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looking through tube and pipe fitting charts - 1/2" AN (37 degree flare) fittings have an effective pass-through diamter of .39" in the fitting itself. compression fittings (as Bill used) have a nominal .400 pass-though diamter. i guess that's why the kits use 5/8" fittings, which have a nominal pass-through diamter of 0.48 in AN fittings.
So, Tyler, do you recall what the thread size/fitting connection at the turbo drain itself was? it seems like it'd be really tough to fit anythign much above 1/2" pipe thread in that space.
edit: after some searching, looks like i may go with one of these two into a welded pipe fitting on my DIY turbo drain plate... McMaster-Carr or, if space dictates, a much pricier elbow version McMaster-Carr
I made the piece that bolts to the bottom of the turbo for the drain. If I remember correctly, it is a piece of 1/2" think steel with a hole drilled in it and tapped for 1/2" NPT and the two bolt holes. This whole thing is was tricky to get in. Had to put one of the bolts in the hole then put the fitting in then bolt it to turbo. Hard to explain without being able to actually show you.
I know exactly what you mean, actually! I've got my plate made and 45 degree fitting in hand. Been thinking of the same order of operation.
With my angled turbo,though I may get away with angling the 45 fitting and squeaking a socket cap screw past it.
I never really even thought about angling the turbo when I did mine. Every one I had seen was straight. I like the looks of it sitting straight, but it does make it harder to build the down pipe.
I never really even thought about angling the turbo when I did mine. Every one I had seen was straight. I like the looks of it sitting straight, but it does make it harder to build the down pipe.
Mine is angled quite a bit. Downpipe was still a PITA because of how the dummy built the passenger side uppipe. You can see how far up it comes in the pic I posted before... I think I'm going to pull these and install Irate pipes.....
Originally Posted by ReBilld
I made the piece that bolts to the bottom of the turbo for the drain. If I remember correctly, it is a piece of 1/2" think steel with a hole drilled in it and tapped for 1/2" NPT and the two bolt holes. This whole thing is was tricky to get in. Had to put one of the bolts in the hole then put the fitting in then bolt it to turbo. Hard to explain without being able to actually show you.
You did that wrong... A piece of 1/2" thick steel isn't thick enough to tap NPT threads in correctly....
Maybe it was 3/8" NPT....I'd have to go look. Either way it worked
Bill, I may be wrong, but I think that comment by Travis was a knock on my anti-npt stance from above :-).
If so, I deserve it!
My plan for the drain line now include 3/8" npt to 1/2 tube compression fittings. BUT I'll be drilling the pipe side of the fittings out to ~0.450 for extra flow. There's plenty of wall there to drill and this'll get me to the effective ID of 1/2" fittings. Kind of hack-ish, I know, but least effort from where I am now and there's really no pressure in these fittings so should be just fine.
Some very minor recent progress on this part of the larger truck project, but might as well post some pics that I’ve taken.
Here’s my turbo oil drain fitting into the old fuel pump hole. It’s a ½” compression fitting going into an aluminum fitting made on the lathe. I’ll be running ½” tube from the turbo outlet drain to this fitting
I meant to take a picture of my sketch that I made the part to. If anyone wants that sketch, just let me know.
I also made up the drain fitting on the turbo, by welding a fitting to a plate and machining the gasket mating surface. Apparently I didn’t take a picture of that yet, though…
but i bought it at the Eastwood store in Pottstown, here in PA, so i don't have my receipt in email form to check it against. i'll have to look at the can in the barn when i rememember. please hold!
it doesnt look much like the shade of grey in the picture, but i'm happy with it. it seems to be darn tough, though. i sprayed the excess in the gun on an old file cabinet in the barn. it was dusty and probably covered with years of grime, but the paint stuck quite well. i had to use alot of force with a screwdriver to get it to scratch after a week of curing.
i did use the optional 4:1 activator as well. they also have it in a catalyzed rattle can now, which would save on cleanup.
i got my T4 mount and uppipes tacked up over the weekend and had my welder-buddy tig them up for me today. they look SWEET, but he pointed out that the sections from the stock passenger side up-pipe were magnetic, whereas everything else was not. i.e., my new bends and the driver's stock pipe were stainless, and the driver's one was plain steel, or a magnetic (lesser) alloy stainless.
i'm pretty sure the passenger side up pipe was not a replacement on this engine, but really have no way of knowing...
i guess there was no question there, more of a statement. i checked my other engine last night. it was the same way. the passenger side on both was definitely rustier as well. not pitted rust anywhere like if it were plain steel, but its definitely a lesser grade of stainless over there. i wonder why...
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