Starter/Electrical Problem
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Joined: Aug 2014
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Starter/Electrical Problem
Seems like there is a lot of good info and good people on this site. First post.
So I just picked up a 1966 F100 4x4 long bed as my trip to the hardware store truck. The previous owner told me that sometimes when it's cold the truck won't start. Sure enough, this morning it was about 40 degrees out and when I turned the ignition I heard a solenoid click of the started but then lost all electrical function (no dash lights or anything electrical functioning) after a few minutes of sitting, I tried it again after the electrical seemed to magically start working again.
Same thing. I turn the key, get a click then boom, absolutely no power.
I'm pretty good with mechanical stuff but am pretty clueless when it come to anything electrical. I have a volt meter just wondering where I should start. I am thinking maybe a bad ground somewhere?
It's not my daily driver so I have the time to work on it. When I bought the truck a couple days ago during the daytime hours it would start up immediately when the key turned without any effort.
Thanks for any input.
So I just picked up a 1966 F100 4x4 long bed as my trip to the hardware store truck. The previous owner told me that sometimes when it's cold the truck won't start. Sure enough, this morning it was about 40 degrees out and when I turned the ignition I heard a solenoid click of the started but then lost all electrical function (no dash lights or anything electrical functioning) after a few minutes of sitting, I tried it again after the electrical seemed to magically start working again.
Same thing. I turn the key, get a click then boom, absolutely no power.
I'm pretty good with mechanical stuff but am pretty clueless when it come to anything electrical. I have a volt meter just wondering where I should start. I am thinking maybe a bad ground somewhere?
It's not my daily driver so I have the time to work on it. When I bought the truck a couple days ago during the daytime hours it would start up immediately when the key turned without any effort.
Thanks for any input.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 188
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Welcome.
Most likely - bad battery clamps and/or cables on the battery.
Next, a bad solenoid on the fender. Get one at your local autoparts place.
Possibly: Fried connections at the solenoid, loose nuts on the solenoid, and possibly a bad starter - but I wouldn't bet on that.
Most likely - bad battery clamps and/or cables on the battery.
Next, a bad solenoid on the fender. Get one at your local autoparts place.
Possibly: Fried connections at the solenoid, loose nuts on the solenoid, and possibly a bad starter - but I wouldn't bet on that.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Do yourself a favor and replace the "big three" battery grounding and starter cables. There's one from the block to firewall, and from starter/block to frame. The headlights draw indirectly from the latter
They are all corroded by now and will not come close to passing rated current. Maybe $20 or so. It pays to run a wire wheel or a file over the surfaces where the cables attach to the engine block, frame, firewall, etc. Clean, bright shiny metal at all grounding points is essential for these vintage beasts. Trust Me.
They are all corroded by now and will not come close to passing rated current. Maybe $20 or so. It pays to run a wire wheel or a file over the surfaces where the cables attach to the engine block, frame, firewall, etc. Clean, bright shiny metal at all grounding points is essential for these vintage beasts. Trust Me.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 118
I agree with tedster, sometimes the most obvious problem is the actual problem. After replacing the battery cables and making sure you have a good connection, place a voltmeter or 12v test light between the hot cable to the starter and ground. Make sure you're getting 12 volts when you turn the key. This will help you localize the source of the problem before you start throwing parts at it. Test lights are cheap and you can keep one in the cab for when you need it. Good luck!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Welcome to FTE: Agree!!! Before going thru and replacing electrical components begin at the starter and work back to the engine block, making sure all connectors are clean, secure, and no frayed wires. Surprising how residual buildup on bat. post can effect the circuit. Important to check the ground wire to the engine block and the bolts and surface for starter are clean and secure. If reside in extreme cold weather the 'cold crank' output of bat. may be important. With respect to connectors, I add a dab of dielectric grease on connections and ground surfaces, keep in mind the starter, and ground straps should be clean and secure. Posting couple pic's of start system for 65 Ford truck which is same/similar to 66. Again, welcome to FTE, post pix if and when you can, looking forward to your input!!
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...gncharge-2.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...78d9dbd7af.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...WireDiagP7.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...gncharge-2.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...78d9dbd7af.jpg
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...WireDiagP7.jpg
Well, there's a !%#^*i{# half hour of my life I'll never get back.
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Uncle Paul
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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