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My power steering gear box is leaking out the pitman shaft. It's quite annoying since it's the only leak on my truck.
What do I need to know about changing the seals in the box? Am I better off just replacing the lower seal for now instead of tearing down the whole box? If I do tear down the box what do I need to be aware of? The repair books I have don't get into this.
What about a method to remove the seal with the box assembled? Anyone know any tricks? It looks like a PITA. I did a search and came up with the "blow out" method but I doubt that will work for me. I couldn't find any other info in the 15 pages of threads the search brought up.
I've got all the tools I need to get the pitman off. I bought a puller when I did my drop pitman arm. My tool box is stocked to do just about anything but I don't know if there's a special tool needed once you get inside the box. My impact was too weak kneed to get the nut off so I ended up using a breaker bar with a 3" pipe holding the arm. I torqued the nut to spec. so we'l see if the impact does it this time.
laptop, that box looks very nice. What did that run you? I think my box is in pretty good shape except for the leaking. I have mininal play in the steering. Not bad at all for a 25 year old truck. A seal kit is $35 vs. $300+ for a new box. Right now I like the economics of the seal kit much better.
Thanks for the replys guys! Please keep them coming!!
I have seen three gear boxes leak, all at the input shaft. Changing the seals is not hard but you need the shop manual to do it right. I recently got a re-built box for $139 at Autozone. If you go this route, get the ATSCO brand, they have a good reputation.
Hey mudder that seal is fairley simple to replace. What you have to do is make sure the steering wheel is centerd remove pitman arm remove snap ring that holds seal in go to the top of the gearbox remove two bolts that hold shaft in remove shaft by hitting shaft from bottom with brass hammer or piece of wood and hammer once shaft is removed you can go thru the top with long screwdriver or punch andrive seals out instal in reverse order. Sounds like a lot but is fairly simple I have probally done about fifty gearboxes like this with good result hope this helps and just go do it chuck
Thanks Chuck!! That's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. I'm not afraid of pulling the box apart. Getting it back together RIGHT is what I'm concerned about.
Mike, which manual are you referring to? A factory shop manual? I have a Chiltons which I got for the torque spec tables but it mentions nothing about opening the box up. It just has the meshload adjusting teqnique. BTW, thanks for the tip on the ATSCO box.
Mudder the seal kit has the installation instructions in the pack as far as the shaft is concerned you wont change anything because the shaft is one piece the only thing you might need to do is reset the preload on the box wich is done after it is all back together its done with the nut and screw at the top of the box
If you are going to replace the output seal, I would also change the input shaft seal. After replacement you need to adjust the worm bearing preload with a torque wrench. It takes a special tool to attach the torque wrench to the bearing race nut. I couldn't find one so I made one. The factory shop manual shows the whole procedure.
Thanks guys!! I just might have to break down and get one of the CD manuals here on FTE. There probably isn't much else on the truck I haven't been through to need one but it'd be nice to have anyways.
I'm probably going to get into the box this weeekend.
This is a 9yr old thread... However you can search ebay for a "Ford factory service manual" and will get lots of results. Add the year of your truck to narrow the results.