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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 09:48 PM
  #1  
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Not Starting

I have a 2009 F150 with 100,000+ miles on it. It will crank, but it won't start. It was sitting for 10 days while I was away on vacation. It was running just fine before I left. I though it might be the battery so I changed it and it still won't turn over. I read about a fuel pump driver module on the 04-08 models, but I'm not sure if the '09's have had an issue. My only thoughts would be the starter or the fuel pump. Has anyone else had an issue like this? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 01:59 PM
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I'm having a similar problem with a 2009 F150 with just over 100,000 miles on it also. 2 weeks ago twice it cranked a few seconds before starting--never did this before. Last week it wouldn't start once it warmed up--did this consistently for about 4 days. Now it won't start at all. Cranks fine, no error codes, no idea what the problem is. Ford dealer can't look at it till next week. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 03:19 PM
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Only mentioning this because it has been discussed here recently. Something y'all both can do while waiting on the dealer to have room, is pop the hood and check the condition of fuse #27 in the power box on top of the radiator. This is the fuel pump relay fuse. The contacts of the socket are small and generates enough heat to melt the fuse, causing a crank, no start condition. Worth a look at least.

Heres a bit of reading on it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...pump-fuse.html
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 04:12 PM
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WOW! I think you nailed it bigdaddyII. Checked fuse 27, one side of it was melted and the contact on that side fell on the ground when I touched it (though it did come out with the fuse). Put another fuse in and it still won't start but I think the problem is that the fuse holder contact on that side is melted. I'm going to try to find a workaround, like maybe a jumper wire, enough to get it started to get it to the Ford shop.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 04:15 PM
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Glad I could help. Good luck with it. If you have a few days and a soldering iron you can fix it yourself if you're handy. Just read through the instructions I posted in the thread I linked earlier. Its easy and I did my truck as a preventative measure. It totally relocates the fuse in the box and replaces it with a different type.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 04:34 PM
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You did nail it bigdaddyII! Stupid me--after pulling the 20A fuse from 27 I walked into the shop to get another 20A fuse and when I got back to the truck I put the new fuse in slot 44, evidently not used on my truck. While looking at it for a workaround I realized I'd put the fuse in slot 44 instead of 27, took the fuse out of 44 and put it in 27 and it started right up! Either I or the Ford dealer is still going to have to do something about it since the contacts in slot 27 are obviously burned.
One thing I don't understand - why is it melting one side of the fuse and burning the contacts instead of just blowing the fuse? It seems to me that if the fuel pump is drawing too many amps for there is a short or some kind of problem in the fuel pump system it should just blow the fuse, not melt the fuse and burn the contacts, I thought that was the point in fuses.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 06:46 AM
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My theory is that its a heat buildup due to a poor connection thats melting the fuses. When I pulled my fuse out after doing the TSB to relocate it, I could see a tiny little divot when the contact obviously mated with the blade of the fuse. I think there's too many amps trying to be conducted through a little bitty passageway. My train of thought also is evidenced by the fact that the kit replaces that 20 amp fuse with another 20 amp fuse......but of a different style, the new fuse provides full contact across the blade of the socket, not just a tiny paperclip sized piece of metal.
 
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