A couple general questions

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Aug 4, 2014 | 11:18 AM

Shadowrider123

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Cargo Master

Joined: Oct 2007

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A couple general questions

Should there be welting between the rear fenders and bed on a 64 flareside?

Any local options for stainless steel fender to bed bolts or do I have to go through mail order?

How come my 64 short bed doesn't have the spare tire cutout in the left fender? I thought they all did.

When hot at idle my oil pressure is about 10lbs or less. I have not checked the gauge for accuracy yet. I noticed the oil pump on the 292 is external, is it rebuildable without dropping the pan?

Aug 4, 2014 | 12:00 PM

schoo

Logistics Pro

Joined: Mar 2012

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From: placer county usa?

I used welting at the rear fenders I painted to match body
fender bolts are welded on and mar-k sells them and others
spare was an option not every body wants one and it could go under frame
my oil pump was replaced in 1988 and works just fine 45psi at idle

Aug 5, 2014 | 10:20 AM

sseebart

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Joined: Jun 2014

Posts: 291

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From: California

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadowrider123

When hot at idle my oil pressure is about 10lbs or less. I have not checked the gauge for accuracy yet. I noticed the oil pump on the 292 is external, is it rebuildable without dropping the pan?

If memory serves, yes, you can pull the pump without dropping the pan. But, you could have a clogged intake, so best to figure on doing it all.

~Steve

Aug 5, 2014 | 11:09 AM

Shadowrider123

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Cargo Master

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My plan was to blow air back through the pickup once the pump was removed.

Aug 5, 2014 | 12:33 PM

sseebart

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Joined: Jun 2014

Posts: 291

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From: California

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadowrider123

My plan was to blow air back through the pickup once the pump was removed.

Hmmm. If it's all clogged up, can't think of anyplace good the gunk would end up with that method.

Aug 5, 2014 | 12:37 PM

svolpone

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Joined: Dec 2013

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From: Philly Suburbs, PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by sseebart

Hmmm. If it's all clogged up, can't think of anyplace good the gunk would end up with that method.

pump it into the cab of a chevy.

Aug 5, 2014 | 12:40 PM

Shadowrider123

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Cargo Master

Joined: Oct 2007

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I don't know if its clogged up or not, I don't know if it is working properly or not.

You are speculating on a lack of information.

Here are the facts as I know them:

1. I have owned the truck for 2 weeks, previous information unknown.

2. The truck is 50 years old, all information on the engine is unknown.

3. The oil pressure gauge reads 30psi at start up, 10 psi at temp. Accuracy of the oil pressure gauge is unknown.

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Aug 5, 2014 | 04:01 PM

sseebart

Senior User

Joined: Jun 2014

Posts: 291

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From: California

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadowrider123

I can only speak from my own experience. I've twice tried to increase oil pressure with new oil pumps, and in both cases it was not the pump, but worn bearings that were the culprit.

One of those was a 292 in a '64 F100 (back in the '80's)--it had oil pressure exactly like yours. Ran good, no smoke, not a ton of power though, either. When the new pump didn't have any effect, I went ahead and rebuilt the motor, which brought the pressure (and power) up to normal.

I talked recently with a machinist about my current truck (A '62, also with the 292). My mechanical gauge shows about 40 psi at speed, 30 or a little less at warm idle. He thought I was doing all right--his rule of thumb being 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm. (I am still planning a rebuild sooner rather than later.)

If this is a truck you want to keep, sounds to me like a rebuild is in order once you confirm the gauge readings you're getting. If it's just a driver, you're probably ok to leave it as-is, as long as you don't push it too hard. A new oil pump may help, but I wouldn't put a lot of faith in that curing your problem.

~Steve