solenoid did not disengage. The battery was still good and strong, the truck did not start for other reasons. Once things cooled down, the solenoid has been OK. If you were cranking for a long time, it could be heat related.

Dave

 

My ignition switch recently self destructed. One of the indications of failure was the starter motor would not disengage. Reach under your dash, grab the wiring connector and gently wiggle the back of the switch. If it's loose, it could be the cause of your problem. Switch replacement is simple.
Good luck.

 

bassman 4

I'll wager your problem is the solenoid, & was to begin with.

Solenoids, if "arc burnt" [when contacts pit up & stick shut] it will keep starter cranking until current is interrupted.
And, YES!, it can result from prolonged LOW VOLTAGE, operation, bad, wrong sized, or loose, heavy load cables will cause this arc pitting over time. But just having low battery once in a while will not cause it nor a solenoid to stick.

Another cause of sticking is having wires wrong. If OEM plug on connector & correct Ignition Switch for that connector are used, there should not be a problem. But, if either one is wrong, or damaged it can cause solenoid to stick & starter to not disengage.

SO IT'S THEREIN OBVIOUS, CAUSE OF FoMoCo STARTER FAILING TO DISENGAGE & CONTINUING TO CRANK, INVARIABLY IS STARTER SOLENOID ONLY.

I'll qualify that by saying," Disengaging is not same as releasing after an engine fires up & runs. . . . That's a whole other deal!

Here is a TEST for diagnosing what your problem is.
Your Effy should have a 4 wire solenoid.

2 large poles are high amperage terminals. One has Battery cable plus wiring harness[es] for truck. Other has starter cable.

There are 2 smaller 16/14 Ga wires on "face" of solenoid body.
One supplies current engaging electromagnetic coil, that makes solenoid work. Other supplies voltage to ignition while solenoid is engaged & starter cranking over.

1) Disconnect starter motor cable @ terminal on solenoid.

2) Have helper turn key to KONS position [Key On No Start] yet. ONLY cables/ wires @ Batt terminal should read 12V with VOM or Test Light.
If ANY others read, with key in KONS [Key On No Start] position Solenoid OR ignition Switch is @ fault/ bad.

3) Now disconnect small solenoid "Engage" wire. It should not have current @ KONS position. If it does, problem's Ign Switch, or how Ign Switch is wired. If no current's present, proceed to next step.

4) Reconnect solenoid engage wire, and have helper turn key to KOSE [key On Start Engage] position. With key in KOSE all of the terminals should read 12V/ show current w/test light. If so go to next step.

5) Have helper Release Key so it returns normally to vehicles' KOER [Key On Engine Run] position.
........NOW.......
A) All terminals EXCEPT Batt Terminal of Solenoid now should be Current Free [0-volts or No Light].

B) If any other solenoid terminals beside Batt, show any current it indicates fault in solenoid or Ign Switch.

C) Disconnect Solenoid Engage wire, if solenoid disengages, but engage wire shows 10 or more volts problem's Ignition Switch. It means R&R [remove & replace] with correct Ignition switch.
OR. . . .

D) If Solenoid fails to disengage when engage wire is removed, it indicates fault is in Solenoid. R&R Solenoid to resolve problem.

Return Key to KISO or KOSO [Key In Switch Off or Key Out Switch Off] position & effect repair(s) as indicated......
....In Closing .....
It's worth time & expense to use quality, brand named, electrical parts when repairing electrical systems, or electronic systems requiring use of replacement parts.
As a general rule, most parts lines handled by National Discount Auto Parts Franchises do not meet or exceed OEM Specs. If they did, they'd cost approximately same amount at wholesale pricing. They invariably are much cheaper. Volume is not necessarily the reason, and most often electrical & electronic parts have little or no warranty once installed.

Personally I've had too many bad experiences with Wells Brand Parts. I won't bore you with "war stories" about Wells electrical Replacement Parts, except to say Wells WILL & DOES NOT cover damage their wrong or faulty parts cause. Wells replaces thier part(s) only. EVEN IN COMMERCIAL, AND OR PROFFESSIONAL, SITUATIONS. We all get what we pay for in the end!!!
Whew, that's a lot of words..... FBp

 

Thanks again to FTE. Found this old post by searching and the answer I was looking for is in this thread.

 

Wow! Fordboypete left when I first got on here, this is a wicked old thread!

 

I read my shop manual's starter trouble shooting and this condition wasn't mentioned. Next stop: FTE forums. FordBoyPete's Posting Guru status is verified by the explanation he left in this thread. The content is now in my truck log.