When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Help. How do I bypass the shift park interlock--or whatever it's called that requires you to have your foot on the brake to shift out of park? The Aerostar is a '94 4.0 4wd. The truck starts and runs normally, but when trying to shift out of Park it feels like the brake isn't depressed and it's still locked in Park. The solenoid may well need to be replaced, but I'm trying to avoid a tow and just get the thing home. Or it may be something else altogether, but this is one place to start. (I know there has to be some way to bypass the interlock. A lot of cars have them on the console next to the shifter...but I haven't seen anything on cars with a column shifter. Thanks!
I have just replaced mine on my brake pedal. I can't tell you where or how to bypass, as I never knew you could
But I found out suddenly on someone elses driveway that I could not get out of park! I had to leave it there overnight. I went back the next day and peered under the dash, etc, to see what was underneath. I found that by wiggling that switch on the brake pedal and it moved a hair up, then I could change out of Park. So I managed for a couple of days by giving it a kick upwards with my toe if it was stuck in park. The new switch was CDN$12 at Ford. So hopefully you can slide your toe up the brake pedal shaft and tap the thing too. good luck.
Thanks. I'll check that out when I drive the two hours to where my daughter had to leave it parked in a Walmart parking lot tonight.
I figured there had to be a bypass somewhere because you may need to move the vehicle when the interlock won't unlock with the brake pedal. Like I said, I've seen them on cars with floor shifters on center consoles, but not on cars with column shifters. They may be there, but I haven't noticed.
I'll let everyone know what I find out. Let's hope it's that simple.
I thought I'd pass along the results of my efforts today:
The shift interlock on the Aerostar is combined with the brake light switch. There's no override, then, because if the switch were malfunctioning--not lighting up the brake lights--would you want to send someone out on the street like that? Better yet, would Ford's lawyers want to?
So anyway, I removed the switch and took it in to a local dealer who didn't have the switch in stock but could order it for later afternoon delivery. I went back to the truck and "practiced" installing the old switch so I could do it easily when the new switch came. Lo and behold, when I had it all put together again, exactly the way it came out, it worked. Go figure. It must have been Devine intervention. Thank you, my prayers were answered. Now let's see how long it keeps working.
Yes you wouldn't want to drive too far like that with no brake lights. I found with mine that it was worn a little where the big hole was. So it sort of moved up and down too much and was not aligned right or something. So then it would get bad contact or something. Once I tap it with my toe and get out of park, I hoped it would stay Ok long enough to get home really. It was sort of fine for a day, then a couple of days later it did it again once it got settled in its old possition again or something. I replaced it then anyway, just to be sure it wouldn't leave my wife stranded, and its been absolutely trouble free since then.
I have some other work to do on that truck this summer...including changing the spark plugs, something I'm dreading, from all I've heard. So I'll get one of those and throw it on when I do that.
Just to make sure it wasn't a fluke this time, however, I became the human brake tester and applied the brake a hundred times or more, including hard and soft, and drove to shake the chassis a bit.
myvan, when you got your new switch, did it include a new bushing?
Thanks for the info. I found myself "Stuck in Park" after backing a friends trailer into place after borrowing it the other day. After trying the brake pedal and various other things, I crawled under the dash and pulled the shift cable loose and shifted it into neutral in order to start the engine, then shifted it into drive to get home. After reading your column, I checked and found I had no brake lights. Apparently when backing the trailer, I had blown the brake light fuse. I replaced the fuse and had no further problems. I recommend checking the fuse first, It's the cheapest and simplest solution.
Good thought. I have also heard that if you turn your key towards on but not far enough for everything to come on (just far enough to unlock the steering wheel) that you can shift to say neutral, and start the veh. only thing lock does is hold park so, once your out of park you shouldn't have problems. Tried it in the shop one day and it does work. Just thought I mention that if someone wouldn't want to (have to) leave their veh somewhere.
I was able to keep from having mine towed or having to leave it somewhere by disconnecting the shifter cable located at the end of the shifter column close to the floor. It's just a little ball joint and can be pulled off by hand. The tranny can then be shifted by hand by pulling the cable out or pushing it in. You can feel it catch each gear. Shift it into neutral by hand and start the vehicle and then put it in drive.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.