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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 11:25 PM
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360 to 390

Well the engine has been stripped down but no obvious site showing how water got in. Both head gaskets and intake gaskets were fine. On Tuesday the block and intake will go in for hot tanking before working on the block. Already have reconditioned short rods and have located a ready to go .10/.10 crank.

I would imagine that the old 360 rods and 360 crank are pretty much worthless and should probably junk them as I have no need and don't want to drag them around. Below are some pictures of the bearings and they weren't pretty. Lots of scratches with some deep.

Oh, on my Mopar forum I posted the pictures of the engine removal. Some were interested in the carb plate method and wanted to see how the engine bolted up to the stand. A few did comment on me using the lift to remove the intake by asking how heavy could it be?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 06:08 PM
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A fully dressed FE ? 700 pounds. I would not use a carb plate to lift it, especially if I had an aluminum intake. Certainly not with a vintage Ford (aluminum) intake.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 06:20 PM
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I had a 1000 lb. engine stand snap at the base with my 428cj. I don't use anything under a 2,000 lb. stand now. Cost me about 400 in parts and almost took my right fore arm off.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457
A fully dressed FE ? 700 pounds. I would not use a carb plate to lift it, especially if I had an aluminum intake. Certainly not with a vintage Ford (aluminum) intake.
Actually if you look into a Mustang Plus catalog you will see they did a test on a lift plate to see what it could handle. Even they were surprised when the plate held stress up to 4200 lbs. before the hole in the lift plate broke. The four bolts on the intake were still fine. That was good enough for me.

My engine stand is rated 1500 lbs and uses two extended legs and not the typical one.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2014 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by tbm3fan
Actually if you look into a Mustang Plus catalog you will see they did a test on a lift plate to see what it could handle. Even they were surprised when the plate held stress up to 4200 lbs. before the hole in the lift plate broke. The four bolts on the intake were still fine. That was good enough for me.

My engine stand is rated 1500 lbs and uses two extended legs and not the typical one.
It's not the plate that's at issue here. It's those four 5/16" bolts and the cast aluminum they're screwed into. You want to risk injury and parts that can turn out to be quite pricey to replace ? Go ahead. Not me. I've had one engine hoist become unbalanced and tip over with "only" a fully dressed 351W due to the load shifting while I was raising it. Same thing can and does happen all the time with heavier lifts. The intake and it's bolt bosses were never designed to be used as lift points. One thing you can be certain of is "**** happens" (parts and bolts break) when you least expect it.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 02:24 AM
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I never said it was cast aluminum especially at 80 lbs. The bolts are grade 8 and I'll take the article, with the science, behind it. The actual lift was perfectly balanced and only moved a total of 5 feet before coming down. No load shifting here and why would there be in a simple straight line. Besides a load will only shift if one hasn't planned the balance correctly ahead of time. So I think I'll stick with it my method for now. Thanks for the concern.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tbm3fan
A few did comment on me using the lift to remove the intake by asking how heavy could it be?
I'm going to assume you had the stock cast-iron intake on it

Now, back to the subject at hand instead of arguing about using a carb plate ...
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tbm3fan
No load shifting here and why would there be in a simple straight line. Besides a load will only shift if one hasn't planned the balance correctly ahead of time..
Expect the unexpected.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2014 | 12:11 PM
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First serious question now that the engine is being hot tanked.

On a completely stock 390 with COM auto that will rarely, if ever, see anything above 4500 rpm how important is it to use APR rod bolts versus the stock rod bolts?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tbm3fan
On a completely stock 390 with COM auto that will rarely, if ever, see anything above 4500 rpm how important is it to use APR rod bolts versus the stock rod bolts?
ARP bolts and studs are nice, but on a stock relatively low RPM rebuild not necessary.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 05:40 AM
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Agree with Mike, unless you have excess cash burning a hole in your pocket.......
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 11:24 PM
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That is what I figured. Got my crank delivered today so will be going to the shop on Wednesday with it and the other pieces that end up attached to the outside, some more parts to clean, and all the other metal that will get recycled. Should be going over what needs to be done and who supplies what. Now, last week, off the top of his head the machinist mentioned there isn't a lot of choice in 390 pistons. There were two other 390s sitting there done but they had forged pistons in them. Also wants to discuss the oil mods that are possible with the engine.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 11:32 PM
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Are you going high(er) or lower compression?

Having looked on a couple sites, it seems like there are several pistons for the 390.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 09:33 AM
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For the price, around $70, the ARP rod bolts are for peace of mind more than anything else. Who knows what the existing ones have been through, and how much are OEM replacements compared to ARPs?

As for pistons, on a mild build, weren't the 360 pistons a good way to go?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 03:25 PM
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360 pistons are 390 car spec pistons. Flat tops were 10.5, dished were 9.5 as OEM in mid-late '60s. Millions served, still on the menu.
 
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