Well I finally got time scheduled with my buddy to do the install and here is how it went.

Warning if you disconnect the fuel lines for ease of access (not necessary) don't be a dumb-*** like me and forget to purge the lines. You will vapor lock the engine and be sad as you watch it get towed to the dealership......Not that I know or anything....

You will need various hand tools, an 8mm, 12 point socket, air chisel. I removed my tire to make it easier to remove the last 2 bolts. You can do it with the tire on it is just very tight.

Remove the air box and all coolant line hoses. Have some rubber glove finger sections handy as several points will leak coolant like there is no tomorrow.

Remove the upper intake manifold by removing all the 8mm bolts. There are several that are difficult to get to and almost impossible without a universal joint. To get to the last few bolts on the drivers side disconnect the dip sticks and push them to the side. Once all the bolts are out and the MAS is disconnected carefully remove the intake. It will come out at an weird angle towards the drivers side.

Once it is out set it on a clean surface and remove the exhaust pipe from the engine disconnecting the wiring harness below the forward portion of the intake. You will then disconnect the oil evap line and wire from the intake on the drivers side. Once that is complete loosen the boots from the intake and turbo. Once it is disconnected unbolt the manifold from the engine (3) 10mm bolts. Carefully lift out. This will expose the turbo to work on.

For the turbo remove the oil line that is on the passenger's side by removing the retaining clips and then pull the hose off. Do the same on the driver's side for the coolant line. Be ready to plug the coolant line so you don't flood the valley. With the lines out of the way. I removed the fuel lines to allow for ease of access when it came time to pull the turbo out of the engine. Remove the 3 bolts from in front of the turbo. Remove the 4 bolts holding the turbo in place and remove the upper bolt for the exhaust inlet pipe. (I put a temp probe on the pipe to operate a turbo timer). Once you have the top bolt removed, take off the tire (very tight fit if you don't), remove the wheel well insert, and the last two bolts for the pipe. Once it is all disconnected loosen the v-band clamp on the turbo housing and tap the cast iron parts with the air chisel to break it free. Once it is free lift out.

With the turbo out of the engine, remove the cover plate with the 8mm 12 point socket. Once the cover is off carefully clamp the impeller shaft with vice grips. You don't need a lot of force as the wheel comes off easily. It is reveres threaded. Once the old wheel is off just spin the new one on and reassemble everything.

If you disconnected the fuel lines PURGE THE SYSTEM before starting or you get to see how awesome it sounds for about 2-4 seconds.

Once I get my truck back

Starting




Removal of the air intake




Removal of the upper intake manifold




Removal of the lower intake manifold




Close of of what the front of the turbo looks with some lines disconnected to make it easier to remove.






Turbo pulled




Wicked Wheelz left stock right




just hand tighten on the center shaft after you clean it up.




Temp probe for the turbo timer.


....I will post on how it runs with the new wheel.

 

Great post brother. Obviously can you take a video of how it sounds? What kind of improves have you seen through power? Also any MPG gains? All things me and I'm sure a lot of other people are wondering Thanks again for the pictures and tutorial. Will come in handy when I put my Wicked Wheel in.

 

Tofan,

I will post all that stuff when I get it back from the dealership. I didn't purge the fuel lines because I got so excited and vapor-locked the engine so she won't start.

 

Will she try to start and nothing will happen? When I had the whole fuel injector break, mine was like that. Infact it got to a point where she died after I got her started. All it took was about 15 times turning the key to on and then off. Once she started after like 6 times trying, she would run and I would drive it and by the end of the day, she started every time.

 

She ran for about 3-4 seconds before she cut out. It then had a very hard time even turning the engine. I did get it to start 1 other time (turning the key on/off for 10 minutes) after the initial stall but she ran for about a second before she died. After the second time she barely through and then quit wouldn't do a damn thing when you turned the key to start.

 

Hmm. I hope everything is ok. I don't think I have ever heard of an engine that was "vapor" locked. I have heard of Hydro Locked, and I know that it's not a good thing. Whats the solution to a vehicle that has been "vapor" locked?

 

Well if it is in-fact vapor locked, which I will find out here in the next day or so. A large amount of air made it to the injectors which makes the fuel system unable to create a vacuum to suck more fuel into the cylinders and the cylinder pressure is high enough to not allow for a full "throw." You pretty much have to bleed the system to release the built up pressure and clear the air out of the lines. This primarily deals with heavy equipment by it can happen to any type of diesel. I didn't have any engine codes so with the way it died, and the hard time it had turning over leads me to believe that this is the case. With the old diesels you could clear it out yourself but I don't know how you would do it with anything that has a HPFP.

 

Oh I see now, that definitely makes sense. I appreciate it. When are you supposed to get your rig back?

 

Vary nice, minus the towing bit.

Great pics too

 

Great install so far.

Curious if this would help with towing and provide some engine braking for those down hill grades.

 

Cool pics so far...sorry about it not starting. I hope when you get it going you are happy with the results!

 

Thanks for sharing, like the others said, I'm really interested in how it works out for you. I assume your truck is otherwise stock?I know that was the case with mechanically injected diesels, but my understanding with Common Rails you can't/don't need to bleed, and that its self bleeding, and that you should just cycle the fuel pump a number of times to get the air out of the system prior to the HPFP. You also may need to attempt to crank the truck a few times if you have air between the HPFP and the injectors. Am I wrong?

 

Only thing I can think that may have happened is the fuel cutoff tripped because of this.

 

Well I just got the news back from the dealership.....the HPFP blew....FML...Waiting to hear back from my insurance company to see what they say...So it may take me a little extra time to post anything on the new wheel. When we pulled the fuel lines we were careful not to get anything in there but it doesn't look like it worked. Best Advice don't touch the #^$@&# fuel lines.

 

You didn't cap the fuel lines? Starvation is what I believe happened.

What about the injectors?