Revisiting 7.3 Engine knock
the noise was not there when i bought it. i am sure of it.
i poked around with a stethoscope and the noise is definitely loudest touching the passenger exhaust manifold. second loudest on passenger valve cover. everywhere else just sounds like normal engine noises.
it knocks like that at idle. and light loads. if i am coasting, i dont hear a thing. if i am under a good load, say over half throttle, with boost anyways, i dont hear a thing.
at part throttle cruising speed it sounds like gurgling or air escaping a water jug??? really dont know how to describe it.
its not loud, if i have the radio on at all, i cant hear it, but im **** about my truck.
rpms also seem to wander at idle, no idea if related.
i think it started about two months ago.
1 month ago, i put injectors in it and it did not change the sound whatsoever.
did the hutch mod yesterday and it did not change the sound one iota (which is why i felt comfortable posting the video from before i did it)
truck does not use oil at all.
truck really has no blow by to speak of.
does not seem to miss.
not short on power.
this noise is not NEAR loud enough to be a rod in my opinion.
am i dealing with a injection pressure issue?
wrist pin?
bad lifter?
am i being a complete tool? and there is nothing wrong?
I'm not saying get over it... I'm saying you may end up in that camp.
Causes of knock that I've experienced:
- Aerated fuel
- Aerated oil.
- Loose injectors.
- Bad cushion ring on an injector.
- Tired oil.
- Mixing oil types (changing oil brand, but residual oil still in the rails).
- Hot outside temps or long hauls (the root cause of this one is still a mystery to me).
- Faulty reman injectors.
There's ****, then one notch above that (or below... depending on your point of view), you'll find me.
I'm not saying get over it... I'm saying you may end up in that camp.
Causes of knock that I've experienced:
- Aerated fuel Can i eliminate this as i have all new filters and the hutch mod now and no other leaks? or can there still be an issue?
- Aerated oil. What causes that on these engines? i do get "hundreds" of tiny bubbles on the dipstick lately, do not remeber if that was normal.
- Loose injectors. id like to call this eliminated because i put all new injectors in and it made noise unchanged before and after.
- Bad cushion ring on an injector. My new injectors of course came with new cushion rings and i did make sure the old ones came out.
- Tired oil. Only a couple hundred miles on oil change. it was also my first step in diagnosis
- Mixing oil types (changing oil brand, but residual oil still in the rails). ive always used the same name and weight (rotella 15-40) unless rotella changed their "recipe" or rotella was always bad?
- Hot outside temps or long hauls (the root cause of this one is still a mystery to me). though i first noticed it during a long haul, it was a light load and it continues to do it empty/loaded/cold/hot.
- Faulty reman injectors. though i have gotten bad new parts before...the noise is not new to the injectors. it was already there. so i would think not.
There's ****, then one notch above that (or below... depending on your point of view), you'll find me.
- Air introduced into the LPOP from a leak in the pickup tube (inside the oil pan)
- Maybe a bad seal on the vacuum side of the LPOP housing
- LPO system not really keeping up with HPOP (oil filter restriction, weak LPOP, pressure regulator failure, etc...)
- Valve guide leaks blowing a lot of air/exhaust into the oil up top
I'm about to make one more stab at the fuel system this weekend, parts are on the way. Stinky has a jaded past, and I have some different theories on what has resulted from his temper tantrums.
I forgot to mention fuel additive (with lube and cetane boost) has helped many members - everybody has their favorite product.
Whatever my issue is, it's been there for many tens of thousands of miles and it's not getting worse - but there are good days and bad days.
also. if they were leaking, you would get carbon build up under the valve covers? wouldnt you get pressure in the crankcase if it was that bad as well. something that would look similar to excessive blow by seen through the oil fill hole or dipstick tube?
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also. if they were leaking, you would get carbon build up under the valve covers? wouldnt you get pressure in the crankcase if it was that bad as well. something that would look similar to excessive blow by seen through the oil fill hole or dipstick tube?
You can't see this under normal circumstances, but I have a warm-up tune with the EBPV closed. This puts 15 PSI backpressure on the exhaust system at idle, and I can see the leaks.
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Believe me, i have tried to find an exhaust leak because thats kinda what i wanted it to be. i can learn to ignore an exhaust leak.
I may bust the valve covers off once again in the next couple of days if i get the motivation.
In the meantime. what i have noticed is bubbles on the dipstick after it has been running. ill post some pictures.
Disclaimer: i had a really hard time getting my phone to focus on something that close and i do not have a proper digital camera. so there were "opportunities" for better pictures with even more air but my phone would not focus without some fuss.
before i started the truck. sat over night.
Here, I started the truck and immediately walked to the front and pulled the dipstick. (5-10 seconds of running) those dots are not dirt or bearing material but in fact a ton of tiny air bubbles. debris does not pop and disappear like this.
These last three were after 2 or 3 minutes of idle. no revving. no driving.
More bubbles.
Had the stick out for a while at this point fighting with camera focus and watched a lot of the pop, run to the surface before this one took.
I dont know if that is a "normal" amount of bubbles. or if i am dealing with true aeration. but i have never seen any of my gas engines do that.
1. Is the correct oil being used? There are oil additives that will reduce / eliminate foaming. Although, that's not bad.
2. An oil analysis would provide some information as to the general condition and what it contains. That would be the best evidence since we can't see exactly what going on inside the engines lubrication system.
3. A wrist pin knock (actually slap) is not the end of the world and certainly not too advanced in your case if the audio is good.
4. A fuel stabilizer / treatment may assist with air in the fuel if in fact it is cackle.
can the CCV even get blocked on these engines?
how do i go about an oil analysis? does it show anything about foaming anyways as it all bubbles out. or would it show a reason for the foaming?












