brake caliper stuck
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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brake caliper stuck
1993 f250 7.3l 4wd. Yesterday my right front brake caliper stuck and it started smoking. I stopped for 20 minutes. and it went back to normal except the brake pedal was almost going to the floor and barely stopping. I replaced the brake master cylinder about 1 month ago, and all was fine til the caliper stuck.
I can replace the caliper, I just can't figure why I lost my brake pressure.
I can replace the caliper, I just can't figure why I lost my brake pressure.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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I just used whatever was handy; probably a mixture of both. Amount wise, enough to fill things to the top mark. If you get one of the larger bottles, it should be enough.
I'm pretty sure the 'right' stuff is dot-3, though.
I'm pretty sure the 'right' stuff is dot-3, though.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid are compatible with each other. It doesn't matter which you use, and they can be mixed with no problems. DOT4 has a higher boiling point, so could be considered better, though its not a large difference.
DOT5 on the other hand is completely different, and can't be mixed into a system that has DOT3 or DOT4. It can be used if the entire system is being replaced or completely cleaned out. DOT5 can be found in some motorcycles and collector cars. Its often used in restorations as it doesn't absorb water so won't cause corrosion in brake systems that sit for long periods of time. It also has the benefit of being safe for painted surfaces, as DOT3/4 fluids will destroy paint.
DOT5 on the other hand is completely different, and can't be mixed into a system that has DOT3 or DOT4. It can be used if the entire system is being replaced or completely cleaned out. DOT5 can be found in some motorcycles and collector cars. Its often used in restorations as it doesn't absorb water so won't cause corrosion in brake systems that sit for long periods of time. It also has the benefit of being safe for painted surfaces, as DOT3/4 fluids will destroy paint.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
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From: California
DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid are compatible with each other. It doesn't matter which you use, and they can be mixed with no problems. DOT4 has a higher boiling point, so could be considered better, though its not a large difference.
DOT5 on the other hand is completely different, and can't be mixed into a system that has DOT3 or DOT4. It can be used if the entire system is being replaced or completely cleaned out. DOT5 can be found in some motorcycles and collector cars. Its often used in restorations as it doesn't absorb water so won't cause corrosion in brake systems that sit for long periods of time. It also has the benefit of being safe for painted surfaces, as DOT3/4 fluids will destroy paint.
DOT5 on the other hand is completely different, and can't be mixed into a system that has DOT3 or DOT4. It can be used if the entire system is being replaced or completely cleaned out. DOT5 can be found in some motorcycles and collector cars. Its often used in restorations as it doesn't absorb water so won't cause corrosion in brake systems that sit for long periods of time. It also has the benefit of being safe for painted surfaces, as DOT3/4 fluids will destroy paint.
Awesome info. I want to do a full flush, so I'll see if I can find some colored fluid to verify it's completely flushed thru each bleeder. I did this on my Jetta TDI with some blue pentosin, and it's great to see the blue reach the end of the lines.
I had a caliper temporarily lock up on me today on the van. From reading other brake threads, I'm going to replace the calipers, pads, hoses, and fluid. Hopefully that will fix any future lock-ups.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Western SD
I had a front caliper lock up momentarily several times a few months ago. Just before I purchased a new caliper, I noticed a clean spot on my coil spring. I looked closer and noticed the brake line going to the caliper was too close to the coil spring. It turned out the solid part of the line going into the caliper was bent causing the line to slip into the spring so when I hit a bump when in a slight turn, the spring would pinch the line setting that caliper until I stopped the truck and the line would then slip out of the spring. If I hadn't noticed the clean spot on the spring and the line, I would have never figured it out.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
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From: California
I had a front caliper lock up momentarily several times a few months ago. Just before I purchased a new caliper, I noticed a clean spot on my coil spring. I looked closer and noticed the brake line going to the caliper was too close to the coil spring. It turned out the solid part of the line going into the caliper was bent causing the line to slip into the spring so when I hit a bump when in a slight turn, the spring would pinch the line setting that caliper until I stopped the truck and the line would then slip out of the spring. If I hadn't noticed the clean spot on the spring and the line, I would have never figured it out.
That's good to know
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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If you rebuild the caliper be sure to use metal pistons. I think rebuilt calipers come with metal pistons, not 100% sure though. Flushing the brake fluid every few years is good preventive maintenance. Hmm... I need to do that now that I think about it!
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: California
I ordered a Motorcraft caliper kit and hoses for both wheels, Amazon prime. I need the van on the weekend so I need to fix them asap. I hope the motorcraft caliper is up to par.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
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From: Western Mass
I would say the plastic (phenolic?) ones might be better as they won't corrode like metal ones would. Perhaps they won't conduct the heat as well, which I think would also be a benefit (isolating the pads from the fluid).
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,072
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From: California
I have a question. When I take the hoses off the caliper and brake lines, is there anything I need? Are there seals in there that I need, or does it just compress tight? I haven't received my new hoses in the mail yet, so maybe they will have the seals or whatever I need, but I don't know.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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Yes, phenolic pistons look good on paper when you compare them to metal. My experience however has been that in time they become groved by the o-ring and sieze in the caliper because they don't slide in/out freely. Ford used phenolic pistons for a few years but went back to metal pistons in the mid 90s. My 85 came with metal pistons, I rebuilt using phenolic, had issues a few years later, rebuilt again using metal about 10 years ago, no problems since.