I seem to be going thru alot of igniton selynoids. I've used NAPA, Advance, & a mom & pop parts store. Tend to get a couple months out of them and gotta change it again. I thought it was the reman starters and changed it a couple of times too. This time I changed the alternator, voltage reg., starter, and selynoid. Hoping 1 of those solves the problem. I had someone turn the key while I smacked the starter and realized the clicking I heard was the selynoid. I also ordered a brand new starter thats going to replace the reman I just stuck on there. Good thing those starters come with a 1 yr warranty. Ive changed it twice in the last 3 month. Anyone else have problems with this and what did you do. Hope thats how you selynoid. I said it enough. Damn I said it again.

 

It is possible that your starter is drawing too much current, which is damaging the solenoid because of heat. Also check that the mounting surface of the solenoid is clean so that it grounds properly, and check that you have a good ground strap between the frame and the engine block so that the solenoid is actually grounding. This is all-too-often overlooked.

The following are all that's needed to close the starter circuit:
1. Healthy battery.
2. Heavy-gauge positive battery cable with clean connections between the positive battery terminal and the large battery post on the solenoid.
3. Solenoid bolted to the fenderwell on a clean surface.
4. Ground strap between frame\cab sheetmetal and engine block, in good shape.
5. Heavy-gauge negative battery cable with clean connections between the negative battery terminal and the engine block.
6. Healthy solenoid.
7. 12V on the "S" wire when the key is placed in start.

To make the starter actually turn, you need a heavy-gauage cable from the other large post of the solenoid down to the starter, with clean connections, and the starter itself bolted properly to the transmission bellhousing.

By the way, if you hear the solenoid clicking when you turn the key, that means it's working. Just because the starter doesn't turn, doesn't mean the solenoid isn't working. If you turn the key and the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't turn, the problem is one of the other items in my list. It's a simple circuit and doesn't take much to work so long as you do it right, which means checking off my list.

 

Thanks fmc. I replaced the cable to the starter too. it had rubbed thru from hitting the inner wheel well. The ground strap I replaced a couple of yrs ago but its going to get checked for sure. One of the screws is stripped out but its seem to hold. I'll fix that too. Alot of times when it doesnt start is after it ran for a little while. When it did that I had no electric. No lites, no radio, no horn. I noticed if I tapped the solenoid I'd get it back and sometimes it would start, other time I changed it & she fired rite up. I will go thru your list and see what happens. thanks again.

 

The stock Ford negative battery cable should have a tab part way down it that grounds to the fenderwell and then a large lug on the end that bolts to the engine. If the fenderwell connection is good you get electrical ground to the solenoid and the vehicle wiring. The biggest problem is the large spade that bolts to the engine block. If this connection comes loose or becomes corroded it really brings up the starter current. This is the cause of a lot of starter problems on these vehicles. There should also be a smaller braid that bolts the back of the intake manifold to the cab and a tab on the cowl that grounds the hood when it is closed. (Some radio amateurs put a braid between the hood and the cowling to provide a better ground)

Make sure all of these connections are clean and tight.

 

The negative batt cable was replaced a couple yrs ago. Dont know if the tab is still there for the fender well. The starter cable has the tab/bracket that hold it to the frame. It must not hold to tite cause where it curves up the wheel well it rubbed thru & corroded & some the wires had broke. I slapped a new cable on to get it home but still have to get it clamped down. Its a little longer so I can rerout it away from anything it can rub. Ive had 4 (have 2) of these trucks & none had the braided ground that you spoke of. The parts truck I took this cab off of had it on the hood, but it was in 2 pcs. I'd like to get it back on. I'm going to go over it Thurs. when Im off.

 

Here is a picture of the rear of my 460's intake. If you will look just to the left of the throttle rod at the rear of the manifold you will see the braid secured to the intake with a bolt with a 1/2-inch head. This braid goes directly to and is secured to the firewall. The strap on the hood that you are referring to is usually added later and some people put one on each side of the hood at the cowl to try to ground the hood better. The tab that I refer to on the ground cable is metal and is welded to the cable to provide a good ground to the fenderwell. It is not just a mounting tab to secure the cable.

 

Would the ground from the hood to the cowl make that much of a difference?

 

The ground from the hood to the cowl is for the underhood light. Many trucks originally came with a mercury-switch light on the hood that is switched on when the hood is lifted to an angle. The switch grounds by bolting to the hood, and often there is a ground strap between the hood and the cowl. Other than that, it's just a sheet-metal to sheet-metal connection and doesn't go back to the block, so it buys you nothing more.

wb6vvv has the exact strap that everyone needs. Or the battery cable with the smaller wire connection to the fender skirt works too, as he also mentioned. See how his ground strap connects to the block on an unpainted surface? That is important.

However you want to do it, you need a ground strap between the block and the frame\cab.

 

Make sure the connections are made to clean metal, not fresh paint. I have seen many instances of "bad electrics" traced to freshly painted pieces not providing good contaot. Running a tap in a threaded hole and a little wire brushing have fixed a lot of these problems.
Hope this helps.
Roger Carter

 

Yes, it is very important to make the connections shiny metal to metal contact before they are bolted together. If you are in a high moisture/salt environment it is also important to protect the connection from corrosion. And coat of good quality paint (like rustoleum) can be used to cover the connection, after it is bolted together, to help retard corrosion.

The amateur radio operators also add the straps between the hood and the cowl. They usually put one on each outer edge of the hood. This helps ground the hood and forms a Faraday Cage or shield. This helps keep all of the engine electrical interference in the engine compartment instead of in their radios. We usually make these out of eight-inch long pieces of RG58 type cable. You pull the center dielectric out and pull the outer sheath off and you have a nice piece of copper braid. Put a couple of spade lugs on each end, solder the spade lugs to the braid and you have a nice ground strap.

Although I have never done it I have seen guys put a larger braid at the rear of the transmission to ground the engine and transmission to the frame. They bolt the braid onto the rear tranny mount bolt and bolt the other end of the braid to the cross member.
They use braid exclusively because of the RF grounding effectiveness over wire. I am not sure if braid is necessary if you are just trying to get a good DC ground.

 

Hey gang. Did some investigating today.Found the ground from engine to cab. Not in the greatest of shape but still seems solid. Some rubber coating is off so probly some corrosion in there. I remember hookin this up when I did the cab swap, but still had to do some lookin for it. On my 351M its on driver side exhaust manifold. Gonna be a little tuff to get to with the fender on but I'll get it. Every thing else seems to check out. Didnt do the volt check on the "S" terminal but will get to it. Got my brand new starter other day. Made in China (thank you very much). $99 bucks. Hope I get better results than with the remans from Mexico.