Here's what I'm talking about.
Also, when you remove the main caps, don't get them mixed up. If they aren't already marked. Stamp them so you can put them back in the same position they were in originally.

 

The problem I've found with putting the Windsor in is it's set up with headers that are new with new copper gaskets and the headers won't work in this truck because it's 2WD and they hit the steering box. Also, I think the clutch bracket that bolts to the M bellhousing needs to be modified to work with the fins on the w bell. Along with exaust change and probably some other issues that might pop up. Radiator hose might be a little funky to figure out

Not to mention that I'd have to get a rear sump and oil pan for the M block to work in the 85 4x4

 

Just checked Ford D7AE-6A338-AA-8A 6 78

I can do this with the engine upside down on the stand? Will the weight of the crank hold the bearing down or do you do it with the block right side up with the caps a bit loose and remove one cap at a time?

 

Those are the original bearings (they were manufactured June '78). They'll be standard size.

You can do it with the engine upside down. The position doesn't matter. Remove one cap at a time. It may seem a little daunting but once you've done one, you'll see it's really simple. The hardest part of the whole thing is to get the top half of the new bearing started sliding in between the block and crank. Once you get enough room to get the installation tool in, it's pretty much a piece of cake.

 

Ok, so I checked the the main bearing oil clearance with a plastigauge and its .003 on all of them. From looking in the Haynes manual the tolerance is 0.0008-0.0026, so it's right on the maximum allowance. With new bearings the clearance should be right on.

So, I plan on a new Melling standard volume oil pump, brass freeze plugs, and King SI series Main bearings.

One other question about the "precision tool", do you risk scratching the block or losing it through the oil hole?

 

No, generally a 16d common nail's head is big enough to keep it from dropping into the crankshaft's oil galley. If the head is too small, just get a larger nail. One thing I usually do is make the angle of the nail head match the oil galley's angle.
When you stick the nail in the galley you'll see it goes in at an angle because that's how the galleys have to be drilled. You'll also see that the nail head isn't flat with the journal. If the angle makes it want to hit the edge of the block just put it in a vise and hit it with a hammer to make the angle of the head match the journal.

 

Gotcha! It'll be a couple days to get the parts, then we'll see how it goes.

Thanks for the advice!

 

Here's a quick sketch I did of the bearing tool.

 

Good deal!

 

I ran across this today. They used a cotter pin to fab the installation tool. Looks pretty simple.

 

I ended up using the cotter pin style and got all the bearings changed, worked pretty good. The only thing you have to watch out for is the tool sliding in between the bearing and the crank, that could be a nightmare!

It will be a few days till I get it running, I've decided to get a couple other new parts

Thanks again, you saved me a bundle!

 

Thanks for the update, good luck.

 

I tend to get myself into trouble when doing "small projects" and I did it again

I don't know if this should be posted in a new thread but here we go!

Once I had the motor out I wanted to paint the engine bay. I went with one coat of POR 15, brushed on, and then two coats of Rustoleum Hammered Black sprayed on. I couldn't just stop there, I had to go and tackle painting the chassis. For the chassis I decided to go with two coats of POR. I've got some painting left to do, but I got enough done to install the motor, transmission, and everything else.

Now for everything else! I hope everything holds up with the engine, but if it doesn't I figure I can still use the parts if I rebuild or buy a rebuilt.
Weiand intake
Holley aluminum 600cfm
Motorcraft plugs
thermostat
Clutch set
heater hoses
fuel hoses
power steering pump
belts
radiator cap
battery cables, grounds

Of course the engine has been painted along with a bunch of parts that I blasted with glass bead. I had the exhaust manifolds blasted with steel shot at a local machine shop and they looked amazing when I got them back. Knowing that look won't last forever I sprayed them with Eastwood manifold gray. The shop also machined the flywheel and installed a NOS Ford ring gear.

The manual brakes had to go too! One of the local yards had a 79 F150 with power brakes, so I grabbed the pedal assembly, booster, master (which had some brand new SS lines going to the proportion valve) some exterior trim pieces, and the cluster trim piece that wasn't all hacked up. I got a rebuilt booster and new master using the junkyard booster and master as cores. All new brakes in the rear! Drums, shoes, wheel cylinders,and hardware kit. The three brake hoses needed to be replaced, so that's done. Two new brake lines along the rear axle.

Drained the transmission to find tons of glittery sand with 1/2 a pint of gear oil!
Brought that to a local transmission shop. He called me up and said that 3-4 synchro assembly needed replacement along with some other "stuff", new seals and gaskets. Done!

The driveshafts were "put together" from the PO. He had two shafts with a carrier support and bearing. I did not know that this being a short box regular cab it's supposed to have a single driveshaft and I had new drive shafts made up with the same configuration, using the carrier with new u joints. Still a lot better than what was under there, he had a piece of threaded rod hose clamped around the end of the driveshaft balancing it I wonder how he figured out where the rod needed to be?

Also replaced the clutch linkage bushings and felt washers along with the clutch fork boot and the boot that the rod goes through on the floor.

I got the loose ends tied up today and took it for a ride, got back and no leaks. Let it cool down and took it for another ride, not so lucky this time. Either the rear main is leaking or the oil pan gasket And the transmission is leaking through one of the bolt holes in the power takeoff

There's a loud tick, but it might be the exhaust leaking, it doesn't seem constant. It's kind of hard to tell, I am a novice. I got disgusted with it and decided I should take a break and go back to it tomorrow...or the next day...or never

 

Don't give up on it!
That's a lot of work to walk away from.
The three problems you listed, while frustrating, sound pretty minor.
Track down the exhaust leak and fix it, get some #2 Permatex and put some on the leaking PTO cover bolt.
The "worst" problem is the pan/seal leak. Once you get the pan off, if it's the rear main seal leaking, that can be replaced with the engine in place. You don't need to pull the engine.

 

Just kidding about the never part. Changing the seal without taking the motor out is a pain, isn't it? Seems like you would have to lift it a mile to get the pan off.