Throttle/kickdown springs
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,172
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
43 views and no one has said "let me go look under my hood", wow. I am long way from my trucks and will give it a guess, like a faint memory check.
As far as your question, NO the front one should be connected to the same place the rear one is on the carb linkage.
And the rear spring should be straight off the back, to a tab that is in the lower right corner of your pic. It is a small lone metal tab held down with a intake manifold bolt, I do believe??
You can double the springs (a smaller one inside a bigger one) to get the pedal stiffness you like. Meaning with the gas on and then a quicker shut off too.
Some off road and mud bog folks do it to make the pedal not so bouncy with the drivers foot.
As far as your question, NO the front one should be connected to the same place the rear one is on the carb linkage.
And the rear spring should be straight off the back, to a tab that is in the lower right corner of your pic. It is a small lone metal tab held down with a intake manifold bolt, I do believe??
You can double the springs (a smaller one inside a bigger one) to get the pedal stiffness you like. Meaning with the gas on and then a quicker shut off too.
Some off road and mud bog folks do it to make the pedal not so bouncy with the drivers foot.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
From looking at the illustration in the parts catalog, it looks like the spring at the back is correct. The front spring however isn't right. It's connected to the engine correctly but according to the illustration, it doesn't hook to the kickdown arm.
In the illustration it looks like there is another hole on the same arm as the rear spring is hooked to. It is just below the ball joint that the accelerator linkage connects to. It looks like it would be obscured by the linkage in the picture you posted.
In the illustration it looks like there is another hole on the same arm as the rear spring is hooked to. It is just below the ball joint that the accelerator linkage connects to. It looks like it would be obscured by the linkage in the picture you posted.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
What would be the "correct" configuration for a 76 FE with a manual trans? Is the linkage spring on top of the linkage and mounted to a bracket under the coil stud or mounted under the linkage and the spring clipped to a bracket on the manifold?
The reason I'm asking is that I deleted the funky "trapeze" linkages/brackets and can go with either way.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
What would be the "correct" configuration for a 76 FE with a manual trans? Is the linkage spring on top of the linkage and mounted to a bracket under the coil stud or mounted under the linkage and the spring clipped to a bracket on the manifold?
The reason I'm asking is that I deleted the funky "trapeze" linkages/brackets and can go with either way.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2013
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Bumping this one since 74ONE has excellent pics of my exact setup. My question is regarding the yellow kickdown lever in the pics. Mine has a lot of side to side "slop", it moves easily side to side. I actually have to hold it out of the way to adjust the curb idle screw on the carb. Is it supposed to be this loose???
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Bumping this one since 74ONE has excellent pics of my exact setup. My question is regarding the yellow kickdown lever in the pics. Mine has a lot of side to side "slop", it moves easily side to side. I actually have to hold it out of the way to adjust the curb idle screw on the carb. Is it supposed to be this loose???
If the bushing is gone, the entire rod needs to be replaced, Ford never sold the bushings separately.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
The kickdown does have a lot of side to side slop in it. One thing, check the little plastic bushing that's in the throttle end of the kickdown rod. Sometimes they break up and fall out making the linkage's fit even sloppier.
If the bushing is gone, the entire rod needs to be replaced, Ford never sold the bushings separately.
If the bushing is gone, the entire rod needs to be replaced, Ford never sold the bushings separately.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 940
Likes: 4
From: Illinois
Anybody have a pic with rod installed on a Edelbrock 600 CFM? When I changed carb the rod wasnt hooked up. I think I need #1483 kit but not sure. Any pic of rod connected and how to adjust would be great.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
What would be the "correct" configuration for a 76 FE with a manual trans? Is the linkage spring on top of the linkage and mounted to a bracket under the coil stud or mounted under the linkage and the spring clipped to a bracket on the manifold?
The reason I'm asking is that I deleted the funky "trapeze" linkages/brackets and can go with either way.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,797
Likes: 2,599
From: The Shenandoah Valley
The red spring is pulling the kick down forwards until the screw tip hits the tab and the kickdown lever is moved rearwards.
The blue spring returns the throttle to closed.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 940
Likes: 4
From: Illinois
I used the kit Edelbrock sells for 30 bucks and the kick down rod attached exactly where it needed to make it work. Adjusted screw so it engages at WOT and viola its works great. No extension of rod needed.