Basically rebuilding the front end of my truck, anything else i should do while im in there?
#1
Basically rebuilding the front end of my truck, anything else i should do while im in there?
Well its finally time for a front end overhaul, the truck (2002 f250 SD 4x4) 106,000miles, needs new pads/rotors all around, fix abs/abs sensor, I have to fix my pass. exhaust manifold leak with broken bolts, gonna do the upper and lower ball joints, front axle dust seals, and put new oil in front diff....anything else anyone can think of while im in there? I figured whats the difference at this point...and also, can someone give me a part number for the Motorcraft? front axle dust seals? and are they inner or outer?
#2
I just did my ball joints on my 04' 250 4x4 this spring. I used Timken seals for both. I also bought new axle hun o-rings and needle bearings. Did not need the wheel bearings as mine were like new. You may want to put some grease in the unit bearings while you are there. I also changed the oil in my transfer case, it only takes 2 quarts.
The cheaper one is the dust seal.
More Information for TIMKEN 710413
More Information for TIMKEN 710493
The cheaper one is the dust seal.
More Information for TIMKEN 710413
More Information for TIMKEN 710493
#3
#4
Check your drag link to, my tie rid is still very tight at 195K miles, but my drag link is a little loose.
If anything, maybe your boots need to be replaced. ALL of mine were ripped. 4 poly ones are $10.
PRETTY sure these are the ones:
Amazon.com: Daystar KU13001BK 15mm - 19/32" x 35mm - 1 3/8" Tie Rod End Dust Boot - Pair: Automotive
Good time to pull the front driveshaft too and grease that slip joint.
These are the manifolds I went with: Information Page
-ended up paying $498 from JC whitney. The plain stainless are cheaper. OEM Ford manifolds are about $180 each, and dorman are about $75 each. I think the studs brake because the manifolds warp.
GREAT writeup: 2004 F250 Broken Exhuast Manifold Stud
OH and check the damn things to make sure you dont have EGR
#6
thanks, replaced hub lines last summer, and the calipers were replaced last summer too but cant hurt to check them again
#7
Just did that the other day. I usually suck the old fluid out of the master before I touch anything and fill it with fresh fluid. But my 2004 has a molded grate over the fill port and I could not get a turkey baster in there. Took twice as long to flush the old fluid!
Check your drag link to, my tie rid is still very tight at 195K miles, but my drag link is a little loose.
If anything, maybe your boots need to be replaced. ALL of mine were ripped. 4 poly ones are $10.
PRETTY sure these are the ones: Amazon.com: Daystar KU13001BK 15mm - 19/32" x 35mm - 1 3/8" Tie Rod End Dust Boot - Pair: Automotive
Good time to pull the front driveshaft too and grease that slip joint.
These are the manifolds I went with: Information Page
-ended up paying $498 from JC whitney. The plain stainless are cheaper. OEM Ford manifolds are about $180 each, and dorman are about $75 each. I think the studs brake because the manifolds warp.
GREAT writeup: 2004 F250 Broken Exhuast Manifold Stud
OH and check the damn things to make sure you dont have EGR
Check your drag link to, my tie rid is still very tight at 195K miles, but my drag link is a little loose.
If anything, maybe your boots need to be replaced. ALL of mine were ripped. 4 poly ones are $10.
PRETTY sure these are the ones: Amazon.com: Daystar KU13001BK 15mm - 19/32" x 35mm - 1 3/8" Tie Rod End Dust Boot - Pair: Automotive
Good time to pull the front driveshaft too and grease that slip joint.
These are the manifolds I went with: Information Page
-ended up paying $498 from JC whitney. The plain stainless are cheaper. OEM Ford manifolds are about $180 each, and dorman are about $75 each. I think the studs brake because the manifolds warp.
GREAT writeup: 2004 F250 Broken Exhuast Manifold Stud
OH and check the damn things to make sure you dont have EGR
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bradcdavis00
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07-08-2004 10:34 AM