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After a 20 yr absence from street rodding, I’m back with a freshly acquired 1954 F100. Reading everything I can get my hands on to get caught up on the current state of the hobby…..
Will have lot’s of questions going forward, but here’s 2 fairly simple ones;
1. Bought the truck after being in storage for 20 – 25 yrs. Rear fenders were already removed and sitting in the box. The bolts that attach the fenders to the bed are all there sticking through the bed. How do I get them out so I can work on the bed sides? Are they pressed in? Can I simply heat the metal around them and drive them out or are they spot welded to the bed sides?
2. Nobody seems to use fender welting any more….(Never cared for it myself). What do folks use now a days between the fenders and the bed?
777,
The bolts are spot welded on from inside of the bed. Three different spot welds for each bolt.
I my 48 when I restored it the nuts snapped off leaving only a portion of the bolts so I had to remove each one which a cold chisel, sometimes drill etc.. What a major pain. 13-14 bolts per fender.
On my 56 the nuts came off perfectly leaving the bolts intact on the interior of the bed. Perfect....I want them that way. It is real difficult putting the fender back on without the bolts to fit them into and hang on. Besides being spot welded, they don't spin when you try to take off again or loosen etc.
Hey...don't know about street rodding it but going original I did use some rubber fender lining...I picked it up from Sacromento Vinatage. Nice rubber bead...I like the looks. (48)...My 56 is still in the process of being restored...years away. Good luck with your and have fun. jim
I used vinyl fender welting on my '48 - it works well and is hardly visible with dark paint.
On other panels where I wanted to avoid metal-on-metal squeaks I used regular clear silicone caulk. I wouldn't recommend it on a showpiece, but seems to work well on my daily driver.
I don't particularly care for the look of fender welt, either. So on my last truck, I made my own. I bought a sheet of 30" x 6' x 0.060" teflon from a local plastics supplier (~$20). I layed the rear fenders on it and drew around them with a marker. I then cut out the "gaskets" (slightly smaller than the lines so that the white teflon would not show) and used masking tape to hold the gaskets to the fenders during assembly. I made some cardboard templates for the front fenders and used the left over teflon to make them.
The fenders don't squeak, the "welting" won't absorb water (so no rust) and the teflon won't stick to your paint. I thought it worked out pretty well and plan to use it on my current truck when I get that far. I have also used most of the scrap on other projects.
Kent
56 F-100
I am in the process of removing the bed to fender bolts to replace them with polished stainless. I am looking for chrome milar or smooth shiny fender welting because the body is dark color. The chrome welting I got from OFP was silver textured and I am too lazy to send it back. I still want chrome smooth welting if anyone knows a source??
Who is your source for the polished SS bed to fender bolts. The threads are so eaten away on mine, that I'll be forced to grind them out and replace them....
One more vote for JMLs rubber beaded welting. I love mine. Whatever you decide, use something or you'll lose your paint quick. I ground a couple of my fender bolts thin and them tapped off with a chisel. It's a pain in the rear. Contact me off FTE if you need any S/S fasteners for F100. fatfenders53(No Email Addresses In Posts!) or dewaynereding(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
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