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Basically rebuilding the front end of my truck, anything else i should do while im in there?

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Old 07-30-2014, 10:35 PM
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Question Basically rebuilding the front end of my truck, anything else i should do while im in there?

Well its finally time for a front end overhaul, the truck (2002 f250 SD 4x4) 106,000miles, needs new pads/rotors all around, fix abs/abs sensor, I have to fix my pass. exhaust manifold leak with broken bolts, gonna do the upper and lower ball joints, front axle dust seals, and put new oil in front diff....anything else anyone can think of while im in there? I figured whats the difference at this point...and also, can someone give me a part number for the Motorcraft? front axle dust seals? and are they inner or outer?
 
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:03 PM
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I just did my ball joints on my 04' 250 4x4 this spring. I used Timken seals for both. I also bought new axle hun o-rings and needle bearings. Did not need the wheel bearings as mine were like new. You may want to put some grease in the unit bearings while you are there. I also changed the oil in my transfer case, it only takes 2 quarts.

The cheaper one is the dust seal.

More Information for TIMKEN 710413

More Information for TIMKEN 710493
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:09 AM
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Inspect the soft brake lines to the calipers and soft lines to the auto locking hubs if you have it. Cheap insurance. Bleed the brakes system...more cheap insurance.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Inspect the soft brake lines to the calipers and soft lines to the auto locking hubs if you have it. Cheap insurance. Bleed the brakes system...more cheap insurance.
Just did that the other day. I usually suck the old fluid out of the master before I touch anything and fill it with fresh fluid. But my 2004 has a molded grate over the fill port and I could not get a turkey baster in there. Took twice as long to flush the old fluid!

Check your drag link to, my tie rid is still very tight at 195K miles, but my drag link is a little loose.

If anything, maybe your boots need to be replaced. ALL of mine were ripped. 4 poly ones are $10.

PRETTY sure these are the ones:
Amazon.com: Daystar KU13001BK 15mm - 19/32" x 35mm - 1 3/8" Tie Rod End Dust Boot - Pair: Automotive Amazon.com: Daystar KU13001BK 15mm - 19/32" x 35mm - 1 3/8" Tie Rod End Dust Boot - Pair: Automotive

Good time to pull the front driveshaft too and grease that slip joint.

These are the manifolds I went with: Information Page

-ended up paying $498 from JC whitney. The plain stainless are cheaper. OEM Ford manifolds are about $180 each, and dorman are about $75 each. I think the studs brake because the manifolds warp.

GREAT writeup: 2004 F250 Broken Exhuast Manifold Stud


OH and check the damn things to make sure you dont have EGR
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:57 PM
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Replace axle shaft u-joints. Too much work to have to go in there again and ruin the knuckle seals again when the joints do go bad.
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by droldsmorland
Inspect the soft brake lines to the calipers and soft lines to the auto locking hubs if you have it. Cheap insurance. Bleed the brakes system...more cheap insurance.
thanks, replaced hub lines last summer, and the calipers were replaced last summer too but cant hurt to check them again
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AAubinoe
Just did that the other day. I usually suck the old fluid out of the master before I touch anything and fill it with fresh fluid. But my 2004 has a molded grate over the fill port and I could not get a turkey baster in there. Took twice as long to flush the old fluid!

Check your drag link to, my tie rid is still very tight at 195K miles, but my drag link is a little loose.

If anything, maybe your boots need to be replaced. ALL of mine were ripped. 4 poly ones are $10.

PRETTY sure these are the ones: Amazon.com: Daystar KU13001BK 15mm - 19/32" x 35mm - 1 3/8" Tie Rod End Dust Boot - Pair: Automotive

Good time to pull the front driveshaft too and grease that slip joint.

These are the manifolds I went with: Information Page

-ended up paying $498 from JC whitney. The plain stainless are cheaper. OEM Ford manifolds are about $180 each, and dorman are about $75 each. I think the studs brake because the manifolds warp.

GREAT writeup: 2004 F250 Broken Exhuast Manifold Stud


OH and check the damn things to make sure you dont have EGR
wow thanks that is a great write up...I pray to god the manifold isn't warped, but you never know..from what I hear from people the studs break because they are steel and the heads are aluminum. but either way thanks for the info
 
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Modularation
Replace axle shaft u-joints. Too much work to have to go in there again and ruin the knuckle seals again when the joints do go bad.
yea I was thinking that too, I have to pull the shafts anyways to do the axle seals
 
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Old 08-01-2014, 05:38 AM
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Pressure wash the axle tubes before pulling the shafts to prevent ruining the inner seals upon reinstallation. If some water gets in the gear oil you are going to replace it anyway.
 
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