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Though about it for a while and decided I didn't want to take up any room (even though there's a LOT) with a speaker box. I googled for some ideas and decided I'm going with the rear barn door design.
Nothing original just my take on it.
I'm planning on housing a 10" Alpine Type R subwoofer, hopefully in a vented enclosure but that will depend on how much volume I end up.
Took the panel off the door and taped out where I was planning on cutting, and then did some cutting.
I was VERY surprised to find out that the doors are fiberglass. I have no idea why that would be necessary but it's pretty cool either way.
I traced out the shape of the factory trim panel on some 3/4" MDF and cut it out.
For the contours inside of the door I traced out the side of the door and transferred that to a piece of MDF.
At this stage I would like to point out that I made a slight design change. I figured it would be easier to square everything off, so the rounded corners of the door cutouts. Also the square on the bottom left of the cutout is there to leave the factory door linkage undisturbed.
Checking fitment
Bottom piece ready to go in place. The gray stuff you see on the wood is an adhesive we use at work.
Checking fitment and measuring for a few more pieces
Waiting on a few pieces to set
I've been working on this on and off for a little over a week. I'm doing it during work hours so I have to manage my "extra" time wisely.
I'll be using fiberglass for the rear of the door as well as the contour at the top right.
That looks like a fantastic quality builder! Wondering how the finished product him up? Was thinking of doing the same thing to create an extra storage space and then put the original plastic and fuzz covered panels back over it somewhat like a hidden compartment but a place to put things like jumper cables or tow straps or other small items that would damage the doors.
I'm no audiophile, but would it have better worse to just cut that oval to the circle needed for the desired speaker. Then put the mdf with the correct hole on top of it. Just seems like that would preserve the strength of the door. I don't understand baffling, so I would just follow up with some poly fill. Could you just cut another circle and add a tube to port it then?
Back on track.........looks good. You surely know more than I do, just thought I would ask. Looking forward to the finish of this project.
Any reason you chose the driver's side over passenger? Less use?
My guess is that the drivers side is bigger. This was a timely bump. I really need to work on my sub and amp rear door install. I've been driving around with no rear door trim for a month or two now.
It really is annoying how they made the hinge and internal steel support structure take up half the door.
looks great keep it up, im interested in how much ratteling you get from doing this type of set up? im looking at doing a sub box in place of the spare tire area once i get the spare mount for my bumper.
looks great keep it up, im interested in how much ratteling you get from doing this type of set up? im looking at doing a sub box in place of the spare tire area once i get the spare mount for my bumper.
Not very much, cameeks has a 10" in each barn door and his rig barely squeaks when they bump.
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