OK, i'm working on my complete engine refresh/rebuild, but am thinking i'll try to keep the project threads as stand-alones, then link them all back to the big rebuild thread.

so, the first big non-bolt-on project will by mounting up the S366 that just came in the mail. first, thanks to all of you guys for the advice on turbo direction. i almost went with a stock SD setup, but made an expensive u-turn at the last minute toward the S366 and from all my reading, don't think i will regret it.

ok, not to the meat - as most of my threads seem to start, i have questions for the experts. the DIY T4 mount seems straightforward enough considering my fab and weld skills, but after some initial research:

- i couldn't find any manuals or instruction sheets online for the turbo and the BW 2-page text-only instruction sheet isn't much help. when i clock the housings to my preferred orientation, what is the torque spec on the housing bolts - compressor and exhaust? and i'm assuming anti-seize is a must?

- and related to that - from the exploded diagrams i've found, it looks like the housings mate to the center section just by a compression fitting of sorts. is this right? if so, is there any sealant at this mating surface that need be re-applied?

- it seems most kits and DIY-ers have the t-4 flange mount/pedestal standing vertical. it seems it would make sense to tilt this downward a bit to ease the entrance bend from the up-pipes. anyone disagree?

- up-pipes: not sure if it'll be possible, but i'd like to plan for it now as much as possible. i plan to cut and bump my cab floor and hopefully squeeze a 4" DP in. are there any good ones off the shelf for the S300/366 that i can buy now and use for mockup during the process? or anything close out there?

ok, the kids are up - gotta wrap it up for now.

as usual though - any and all feedback is greatly appreciated!

 

ok the comp cover just tighten them down tight but dont crank on em as for the fit between them they are a machined fit no sealant or what not as for the vertical ness it is designed so that you can fit a different turbo down the road ie 400 series turbo which is much larger than a 300 series i have had quite a few turbos on my truck irrc 7 of them 300 series and 400 seres turbos. the 4 inch down pipe is not neccesary as the 300 seres only use a 3.5 flange outlet pipe but it is up to you

 

thanks rodney.

ok - thanks - same for the exhaust housing then? i noticed the the hardware is only class 8.8 (or maybe less), so they defintely don't want much torque.

...makes sense! anyone happen to have dimensions handy on how tall off the flat mount plate the t4 mount should stand? to centerline or bolt holes or whatever would be fine.

...and got it. i was looking at this image: http://www.theboostlab.com/store/pro...dimensions.jpg, but i guess that's the outside of the v-band flange that is the 4.21" dimension.

also - i noticed in the the barn today that my stock OBS y-pipe seems like it would mate up exactly with the inlet of the exhaust housing on the S300/366. i know the T4 mount eliminates this, but i can't help but wonder if i couldn't rig (probably the operative word) up a mount using this y-pipe and saving some fab work.

i guess it would involve welding stainless to cast iron though, or having a mechanical connection from the up-pipes to the collector - that could then leak again.

probably should just do it the way everyone else does...

and finally, i plan to use this fitting to adapt to the engine block oil supply port (through the mount plate): O-Ring Face Seal (ORFS) x SAE 37° Flare (JIC) Adapter (PN FS6403-04-04). any disagreements? then, i'd make up a hose at work, or maybe use hardline stainless. thought?

 

the exhaust housing same thing all machined fit and i dont have my truck here to measure the hight of the t4 flange. the obs turbo is a t4 turbo but a major headache to try to make an adaptor to work with the 366

 

i missed one part the fitting aint nothing special you can use a npt to -6 jic fitting thru the mount plate and seal the plate to the block using the factory orings like irate and turbontics does and use braided high temp hose for the feed as hard lines will be a pain in the *** to build and install the 366 uses a npt fitting for the feed

 

thanks for the quick responses, rodney. keeping me moving forward! i'm just sitting here watching the kids and building shopping lists for the different projects going on right now :-)

everything's moving pretty well - i'm somewhat hung up on my exhaust manifold/up-pipe direction, but otherwise OK. hoping to find a used set somewhere as a starting point, but coming up empty so far...

 

no problem!!

 

I nave a couple 6.0 up pipes.they are 2"diameter...they are bellowed and could be added to to get where you need to.

 

Hmm. Well I'm not too familiar with 6.0 details, but does that engine use the same/similar manifolds as the SD 7.3? Or could 6.0 manifolds bolt to a 7.3 block?

As long as the pipes bolt to a manifold I can get a hold of and point in the general right direction, i could take it from there.

Thanks for the offer. Time to poke around on the internets for some 6.0 up pipe pics...

 

Subscribing...

 

Um..none of the above...if ..I were doing it..I would cut the stock up pipe in a straight place that works and then cut the 6.0 pipe and use the bellowed section then build new pipe up to the turbo collector.
Truthfully a set of bellows is pretty cheap.may be better off with new .just trying to help a brothers budjet any bit I can anyway.

 

Do not waste your time cutting oem 6.0 pipes to use the bellows. We keep new ones in stock for the 6.0 because we replace so many of them. They are junk from Ford and don't last, especially once you bend and move them even to unbolt them.
Just get new bellows from Vibrant/Verocious Motorsports.

No way a 4" downpipe will ever fit without either a 3" body lift, or cutting the cab and graft in a half-section of 5" pipe.

 

Good info!
Are you talking about Vibrant Performance?
Flexible Couplings

And it appears Verocious sells Vibrants bellows.
Stainless Steel Exhaust Bellow Assemblies - Vibrant Performance

Not a bad price either. $30 x 2 plus some welding rod and you have no more donut gasket!

 

Alex,
Yes, yes, and yeah pretty much. If you have a spare motor, turbo, manifolds etc, and some cutting and welding skills, it's not too bad of a job.

 

thanks for the info, Jim. yeah, i'm not going the 6.0 route. i'm getting a pair of used OBS manifolds from a fellow FTE-er and will be DIYing the bellows as you describe.

...and by the way - we just talked on the phone like 30 mins ago :-)