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I'm back at my PC. It feels different now. RPMS at 70-75 seem like they are lower.. I first wondered if there was a problem when I was cruising at 75 and it felt like the engine was working more than usual. I think the RPMs were about 3-400 rpm higher at 75 than they are now with the ICP unplugged (was around 2500 yesterday and about 2100 today after unplugging the ICP). The other weird thing I noticed and I'm sure there is a name for it but when letting off the throttle, there would be engine silence like no diesel clatter if you will. Then you tap the throttle and it starts clattering again. Again, not sure how to explain that any better. Anyways, I am waiting to hear from my friend on how much for the ICP sensor. Anything special to installing it?
Thanks,
Brian
Also, how much oil could that sensor potentially lose? Any hopes of that being the oil leak I found dripping off my oil filter? the wire connectors in valley are all pretty caked with grease.
Brian
Pretty easy to install. The oil just messes up the electronics and sends bad signals to the PCM. Oil filter mitt just be a bad seal o-ring and you will have to change it out. I wouldn't think your RPM's would change, just run smoother.
Brian, if you are seeing a difference in RPM's at 75 mph, it is possible that your torque converter clutch has not been locking up. The clutch is controlled by the PCM and other sensors VSS etc. will affect when the clutch locks up. You may be on to something there. Keep plugging away at it. I have a 3.7 gear ratio, the RPM's at 68 mph are right at 2,000. So at 75, if you have 3.7, 2100 sounds about right. Keep us posted. Larry
retiredsparky beat me to it - change in RPM on the highway at the same speed makes the torque converter suspect, but I always like to fix a known sensor problem before I go on to anything mechanical.
The ICP sensor doesn't leak - it "weeps" into the connector, and the oil chemistry "shunts" some of the voltage on the contacts in unpredictable ways - giving a false reading and making the PCM react with too high or low signal for Injector Control Pressure. The most common reaction is low ICP and weak power. OEM is the way to go - all the others are rolling the dice that the truck won't stall near a strong radio signal. If $200 at the dealership seems expensive - buying the aftermarket one first and getting the OEM later isn't cheaper. IIRC, you need a 5/8" claw foot to get the old ICP sensor out. In their infinite wisdom, Ford put the wrenching part of the sensor housing under the fat round part of the body. The new OEM ICP sensors have the wrenching part on top, making it easy to install with a socket.
If you have the symptom "wire connectors in valley are all pretty caked with grease", this could be boost leaks, or a bad connection from the CCV. You can research "Boost Leak Detector" on the forum, and you can pop the intake hose off from your air filter box - then look to see if the CCV hose is solidly connected to the intake. The CCV doghouse has O-rings on the bottom that swell and leak, I've had to replace mine.
I've never towed with the ICP sensor disconnected - so I can't tell you what happens. I can tell you that getting a good ICP sensor is very much worth the money - you will have a different truck.
If you had a scan tool/gauge, we can help you with readings on the sensors, and many problems can be detected without the need for random troubleshooting.
I would take the hit on the ICP sensor for the sake of the tow - then start getting input, shopping, and saving for a scan tool/gauge. Factor about $400 for this purchase, but I can promise you'll get your money back on that one - possibly in fuel savings alone.
The RPM change went away after I unplugged the sensor. I should have the new sensor by 430 today. Thanks for the tip on the claw foot. I've got a decent tool collection but no claw feet. I guess I will go to Sears on lunch today and pick one up. As far as boost leaks, I'm pretty sure they are not sealed well. I will most likely go the Dorman route shortly. As far as a scan tool, I've been working on that. I tried the OBDlink but the app would kill the truck every time it connected. I think it was trying to pull too much info at once and overloads the pcm? It looks like the DP tuner infinity x? will do every thing I need, just have to sort out some important things with truck and trailer first. I bought new wheels/tires last weekend, I want to replace the toy hauler tires too (with upgrading to LT's over the STs on it). That's higher up the importance scale right now.
Thanks,
Brian
OBDLink should work, you may have just pulled up an "illegal" PID, like coolant temperature. An illegal PID (not on the OBDII port or wrong configuration) will stall the truck.
If you want to drive with your scangauge up all the time, the Infinity is a strong tool, albeit expensive. AE is nice, if you just want to use it on occasion, or need to dig deep. Torque Pro (Android tablet) is great for driving with it active. I have AE and Torque Pro.
OK guys... sharpen your keyboards! Here comes the steering wheel again:
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