Expedition, IACV change

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Jul 12, 2003 | 05:02 PM

#16

bigfishford

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Expedition, IACV change

Well, I could only get one from the dealer (and, I had to call three different dealers to find one) for about $80! Thanks for all the feedback and feedback.

Sep 11, 2003 | 05:31 PM

#17

gt390ford

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From: Houston

Expedition, IACV change

He's right on the part number too. Go to http://www.oreillyauto.com/ and do a part inquiry for an idle air control valve. There it is big as day for $60.99 or 68.99 though I do not know the difference between in them. THey also list a Borg Warner part for $38.

Is this a part that is designed to fail? It is surprising to see all the problems something that at least seems to be pretty innocuous.

I scrubbed mine last time with carb cleaner but have since heard that it can dry it out causing it to stick. Next time I'll try some more friendly fluids.

Also this time I got a check engine light. Do you suspect that cleaning it or changing the IACV will rectify my problem and correct my light or will someone have to actually reset the light?

Kevin

Sep 11, 2003 | 07:02 PM

#18

verbal kint

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Expedition, IACV change

Ya brake fluid is not very friendly to electronic parts. CRC makes a variety of specialty cleaners. They have an air intake cleaner that would probably work best for this application. I think that this is another one of fords parts that are designed to fail. Once you have replaced the IAC or cleaned it you should reset your computer by disconneting the negative battery terminal for about two minutes. That should keep the check engine light from coming on. Hope that helps.

Todd

Oct 2, 2003 | 10:28 AM

#19

Dismuke

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I believe I have a bad IACV on my 2000 Expedition. I have to drive with one foot on t

I believe I have a bad IACV on my 2000 Expedition. I have to drive with one foot on the brake and another on the gas to keep it from stalling due to low RPM. No engine lights or codes come up at all. Sometimes it runs perfect. Usually in the morning it is bad. Can anyone tell me how difficult this is to change? It looks like you need to be Gumby to get behind the IAC to exchnge it?

I took mine off yesterday and cleaned it with brake cleaner and put some oil on it. My truck runs very good now, I had the same problems that you had. I would try that first before spending the $80+ on a new one.

Oct 2, 2003 | 11:22 AM

#20

katneric

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From: Virginia

I just replaced that part on my 99 EB. It was a simple procedure and didn't take much time. I got the part from a Federated Auto Parts store. $62.87 and out the door I went. I decided to change it rather than clean it. Seems like I have seem a number of posts on this site that indicates it doesn't take long to become non-functional again after cleaning. It's not cold here in the mountains of VA yet, but I dont want to have to do this in January.

Eric

Oct 2, 2003 | 11:51 AM

#21

Dismuke

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I agree with you. The only reason I chose to clean it rather than change it, was that I was not totally sure that the valve was the problem.

I know that the valve will go out at some point, but when it does I will know what to look for.

Oct 2, 2003 | 11:27 PM

#22

BigMattXXL

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From: Annapolis, Maryland

Re: Expedition, IACV change

Quote:

Originally posted by gt390ford
Is this a part that is designed to fail? It is surprising to see all the problems something that at least seems to be pretty innocuous.

I don't think it's so much designed to fail as it is just poorly designed. Like I said, Ford changed the design - when you buy a new one, the internals look different. I'm guessing Ford figured out that the IAC was guaranteed to fail and fixed it.

I'm thinking they're still emptying their inventory of the old models by putting them in newer vehicles. Eventually the new design will be standard.

XXL

Oct 2, 2003 | 11:29 PM

#23

BigMattXXL

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From: Annapolis, Maryland

Re: I believe I have a bad IACV on my 2000 Expedition. I have to drive with one foot on t

Quote:

Originally posted by Dismuke
I believe I have a bad IACV on my 2000 Expedition. I have to drive with one foot on the brake and another on the gas to keep it from stalling due to low RPM. No engine lights or codes come up at all. Sometimes it runs perfect. Usually in the morning it is bad. Can anyone tell me how difficult this is to change? It looks like you need to be Gumby to get behind the IAC to exchnge it?

I took mine off yesterday and cleaned it with brake cleaner and put some oil on it. My truck runs very good now, I had the same problems that you had. I would try that first before spending the $80+ on a new one.

I'm glad your problem was solved with relative ease. The only problem is that the oil will hold on to crud (who knows how it gets in there?) and cause another failure.

You can squeeze a few more miles out of a faulty IAC by cleaning it, but you're still living on borrowed time.

Change it before it gets real cold out!